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Thread: Homebrew Question(s)
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18-02-2003, 06:26 PM #1
Homebrew Question(s)
How long will it keep in bottles?
Is there any way to bottle it (two stage?) that will cause the beer to be clear enough to be drank out of the bottle without pouring?
And last but not least... has anyone tried using small keg systems rather than bottling? I know that using a hand pump would be detrimental to the brew (oxidization), but perhaps CO2?
:D
Dean
Subzero*psia
Extinction is simply proof of failure to adapt.
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18-02-2003, 09:09 PM #2How long will it keep in bottles?
Is there any way to bottle it (two stage?) that will cause the beer to be clear enough to be drank out of the bottle without pouring?Prof Sporlan
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18-02-2003, 09:18 PM #3
I've used a five gallon pressure barrel! When you first transfer the Ale from the fermenting bin to the pressure barrel add a little sugar (four or five teaspoons) This causes a secondary fermentation that presurises the barrel. As you drink your ale the pressure will drop and will need repressurising with a little CO2. I'm sorry but I can't comment on how long the brew will last, mine was drunk pretty quickly......and so was I!
Karl
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19-02-2003, 03:19 PM #4
Reading last night...
In the book The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing, Charlie Papazian mentions how to use a Cornelius Keg without sugar for priming to get carbonation... siphon the unprimed finished beer out of the fermenter into the keg and chill to below 40 degrees F, seal it off and add 25 to 30 psig CO2.... shake the keg vigorously for 5 to 10 minutes which mixes the CO2 and carbonates the beer... let the beer set for 2 to 3 day so the C02 dissolves completely into the beer.... and Wallah! Sediment Free, artificially carbonated draft beer!
( Me thinks shaking 5 gallons of beer plus the weight of the keg might wear a FEW people out! Especially if they have been tipping a few? ):D
Dean
Subzero*psia
Extinction is simply proof of failure to adapt.
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19-02-2003, 04:11 PM #5shake the keg vigorously for 5 to 10 minutes which mixes the CO2 and carbonates the beer...Prof Sporlan
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19-02-2003, 06:55 PM #6
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Originally posted by Prof Sporlan
Isn't this part of an iron man competition?
LOL
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20-02-2003, 01:43 AM #7
Here is a thought.... if you have CO2 and the means to control the pressure in the keg.... why not just prime it with a 1/2c of corn sugar and use the CO2 system for dispensing it anyway? According to "The Book" only the first mug or so will have any sediment... after that its all clear beer.
"Thinking VERY strongly on getting a keg... or Two perhaps... "
And here is a link if anybody in the states is interested in getting a keg.... I'll see if I can find another which offers to ship overseas.
5 gal. kegs on auction
FOUND one, here is the link.
Ships Internationally:D
Dean
Subzero*psia
Extinction is simply proof of failure to adapt.
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20-02-2003, 03:04 AM #8Here is a thought.... if you have CO2 and the means to control the pressure in the keg.... why not just prime it with a 1/2c of corn sugar and use the CO2 system for dispensing it anyway?
"Thinking VERY strongly on getting a keg... or Two perhaps... "Prof Sporlan
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20-02-2003, 03:25 AM #9
Are any of you familiar with mash tuns and RIMS? I'm wondering about it.... I've never seen one other than online, I understand the basic concept of it and I don't think it is 'rocket science' but some of the designers go all out using apparently expensive components to get the job done. Maybe I am wrong... does $1000.00 sound like a lot of money if you are building it yourself? I've seen digital temperature controls that are +/- .5 degree (F) that retail for under $100.00 and aside from the pump system it doesn't appear to require anything too elaborate. What is your take on it?
:D
Dean
Subzero*psia
Extinction is simply proof of failure to adapt.
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10-03-2003, 02:06 PM #10
Subzero,
I've been brewing for about 7 years and kegging for about 4-5. I don't add priming sugar to the keg unless I'm going to fill some bottles from it. If you add sugar, it will work fine, but it will leave more sediment compared to force carbing it. You do not have to shake a keg to carbonate it. I normally hit mine with about 30 psi and let it sit a few days. I will then maintain it at around 10-15 psi when I put it in the fridge.
As for HERMS and RIMS they are pretty similar. A HERMS system uses a coil immersed in a hot liquid to transfer the heat, while a RIMS has a heat element in a tube to heat the liquid. I do not use any controls other than my hands to operate ball valves, burners and the pump. Some people get pretty fancy and that's what makes this hobby fun for some.
Check out my webpage, www.pressenter.com/~snorthu and click on the brewery link. Drop me a line if you have any questions.
Norty
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17-03-2003, 05:16 AM #11
Now that is a cool set-up Norty!! I think you may have added fuel to the fire, at least in my case..... especially since the system is self sanitizing! (almost...)
:D
Dean
Subzero*psia
Extinction is simply proof of failure to adapt.
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17-03-2003, 02:03 PM #12
Thanks!
Yah, pretty much self-sanitizing...boiling water does wonders. I just rinse out the lines after a brew session with warm water and I'm ready for the next session. Matter of fact, I just brewed a Bock yesterday.
About every 4-5 batches I run some cleaner and hot water through all the lines for about 1/2 hr and that keeps it nice and clean.
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15-04-2003, 10:47 PM #13
The Prof is currently in the fermenting stage of what he hopes to be his "heaviest" stout to date... one based on Papazian's dark sleep stout. Actually, he would have followed the recipe to the letter, but his supply of black patent malt was a bit light, and he had plenty of chocolate malt to substitute... And being a bit aggressive with the boiling hops... who knows, the Prof may yet concoct a brew sufficient to impress Arthur Guinness
Specific gravity fell right into specification. All is going well so far...Prof Sporlan
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