GE fridge SS GSL25JFPA BS damper keeps closing while compressor runs.

Hi everyone,
Came to a customer which told me some time ago a technician replaced control board, thermistor and freezer fan. After plugging it in it runs, damper opens and after maybe 4-5 hours damper closes while compressor is running so I get only about 50-60F in the fridge section. Technician gave up on it even he got compensated plus parts. Not sure really in what moment the damper closes and if compressor really runs when it happens but each time I go to check the compressor runs and damper is closed.

I discovered wrong freezer fan motor they installed, they installed condenser motor with different voltage and perhaps wrong direction of spin, fan blade was too small so they broke the original and put there blade from smaller fridge.

So I installed original fan motor and blade, changed all thermistors, refurbished a control board I got from e-bay for parts and fridge runs same way as with the newish board they installed, replaced intermittent freezer and fridge door switches and damper. I checked OK for 120V signal when doors open on J76 and 7. Doors closed - no 120V.

Damper closes again after some hours running so I am stuck. It looks like it is in the Liner Protection Mode but door switches work/new so I took the fridge home for private investigation before doing these aforementioned additional replacements. I brought the customer temporary fridge which sits in garage as spare fridge. I could give up but I don't want to, too stubborn.

The control board or these door switches/wiring/connectors/damper causing to open or close when compressor "ON" or something intermittent is I think the only-thing can go wrong? I don't know at what moment or condition the damper in reality closes short of hooking some led diodes as a monitoring system. I forgot to check if damper circuit contains a relay but with that small milliamps it should not have a relay plus damper is marked as 12V DC so I have to check what's coming from the board but damper opens normally.

Murphy law that I got a board or damper from e-bay with same issue? Is there somewhere GE at least "generic schematics" of the board controller so I could check where and what goes in and out? I know that the 120V from door switches end up at 2 opto-couplers on the board and didn't have a time yet to continue - schematic is much easier.

Thanks.

I fixed the issue by cutting wire #2 on the bottom of connector J7 if I remember it correctly. Some of these new boards require to cut the related connector wire otherwise the damper will close too soon.