Trouble with a 240v sensor light, ANY1 interested

[mag]

If so and I can post it here?

Well I've been here b4 and you guys work with power too!!

[The Viking]

And the question is??

[mag]

And the question is??

Ah thanks Viking

The problem is it's way to sensitive to other electrical switches and turns itself on if you use other things, I wondered If I could put something in it's power supply to filter it a bit?

Hope I explained my self clearly

[Brian_UK]

If you want a fair answer then give us a fair question..

What sort of sensor switch is it, make, model, sensor etc.

[The Viking]

A thought...

It seems to react on a voltage drop when other equipment is starting up.

Hard to put any filter in for that...(UPS??)

But shouldn't the question be: Why does the voltage drop enough to set this light off?

(Check all the wiring)

[Brian_UK]

And the question is??

AH, the question was - "ANY1 interested?"

Now, to be honest, at a quarter to midnight on a Sunday, no, not extremely but well see how this one goes.

[mag]

A thought...

It seems to react on a voltage drop when other equipment is starting up.

Hard to put any filter in for that...(UPS??)

But shouldn't the question be: Why does the voltage drop enough to set this light off?

(Check all the wiring)

I will get more details later today.

Only other lights are on the same circuit and it's any of them that effect itand power wise the highest wattage would be 100w..

Up the ladder and will take a pic too.

Thanks

[mag]

I will get more details later today.

Only other lights are on the same circuit and it's any of them that effect itand power wise the highest wattage would be 100w..

Up the ladder and will take a pic too.

Thanks

Found this info: You are only allowed to post URLs to other sites after you have made 15 posts or more. well I can't show you after all

[Brian_UK]

Can you type out the url ?

w w w . this site . com

It's a strange problem, you've got us going now

[mag]

Can you type out the url ?

w w w . this site . com

It's a strange problem, you've got us going now

arlec and the au bit too

give that a whirl

[Brian_UK]

You meant "arlec dot com dot au" then ?

http://www.arlec.com.au/display.php?pid=80

[Brian_UK]

I see that the light has manual override which normally means that by flicking the switch in a certain pattern will turn the light on (no comments please).

So, perhaps, it is seeing a pulse down the live feed somehow.

Is all of the wiring secure in that area ?

[mag]

[quote=Brian_UK;109118]You meant "arlec dot com dot au" then ?


Yeah that's what I meant
Thanks Brian

[Electrocoolman]

Check wiring.

Have you got an Earth connection to unit?

Try getting hold of an "X rated capacitor, say 0.1mfd, 250vac working". Connect across live and neutral at supply terminals to unit.

Failing that, you might find suppressor in old washing machine ....normally 3 terminal cylindrical device near to mains lead termination point. One terminal goes to Earth.

Do other lights in house 'dim' when loads are switched on? Poor voltage stability?

[mag]

I see that the light has manual override which normally means that by flicking the switch in a certain pattern will turn the light on (no comments please).

So, perhaps, it is seeing a pulse down the live feed somehow.

Is all of the wiring secure in that area ?

Back again PC Virus So DO NOT open an email with POSTCARD
"So, perhaps, it is seeing a pulse down the live feed somehow." that's what it seems to be reading..

And house was rewired 6ish years ago to then current STD..

[mag]

Check wiring.

Have you got an Earth connection to unit?

Try getting hold of an "X rated capacitor, say 0.1mfd, 250vac working". Connect across live and neutral at supply terminals to unit.

Failing that, you might find suppressor in old washing machine ....normally 3 terminal cylindrical device near to mains lead termination point. One terminal goes to Earth.

Do other lights in house 'dim' when loads are switched on? Poor voltage stability?

Thanks Electrocoolman for joining the post

No earth to our ceiling lights..
Capacitor was my 1st idea but I'm no electrician just a thought from some 3ft fluros I put in my shed have them and hobby's I play with..

I think I have 1 sitting on my bench that would do ( I'll go have a look then) out of my old fridge, it's a SH capacitor 350VAC3.5uF(U) 50Hz 0.38A / 60Hz 0.46A.

No dim lights when loads are switched

[Electrocoolman]

Hi Mag,
Cap you have is really too large in value...3.5uF(mfd) used for small motor run and power factor correction.

Do you have access to RS Components over there in Adelaide / Aus? I'm sure that there are possibly Tandy / Radio Shack or similar?

The small capacitors are used as motor noise suppressors such as vacuum cleaners, electric drills .....motors with brushes.
Good luck.

[mag]

Hi Mag,
Cap you have is really too large in value...3.5uF(mfd) used for small motor run and power factor correction.

Do you have access to RS Components over there in Adelaide / Aus? I'm sure that there are possibly Tandy / Radio Shack or similar?

The small capacitors are used as motor noise suppressors such as vacuum cleaners, electric drills .....motors with brushes.
Good luck.

Too big bugger but no probs yeah Tandys and Radio Shack are here and my most visited store D I C KSmiths Electronics
Thanks It censored the d i c ksmiths

[mag]

Check wiring.

Have you got an Earth connection to unit?

Try getting hold of an "X rated capacitor, say 0.1mfd, 250vac working". Connect across live and neutral at supply terminals to unit.

This looks like the one
Cap Mains Sup 275V DX2 0.01 uF Mains EMI Suppressor 10n/103
Features:

• Metallized Polyester Film in Solvent Resistant UL94-V0 Casing.
• X2 for EMI Suppression, Meets New IEC 384-14 Specification for 2.5kV.
• Peak Pulse Voltage Test and Approved to 3kV Pulse Test.
• Class X is intended for applications where a short circuit will not cause a dangerous shock and is generally connected between each line conductor in a piece of equipment.
• Operating temperature: -40°C to +100°C
• Capacitance tolerance: ±10%
• Rated voltage: 250-275V AC, 50/60Hz
• Dissipation factor: 0.1% maximum at 1kHz 25°C
• Insulation resistance: >30,000Mohm (C<33uF) >10,000Mohm x uF (>33uF) at 25°C
• Dielectric strength: 2000V DC for 1 second
• Self-healing and high moisture resistant
• UL, CSA, VDE, NEMKO, SEMKO, DEMKO, FEMKO, SEV certified.
• CSA and UL Approved with a Voltage Up to 250VAC Only.

Cat No. R2620 Category: Capacitors - High Voltage

I made a mistake it should be this one as the value needed 0.1mfd and I selected 0.01uf so now I am confused
So is there a chart to workout uf to mfd??

Cap Mains Sup 275V DX2 0.1 uF X2 for EMI suppression, meets new IEC 384-14 specification for 2.5kV. Peak Pulse Voltage Test and approved to 3kV Pulse Test. Intended for applications where a short circuit will not cause a dangerous shock. Self-healing and high moisture resistant.
Features:

• Metallized Polyester Film in Solvent Resistant UL94-V0 Casing.
• X2 for EMI Suppression, Meets New IEC 384-14 Specification for 2.5kV.
• Peak Pulse Voltage Test and Approved to 3kV Pulse Test.
• Class X is intended for applications where a short circuit will not cause a dangerous shock and is generally connected between each line conductor in a piece of equipment.
• Operating temperature: -40°C to +100°C
• Capacitance tolerance: ±10%
• Rated voltage: 250-275V AC, 50/60Hz
• Dissipation factor: 0.1% maximum at 1kHz 25°C
• Insulation resistance: >30,000Mohm (C<33uF) >10,000Mohm x uF (>33uF) at 25°C
• Dielectric strength: 2000V DC for 1 second
• Self-healing and high moisture resistant
• UL, CSA, VDE, NEMKO, SEMKO, DEMKO, FEMKO, SEV certified.
• CSA and UL Approved with a Voltage Up to 250VAC Only.

[Brian_UK]

Do you ever wish that you hadn't bought the damned light now ?

[mag]

Do you ever wish that you hadn't bought the damned light now ?

Hey Brian, yeah Hmm I think it might need your treatment
(The whacking the crap out of it)

[Dumb Sparky]

throw it back at the ARLEC toy shop and buy a real one, check the cct neutral as well. and the main neutral.
if the house was rewired 6yrs ago and there is no earth at the light, ring the inspection authority...NOW

[mag]

This looks like the one
Cap Mains Sup 275V DX2 0.01 uF Mains EMI Suppressor 10n/103
Features:

• Metallized Polyester Film in Solvent Resistant UL94-V0 Casing.
• X2 for EMI Suppression, Meets New IEC 384-14 Specification for 2.5kV.
• Peak Pulse Voltage Test and Approved to 3kV Pulse Test.
• Class X is intended for applications where a short circuit will not cause a dangerous shock and is generally connected between each line conductor in a piece of equipment.
• Operating temperature: -40°C to +100°C
• Capacitance tolerance: ±10%
• Rated voltage: 250-275V AC, 50/60Hz
• Dissipation factor: 0.1% maximum at 1kHz 25°C
• Insulation resistance: >30,000Mohm (C<33uF) >10,000Mohm x uF (>33uF) at 25°C
• Dielectric strength: 2000V DC for 1 second
• Self-healing and high moisture resistant
• UL, CSA, VDE, NEMKO, SEMKO, DEMKO, FEMKO, SEV certified.
• CSA and UL Approved with a Voltage Up to 250VAC Only.

Cat No. R2620 Category: Capacitors - High Voltage

I made a mistake it should be this one as the value needed 0.1mfd and I selected 0.01uf so now I am confused
So is there a chart to workout uf to mfd?? It's alright the one below I believe is correct as 0.1mfd is the same as 0.1uf So I'm off to get 1 now...

Cap Mains Sup 275V DX2 0.1 uF X2 for EMI suppression, meets new IEC 384-14 specification for 2.5kV. Peak Pulse Voltage Test and approved to 3kV Pulse Test. Intended for applications where a short circuit will not cause a dangerous shock. Self-healing and high moisture resistant.
Features:

• Metallized Polyester Film in Solvent Resistant UL94-V0 Casing.
• X2 for EMI Suppression, Meets New IEC 384-14 Specification for 2.5kV.
• Peak Pulse Voltage Test and Approved to 3kV Pulse Test.
• Class X is intended for applications where a short circuit will not cause a dangerous shock and is generally connected between each line conductor in a piece of equipment.
• Operating temperature: -40°C to +100°C
• Capacitance tolerance: ±10%
• Rated voltage: 250-275V AC, 50/60Hz
• Dissipation factor: 0.1% maximum at 1kHz 25°C
• Insulation resistance: >30,000Mohm (C<33uF) >10,000Mohm x uF (>33uF) at 25°C
• Dielectric strength: 2000V DC for 1 second
• Self-healing and high moisture resistant
• UL, CSA, VDE, NEMKO, SEMKO, DEMKO, FEMKO, SEV certified.
• CSA and UL Approved with a Voltage Up to 250VAC Only.

I'm going to put my sign on here that I use on other forums (cars) and I'm the one who normally helps them

[mag]

throw it back at the ARLEC toy shop and buy a real one, check the cct neutral as well. and the main neutral.
if the house was rewired 6yrs ago and there is no earth at the light, ring the inspection authority...NOW

Thanks Dumb Sparky, yeah Arlec toy store yes have know other people with their stuff and has failed very quickly and will NOT be buying anymore!!!

Should have earth on normal baton holder?

[mag]

Well I went to get my Cap 0.1mfd and rang 1st and yes we have 14 in stock, Not when I got there as the draw that should of had them was empty But the computer says we have 14 in stock idiots

[Peter_1]

But shouldn't the question be: Why does the voltage drop enough to set this light off?

He said "on"

[Brian_UK]

Sorry Peter, another "lost in translation" expression...


"To set this off" means to get it going, make it work etc.

Similar to the start of a horse race perhaps - "They're off !!"

[Electrocoolman]

Hi Mag,
uF and mfd are the same....both stand for microFarad.

[mag]

Hi Mag,
uF and mfd are the same....both stand for microFarad.

Hi Electrocoolman,

thanks for the info

I'll get that cap this week and will post the result here

[mag]

Hi Electrocoolman,

thanks for the info

I'll get that cap this week and will post the result here

Hey guys just put the Cap in and tested it ah no good doesn't even seem to be any improvement
Arlec Crap

[Brian_UK]

Thanks for the update Mag.

It's time for the Big Hammer I think

[Electrocoolman]

Mag,
one further thought...
you've probably removed the batten lamp holder and wired direct to the wires?

Have you tried swapping the phase and neutral connections to the unit?

....just a thought.