Indoor fan continuous - daikin

[fridge doctor]

Hi everyone and happy new year,

I have a 5 year old Daikin FTYN25DAV3B. The indoor fan runs all the time as soon as power is applied. The remote opens the flaps and operates the compressor etc, but the fan is always on.

Looks to me like the fan relay (on the indoor PCB) has welded contacts to make it do this? Does anyone have an opinion please... Could it be the coil sensor?

Regards, Trevor

[install monkey]

relay welded, its soldered onto the board and can be swapped,its cheaper than buying a new indoor pcb or alternativly unplug the swing louvre motor and set the flap in its operating position to prevent overheating the indoor fan motor and let it run.

[fridge doctor]

Thanks I.M. Although disconnecting the flap is a good idea, can't be done here because customer is using it in heat mode. I inspected the board quite closely, but it isn't obvious which relay is the fan, although one is quite close to the capacitor and the fan mains out>. Anyone got a diagram or know where I can get one (link).
Thanks.

[install monkey]

u have e mail

[SeanB]

Smaller one is generally the fan. Just be aware that quite a few controllers now use a triac to control the fan, and this can go short circuit and run the motor at full speed all the time. easy to replace if you are experienced, but most cowboys replace the board. It can be killed by a mains surge, a faulty motor or a failing capacitor. The replacement is around $5, the labour to change it is a lot more.

[fridge doctor]

Hi,

Thanks Sean - Re Triac, I have checked that the fan will change speeds and it does. So assuming it is a relay, I know the relay will be smaller than for example the compressor relay, but there appears to be at least 3 smaller relays on the board.

Install Monkey... Sorry I have no PM's and nothing in my email (am Friday 30th). Thanks all.

[assailant]

but most cowboys replace the board.

now there is some classic trolling if ever i saw it.

replacing boards due to faulty components isnt 'cowboy', its prudent.

[stufus]

Smaller one is generally the fan. Just be aware that quite a few controllers now use a triac to control the fan, and this can go short circuit and run the motor at full speed all the time. easy to replace if you are experienced, but most cowboys replace the board. It can be killed by a mains surge, a faulty motor or a failing capacitor. The replacement is around $5, the labour to change it is a lot more.

HOWDY PARTNER

If you've got the time to faff about changing Pcb components ,and customers willing to pay the labour charges for it ,well done you...
It takes 5mins to replace the board and all components on the board are new .
Before you ask! yes I would consider changing components but only as a stop gap if a new part was not readily available.But it would be replaced eventually.
So saddle up your pony and ride into the sunset there John Wayne.
Cheers
Stu

[paul_h]

Bit harsh from all of yous. I realise seanB is in africa so maybe would cost a lot more to get parts, likewise some others in asia and eastern europe. So repairing PCBs could be the name of the game there due to long waits, PCB and high freight charges.


I repair PCBs all the time, and it saves money. You just have to know what is repairable and what is not. I normally do this for three reasons. i) I'd like to complete the job on the day and get paid that day. Not spend unpaid time ordering parts and driving back on site maybe weeks later. ii) Unfortunately a lot of cheap no name brands here with no spare parts or ridiculous parts, freight cost or wait times. iii) lots of brands I learn the common failures, common parts so them I'll spend a few dollars on for spare parts.

Some examples:
Mits or fujitsu IR receiver fault. Piss easy, just get a couple of sharp or pana receivers and a couple of spare capacitors and solder in. Job done. Carrier or kelvinator/LG receiver faults, don't bother, order new PCBs!

Older fujitsu ducted or cassette comms error. You can't buy the PCBs anymore. Bad luck telling the customer you can fix it, you just wasted your time. Alternatively, carry around a $2 2200uF 35V capacitor and replace 'c10'. Charge whatever you like, win for both you and them.

Crapy chinese split with indoor pcb comp relay welded. Solder in a new one rather than waste everyones time when you find you can't buy parts.

Diode bridge fail in fuji, chigo, sharp inverter or whatever. They fail all the time, just solder in a new one, nothing wrong with the rest of the expensive PCB normally.

Breezeair evap cooler fan control bunk. Pay $400 for a new controll system or give it a go soldering in a new TRIAC for $6?

Can't always repair, sometimes not worth it, sometimes a new PCB is easy and cheap to get.
But on the other hand, some repairs are better for me to do (less time wasted in getting and returning on site with the parts), and for some common problems I'm happy to go that route.
For others, not worth the time trying it, ie just as much wasted time in me working out what part I need, getting that, and then coming back to try something they may not work anyway.
So whatever I already know, whatever parts I already keep in stock, I will do a PCB repair on.
My stock builds more if I come across a brand/model that is hard to get parts for and I end up PERMANENTLY repairing it if it's quicker and even with extra labour it ends up cheaper. Then it's just one more think I know more than any others out there that can only just replace PCBs only

Same goes for carrying around thermal fuses, crimps and heatshrink, Just make your own and repair on the spot, or carrying generic relays, capacitors, soft starters controllers, timers and contactors.
I wast enough time driving to get parts/return to the job, and on the phone etc buying OEM parts like PCBs. I try to cut that down as much as possible and like to fix things same day to get paid.

[install monkey]

trev in ur yahoo acc, resent it anyway

Hi,

Thanks Sean - Re Triac, I have checked that the fan will change speeds and it does. So assuming it is a relay, I know the relay will be smaller than for example the compressor relay, but there appears to be at least 3 smaller relays on the board.

Install Monkey... Sorry I have no PM's and nothing in my email (am Friday 30th). Thanks all.

[SeanB]

3 small relays, probably all related to fan then. Easiest is to change them all ( If I order the smaller relays from RS then I have to buy 5 anyway, or pay for courier charges) and then be done. Otherwise look up the part number on the relay, find a pinout and then use that to check the contacts for being short when they should be open. Normally 2 pins on one end ( with a small diode across them pretty close by, and with thin tracks) is the coil, and the thick traces will be power end. Use multimeter on ohms range across them with the board disconnected and out of the unit. There will most likely be 3 pins, but only 2 connected to traces for a relay doing power on off switching. If there is continuity between these with the power off the relay is faulty. If all 3 are connected then it is a relay providing speed control to the fan. One of the relays could be driving a reverse valve on a heat pump, or the condenser fan.

As to repairing PCB's, some are available and cheap. others are nearly the cost of a new unit and some come with the complete new aircon unit attached. If there is a simple fault then repair is definitely on, especially if it is something like a faulty cap ( getting a few these days, so the 2uF 450V units are now spares, plus they do ceiling fans as well) and it is late afternoon before a public holiday. Replacement remotes are the same, but at least you can get a universal aircon remote that works with many brands.

[fridge doctor]

Sorry I.M. still nothing.... Can I ask you to try another email address please. coolercooling@hotmail.com much appreciated. Happy New Year.. Trevor

[install monkey]

its done- 11.1meg file
https://rapidshare.com/files/2526889016/ftyn35c_d.pdf

[fridge doctor]

Thanks I.M. I have got it now, that's very good of you. The board on the drawing looks similar but I can't be sure because I had to leave it in place and operating. I see though that the manual is for the FTYN35, whereas mine is the 25... Do you have a link to the Daikin site by any chance.

Cheers.

[install monkey]

http://www.daikin.co.uk/Extranet_Registration/default.jsp
you need to register-its free but takes about 2days

[fridge doctor]

Sorry to drag this one up again guys - only just got around to sorting it... Basically, I have got the PCB out and checked the following. All 3 relays for short circuit...they're all OK. Also checked emergency switch in case that was shorted but that is OK too. I have not been able to get to the outdoor unit, does anybody know if there is a PCB outside? there is no mention of one in the tech spec...
Thing is, a new board will cost me £260, and I am not willing to take a chance because I've had this before and won't do it again unless 100% positive.

Thanks.