What rods?

[devlin maguire]

I was doing a quick check the other day and I was putting a list of stuff I need together, Fan motors, LTV,s etc, and I am almost out of brazing rods, and this happens each and every time, the label which is inside the poly pack gets lost so the conversation goes like this "and a pack of brazing rods as well" "what kind ?" "er um well they come in a poly pack with a red and white label" "silver solder ? what % silver ? "I think they are phos bronze or sil bronz" "Hold on" asks another guy in the suppliers, "The most used by others is", and he tells me and I say" yeah thats them" So to prevent me looking like a complete plonker this time what is the best all round rod that will do most copper to copper and the odd ferous to copper, years back I used to get them from a local independant one shop guy 4% silver I think and a flux for ferous work
Devlin

[cadwaladr]

the type i use are marketed by turbotorch the part number on the box is 0386-0421 viper sf1 guess silflow? good for copper/copper no flux obviously flux has to be used for ferous hope this helps

[devlin maguire]

Silflow sounds familiar I will google it and thanks
Devlin

[chillerman2006]

Hi Devlin

Copper rod's 4 copper/copper - cheaper than silver solder rods

high silver content (any fluxed or fluxless) 4 diss-similar metals - no cheapies

R's chillerman

[monkey spanners]

Hi Devlin,

For copper to copper i use rothenberger S2 rods, come in a square card tube.

For copper to driers or sight glasses i use a 5% silver rod by johnson matthey, in a blue/clear plastic pack.

For copper to expansion valves and compressor stubs (coppery ones) i use 15% rods by johnson matthey, same blue/clear plastic pack.

These are all used without flux.

For copper to steel or brass, i use 38% silver rods again by JM either flux coated or with a pot of flux, same blue/clear pack.

These are all from Climate center. I write on the pack with a permanent marker what they are as i've had the labels come off too!

Finally for copper to stainless i have some 56% silver rods and special flux i got from a specialist welding co.

Jon :)

[chillerman2006]

Hi Devlin,

For copper to copper i use rothenberger S2 rods, come in a square card tube.

For copper to driers or sight glasses i use a 5% silver rod by johnson matthey, in a blue/clear plastic pack.

For copper to expansion valves and compressor stubs (coppery ones) i use 15% rods by johnson matthey, same blue/clear plastic pack.

These are all used without flux.

For copper to steel or brass, i use 38% silver rods again by JM either flux coated or with a pot of flux, same blue/clear pack.

These are all from Climate center. I write on the pack with a permanent marker what they are as i've had the labels come off too!

Finally for copper to stainless i have some 56% silver rods and special flux i got from a specialist welding co.

Jon :)

Evening monkey spanners

I just have to have everything tools, sundries & anything else if I can

Was just wondering where you get your rods for stainless, not seen them before + not far from you

R's chillerman

[james10]

Hi Devlin,

For copper to copper i use rothenberger S2 rods, come in a square card tube.

For copper to driers or sight glasses i use a 5% silver rod by johnson matthey, in a blue/clear plastic pack.

For copper to expansion valves and compressor stubs (coppery ones) i use 15% rods by johnson matthey, same blue/clear plastic pack.

These are all used without flux.

For copper to steel or brass, i use 38% silver rods again by JM either flux coated or with a pot of flux, same blue/clear pack.

These are all from Climate center. I write on the pack with a permanent marker what they are as i've had the labels come off too!

Finally for copper to stainless i have some 56% silver rods and special flux i got from a specialist welding co.

Jon :)
Have you been looking in the back of my van Jon?:):)

[monkey spanners]

Evening monkey spanners

I just have to have everything tools, sundries & anything else if I can

Was just wondering where you get your rods for stainless, not seen them before + not far from you

R's chillerman

I'll have a look and see where i got them from tomorrow :)

[chillerman2006]

I'll have a look and see where i got them from tomorrow :)

Cheers mate, I'm MK & nothing round here apart from - no refrigeration spares

[monkey spanners]

Have you been looking in the back of my van Jon?:):)

*tries to look nonchalant, hums tune.....:D

[mikeref]

*tries to look nonchalant, hums tune.....:D
hi Jon, copper to stainless, YUK! 45% here called blue tip silver does thoes horrible jobs. And Devlin, just cover your behind by grabbing a number of each kind and making an assortment pack. We have individual sticks that are coloured on the ends.

[chillerman2006]

hi Jon, copper to stainless, YUK! 45% here called blue tip silver does thoes horrible jobs. .

Evening Mike

YUK! thats what I had to learn on copper tube to stainless vibrosorbers, half way up a ladder, transport refrigeration days, talk about learn the hard way, haha :D

[mikeref]

Evening Mike

YUK! thats what I had to learn on copper tube to stainless vibrosorbers, half way up a ladder, transport refrigeration days, talk about learn the hard way, haha :D
Morning C.M. Aluminium brazing has to be the worst, had to fix a condenser on an ambulance as they couldn't go without a/c and replacement was a week away. Thin tubing, double yuk!!

[chillerman2006]

Morning C.M. Aluminium brazing has to be the worst, had to fix a condenser on an ambulance as they couldn't go without a/c and replacement was a week away. Thin tubing, double yuk!!

Never done aluminium, you say brazing, can it be done with a lamp then ?

A friend does tig welding, I understand its a bit of an art, or so he leads me to believe :)

[mikeref]

Very fiddly C.M. Not something you want to specialise in. Done with oxy/acet and small coolish flame. NEVER let flame hover over the aluminium as material just collapses without warning:rolleyes:, gulp! And a few choice words to follow.. Mike.

[chillerman2006]

Very fiddly C.M. Not something you want to specialise in. Done with oxy/acet and small coolish flame. NEVER let flame hover over the aluminium as material just collapses without warning:rolleyes:, gulp! And a few choice words to follow.. Mike.

Oops! I can imagine, if asked to do it ever, I will tell them its at there risk not mine, thanks for the heads up, mate

[devlin maguire]

Cheers all very infomative Jon, there is a Climate Centre in Glasgow so I will phone them but usually everything I want is at the "hub" ??
Devlin

[monkey spanners]

Cheers mate, I'm MK & nothing round here apart from - no refrigeration spares

These are the people,

http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/

The 56% rods for stainless i got were too thin so ended up twisting two together for 22mm to 7/8" joints on a heat recovery thing i connected up for the milking parlour guys.

They do different diameter ones so i should have got 2mm ones instead. I mix the special flux up into a paste with water, you need to really clean the stainless, i use a stainless wire brush in a grinder (normal steel ones will leave depostis that can cause rust) and use a propane bottle on the turbo torch, oxy ac is way too hot. If you get the stainless too hot it seems to tarnish and you have to clean it again before you can get it to stick, just runs round like you've got no flux on it.

As others have said, if you can avoid doing copper to stainless do, i had a couple leaking on a fabdec tank last week, 7/8" and up hill too, took nearly all day to sort them both out and it still wasn't pretty when i'd finished....

Used to get called to a few farms up your way near Woburn when their local guy was busy or on holiday etc, not been up that way for 6 months at least. Got stuck for a fan motor up there and had to go to Reading as it was the nearest place with one!

Jon :)

[chillerman2006]

These are the people,

http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/

The 56% rods for stainless i got were too thin so ended up twisting two together for 22mm to 7/8" joints on a heat recovery thing i connected up for the milking parlour guys.

They do different diameter ones so i should have got 2mm ones instead. I mix the special flux up into a paste with water, you need to really clean the stainless, i use a stainless wire brush in a grinder (normal steel ones will leave depostis that can cause rust) and use a propane bottle on the turbo torch, oxy ac is way too hot. If you get the stainless too hot it seems to tarnish and you have to clean it again before you can get it to stick, just runs round like you've got no flux on it.

As others have said, if you can avoid doing copper to stainless do, i had a couple leaking on a fabdec tank last week, 7/8" and up hill too, took nearly all day to sort them both out and it still wasn't pretty when i'd finished....

Used to get called to a few farms up your way near Woburn when their local guy was busy or on holiday etc, not been up that way for 6 months at least. Got stuck for a fan motor up there and had to go to Reading as it was the nearest place with one!

Jon :)

Top Man

Thanks for link & heads up

yeah it's a joke round here for fridge parts/spares

:off topic:i have same problem with my motocross, have to travel miles for spares

cheers chillerman