Thermo king 1997 md-2 sr electrical diagram and controller help

[04colyZQ8]

Hi I’m from bc I just joined the forum:) I bought a 97 gmc topkick to move to Ontario. It has a md2 sr refer, on it. I’m trying to get it going so I can either part it out or sell it as I don’t need a reefer unit. The yanmar tk3.74 was seized, so was the Compresor. I removed the belts broke the compressor free by hand turning the pulley. Broke the diesel free by removing the glow plugs and soaking it over night with wd-40. I then used a crow bar in the ring gear. I got wired the shut off solenoid and the glow plugs, fuel pump, and starter solenoid and fired up the diesel it runs good now!

I accidentally fired the shut off solenoid by constantly apply power to the hold and pull in coils. Oops it was because it didn’t start I left power on! Now I removed the solenoid it fires up, when i want to shut it off just push in the lever with my finger. Until I find a new solenoid.

The in cab controller is completely missing! Just a 4pin plug. Can I bypass this and run straight from the control box on the reefer? Anyone no what controller it needs? What does it look like?

The door switches are broken for the van box can I wire them out for now?

There are a few traces on the control board that are shorted or burned. I would love a electrical diagram to trace and repair the electrical system.

Can I run it it hot wired? Ate there anything that needed to be hot wired on the compressor side? I want to hook up my gauge set and see if there is sufficient refrigerant in the unit or not? R404 what pressure should I see? Will by automotive gauge set work? Are the connections the same as r12?

Looks like all fans are belt driven so I thing unless there is a electrical refigerent valve that needs to be opened it should run hot wired? With risk of ice over? Maybe limit run time to 15-20min for now?

How to check pump oil? Level?

Thanks Jamie

[04colyZQ8]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utbiDxY6YfQ

Got the compressor turning along with the diesel! Low side only 15psi high side 150psi oil half way sight glass after 15min. ambient temp outside 3c or 36f. is that ok? Seems like it needs more 404a? Anyone have a chart for ambient temp verses high and low side temps for R404A and a X214 compressor?

Looking for a used controller 45-1866 or part number 451866. Anyone have one?

I have a manual that I got from the dealer for free! If I can post it somehow I would, not sure on the rules for that? I will email it to anyone who asks. Thanks -Jamie

[04colyZQ8]

For anyone else trying to hot wire the unit;

-Step One remove fuel shut off solenoid two bolts.

-Step Two run a jumper wire from the hot terminal near the oil drain to the far right terminal lug has fuel pump picture above it, this will energize the fuel pump.

-Step Three run a jumper from the hot terminal near the oil drain left side of solenoid, two the top of one of the glow plugs. Touch the wire to energize glow plugs for 30seconds max then release.

-Step Four unplug starter solenoid jumper near starter clip a jumper wire from there, run to the hot terminal on the side were the oil drain is, left side of solenoid constant hot. As soon as you here it start remove the wire or you will ruin the starter.

Important in order to shut it off you will need to either remove the air filter duck and smother the inlet pipe with a larger piece of thick card board. Or reach your finger up into the injection pump and push the lever to the front of the motor, until it shuts off.

There is nothing on the compressor that is electric that needs to be jumped to run it for a few minutes. All the fans are belt driven.

Note that if the refrigerant levels are low or the compressor levels are low you run the risk of seizing the compressor as the safety switches for head temp, and high low pressures are not going to shut down the unit. Also be sure the motor oil level, and coolant levels are up, as their switches also won't shut down the unit.\

Interesting points to consider;

-motor has clutch doesn't engage until 600rpm.
-can't read high or low side pressure until you crack the inlet and outlet vavles off their fully back seated (threaded out) positions.

To crack off the low side valve, first connect a gauge manifold set both gauges shut, large diameter pipe and larger valve is the low side. remove the small cap, thread on hose Connection type R12/404a blue hose. Then remove the large cap, and tighten the service valve under the cap a 1/4 turn, you should now see system pressure low side.

To crack off the high side valve, first connect a gauge manifold set both gauges shut, small diameter pipe and smaller valve is the low side. remove the small cap, thread on hose Connection type R12/404a red hose. Then remove the large cap, and tighten the service valve under the cap a 1/4 turn, you should now see system pressure high side.

Under no circumstances should you fully front seat (tighten down fully) the high side valve, and then run the system, you will have explosive results!!