thermostat config

[marcopires]

hi guys,

I bought a brand new thermostat (see picture), to my restaurant refrigerator, but it's not working because won't actuate the valve (see picture, not the same valve but similar).

the temperature is set to +2, I see the compressor dot in the display but the valve stays close.

i'm absolutely sure this issue is the thermostat settings, I want a temperature around 0 to +2, but no matter which temperature I set the valve stays close and no refrigerant passing trough.

which settings I need to change in order to put this to work?

I know the the valve is fine because with other used thermostat works ok but I need it to another refrigerator.
also the wiring connections are correct, there most be something related with the programming.

any help will be just great.

thank you so much.

IDW961

controlador-digital-eliwell-idw961.jpg.png

51YBsAmCyeL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_.jpg

[al]

If the compressor icon is on then there should be power at that terminal of the controller, no power equals faulty controller. If power is there then you have another issue unrelated to the controller.

If you do not know how to test for power please call a repair company

[marcopires]

Maybe you are right, but the controller is brand new and also the probe.
The wiring connections are correct and seems to me that must be something related with the programming, usually this kind of controllers are plug and play, but anyway this one looks like need some programming in order to work properly.

[al]

You said in original post that you can see the dot for the compressor, if this is the case then issue is either wiring or controller has failed.

[marcopires]

hi, thank you for all your help.

the wiring is like this (I know, not a professional job, just for the picture).



edit: this is the old controller, but the wiring is the same.

[Grizzly]

the thing that appears to have changed. Is the valve! Is the new valve spring return or powered return. Because you dont seem to have the option for both power to close or power to open covered. Sorry to be so vague but I don't read what i assume is Chinese.
So i am second guessing the actual wiring needed. But I would compare the new and old valve details!
Grizzly

[Grizzly]

Hi
I just had a quick look at the wiring diagram that I have and terminals 1 and 2 are normally open. (on new models)
So if yours is configured the same and your Icontroller is asking for comp run as Ranger and Al imply.
You should have power at Terminal 2 when comp run is activated.
If you have power on Term 3 then that's the issue (you have wired a new controller as if it were an old style.)
If you have power on term 2 then check your new valve wiring.
Grizzly

[frank]

Move your compressor wire from terminal 2 to terminal 3
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...q19x5eXLWscnV-

[marcopires]

So, by the diagram I must connect the power line to number 1 and 4, then neutral to 5 and 3 and also the compressor wire connected to number 3 and leave the number 2 blank.
It’s that right?
I hope not explode the entire installation lol

[frank]

Not quite.
Live to terminals 1& 4
Neutral to terminal 5
The output (run signal at thermostat 'on') to your compressor is terminal 3
The compressor will also need a neutral
Leave terminal 2 not connected to anything unless you have a crankcase heater

[marcopires]

so guys, this is what I did:

live to 1 and 4, neutral to 5 and compressor output number 3 with the N line, number 2 blank.

with this config the circuit breaker tripped I must say I used the N line for both 5 and 3 and maybe this is the issue, or not......

then I just disconnected the N line from the number 3, and left the compressor line alone.

this seems to work, in fact the compressor kicks fine, but there is an issue: when the probe reaches the set temperature the compressor stops how it should, but when the temperature raises above the selected temperature the compressor dot blink and stays blinking and the compressor never kicks again.

I did this test just touching the probe to raise the temperature right after the compressor stops, I'm not sure if have some delay or waiting time in order to work properly.

there must be something I'm doing wrong.

anyway, I thank you all for the support, much appreciated.

[frank]

Connecting the neutral to terminal 3 will give a direct short between live and neutral at thermostat 'on'.

There is normally a 3 to 5 minute delay between cycles which can be adjusted in the settings

[marcopires]

thanks, so I need to get an N line from another source or keep it this way (compressor line without N line)?

regarding the delay, which setting I need to change?

[frank]

You can take a neutral to the compressor from terminal 5.

I wouldn't change the delay time as this is needed to ensure that pressures equalise. If you try to start the compressor when the discharge pressure is high (as in normal running pressure) and the suction gas pressure is low, the compressor will draw high amps when starting. This may lead to the compressor stalling.

[marcopires]

update:

I manage to solve this with all the help from you guys.
did it like the indications here except the compressor N line, works perfectly well without any neutral line attached to the compressor line.
I'm not sure if there's any N line somewhere attached to the compressor line inside the Jbox, anyway the system now works as it should be.
I changed for a very small bit the compressor delay and everything works like a charm.

I must thank you all so much, this wouldn’t have been possible without your support, such an amazing community.

[frank]

Well done, and thanks for the update