Advice On Cylinder For Ecodan

Hi there, I 'm not an engineer so apologies in advance for lack of technical knowledge. I want to install a Mitsu Ecodan but due to lack of space would have to located the Kingspan cylinder in a cupboard off a conservatory. Problem is the conservatory is used all the time and the continuos noise from the pumps may irritate. Just wondered if there was an alternative to the Kingspan which would allow us to locate the cylinder in the cupboard but have the pumps in the kitchen where our combi boiler currently resides (its boxed in). Is this possible? Any advice appreciated.

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Originally Posted by clc5

Hi there, I 'm not an engineer so apologies in advance for lack of technical knowledge. I want to install a Mitsu Ecodan but due to lack of space would have to located the Kingspan cylinder in a cupboard off a conservatory. Problem is the conservatory is used all the time and the continuos noise from the pumps may irritate. Just wondered if there was an alternative to the Kingspan which would allow us to locate the cylinder in the cupboard but have the pumps in the kitchen where our combi boiler currently resides (its boxed in). Is this possible? Any advice appreciated.

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Forgot to say, the boiler will be removed and the distance from boiler housing to cons cupboard is about 10 feet.

If you buy the Ecodan standalone system then you can locate all the other ancilleries wherever is most convieniant such as in the kitchen cupboard as you suggest. The cylinder specifications as reccomended by Mitsubishi are listed in the FTC2 manual which can be downloaded via the installers section of their Ecodan website.

Why do you want to install an Ecodan if you have gas?? do run on LPG?? A new combi boiler with good quality controls including weather compensation will be cheaper to run than an ecodan if you have Natural gas. Even with LPG a new combi well set up will work out not much more expensive than the Ecodan. Im not trying to be negative about the ecodan just interested in your reasoning.

A good point made by Corradokid, there is certainly more margin for error with the design of a gas based system and the kit and installation price will be cheaper. I would disagree the Ecodan being more expensive to run, this is supported by independant and manufacturer field trials. However a badly designed and/or installed ASHP system of any type will cost more to run than a modern high efficiency gas boiler. If you take the RHI into account (for which a 100% fossil fuel based systems such as natural gas will pay for by higher fuel prices) then renewable heating systems such as Ecodan win hands down in terms of running costs, in some cases people will be able heat their homes for free using this incentive going by what is stated in the consultation document.

Thanks for the replies. I was originally going to replace my old G rated combi with a modern one but after reading about the RHI Scheme I thought an ASHP would be a better long term investment. Based on what I've read in the RHI consultation document I estimate my RHI payments would be around £800-£1000 per annum for 18 years. As I'm in Scotland I can also get 30% grant against the purchase cost of the ASHP system plus an 8 year interest free loan. Financially it seems a sensible to go for the ASHP.

change of question --but on same lines
Ihave a house 1000sqft floor area --with underfloor heating --usesa 300litre VERY well insulated tank--triple coils
underfloor ,solar ,hot water coil
the boiler i wish to replace is an ancient but reliable baxi bermuda lpg
so heres the question what size heat pump to replace a modern 20-28kw gas boiler
house is insulated to death built 1979 woodframed

should have said parent volume of tank is heated by baxi--but will be by heat pump

Using a w/m2 value this is far too basic and leaves too much to chance due to the effect the building elements U values have on this figure and the proportional surface area of all these elements, this also does not take into account the variations in ventilation losses and leaves the installer to guess the heat loss co-efficient for each property surveyed. Needless to say this approach will promote mis-sizing of systems which in turn can lead to poor performance. If you then use this rule to size radiators in the given property based on individual room losses no doubt the radiators will be over/under sized also which means the two most important parts of the system design are wrong, there needs to be more detail. Dont use this excel sheet, it appears to be a poor copy of the Mitsi sheet which has got around the difficult building physics by simply applying a W/m2 figure. Using government approved SAP2005 shows new builds can vary from as low as 20W/m2 to 50W/m2. some poorly insulated houses can be as bad as 120W/m2 and there are many inbetween depending on the large amount of variables.

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Originally Posted by Oakgreen16v

Using a w/m2 value this is far too basic and leaves too much to chance due to the effect the building elements U values have on this figure and the proportional surface area of all these elements, this also does not take into account the variations in ventilation losses and leaves the installer to guess the heat loss co-efficient for each property surveyed. Needless to say this approach will promote mis-sizing of systems which in turn can lead to poor performance. If you then use this rule to size radiators in the given property based on individual room losses no doubt the radiators will be over/under sized also which means the two most important parts of the system design are wrong, there needs to be more detail. Dont use this excel sheet, it appears to be a poor copy of the Mitsi sheet which has got around the difficult building physics by simply applying a W/m2 figure. Using government approved SAP2005 shows new builds can vary from as low as 20W/m2 to 50W/m2. some poorly insulated houses can be as bad as 120W/m2 and there are many inbetween depending on the large amount of variables.

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Thanks so much for some very useful information. :)

We have just completed an installation the underfloor heating was calculated at 40w/m2 by upanor although it must be noted that some of the pipework was laid at 150mm centres to compensate for the lower flow temperatures,so if it was originally designed for higher flow temperatures you may find that your immersion heaters kick in when its really cold reducing your efficiency.do you have the original floor calcs can you speak to the person who originally specd the system? they may be able to advise you.

hope this helps

Dave.