P.S. the Condenser is mighty close to that wall:eek:
Printable View
P.S. the Condenser is mighty close to that wall:eek:
Well when it behaves, it puts this room on ice, so far I've seen the room go from 23*c to 18*c in about 30 or 40 minutes :)
From calling Mitsi tech support, they've said that the threshold temperature for the fan running on the outdoor unit is 17*c ambient outside, I asked if reduced cooling is normal and they said yes. I've found that if you run the unit to capacity in this state, it achieves no cooling at all, if you set the setpoint closer to the room temp, the compressor then slows down and the indoor unit blows a minimal amount of cold air, still enough to hold the temperature in the room.
What rattles my cage is the fact that you can hit the emergency operation switch on the indoor unit, which runs a flat out test for 30 mins, and the unit cools perfectly, albeit with no temperature control. If its capable of cooling with a low outside temperature then why have they designed it to behave poorly it would seem? - it's got me :confused:
Condenser close to the wall? nope :) - it appears so because of the panorama's warping of the picture, and the fact that the brackets are overkill in their size accommodation, there's a good 20cm of clearance behind the unit :)
A small update...
I've been e-mailing a tech at Mitsubishi who gave me a modification to make to the outdoor unit, a simple one, disconnect a solenoid valve which short cycles the outdoor unit, reduces head pressure and keeps fan noise to a minimum as a result, I'm not exactly sure what the purpose of this valve is for as the tech says it only energises when the outside ambient is < 17*c.
In his words:
I carried out the modification and it's working perfectly as I type, pinning the room temperature at the setpoint.Quote:
Effectively the valve is an unloader and causes the the system to run short cycle around the outdoor unit.
Result! :cool: :cool: :cool:
Don't make me get a ruler out and take a photo showing the distance! :D
The brackets are overkillingly long for the unit, so gives the appearance that it's pushed up against the wall.
Thanks for the thread electo, made quite a nice read.
I have a Fuji split 18k btu and an LG split 13k btu here that I have to install and get an AC guy I know to come do the flaring and gassing on once they are ready, lets hope I dont have your sort of problem.
I have a Fuji 18k btu through the window type rattler in my workshop/office that I fitted some months ago and apart from the really high (40 odd amps) start current on the compressor I am really pleased with that.
Hi there dave
The pipe work in its self is not too demanding. The 14 Metre straight up pipe run is something else again, unless you are an alpinest? I would suggest you run the pipe work and the power supply in uv friendly P.V.C. ducting. Like the man said be sure that your insulation is sealed from moisture. Oh and take your hand off your heart and get the job done professionally, in the long run it will prove to be cheaper and a lot safer.
Good luck.
Sid
good luck!!!
hmm, nice trunking in your room. did u ask for that? y not go out the back? = zero trunking.
You should remove all the goodies below the unit. When changing to heating, the goodies will cause short cycling as the warm air should be aimed at the floor at a slight angle to the wall. Leaving it in the horizontal will also cause short cycling. Think and enjoy!
hi guys
i m asking about how to install pipes for a simple split unit if any one can help