Tk Ts 500 Code 63

[Jaywalker]

I have no clue as to why the engine stops. It will run on continuous or cycle for hours and then just stop. The only code is 63. I have changed the rpm sensor. I have changed the fuel filter twice. It has new oil and filters. New air filter. The engine has a new waterpump new thermostat and coolant hoses. I installed a new fuel solenoid on the injector pump. The engine is not overheating. there are no fluid leaks. The refrigerant charge is good. I have replaced the run relay. I can send the truck on a 250 mile road trip. It will stay running and then the next day it will just stop and give the code 63. Any suggestions anyone may have I am open to trying. Thanyou.

[Robert Hilton]

Electric fuel pump
Tank not venting correctly (pulling vacuum)
Fuel line blockage

A few thoughts off the top of my head

[moggy66]

fuel solinoid?

[Jaywalker]

The Fuel Solenoid is new I changed thinking maybe the hold curcuit in it might be bad or getting hot over a long period of time. It did not resolve the problem. The fuel comes from 1 of the trucks fuel tanks and the truck runs good. If the truck was running poorly I would also suspect the Tank venting as well. I will investigate that and check and make sure that its not obstructed in some way. What baffles me about the fuel pump is that it runs, the screen inside is clean. While the TK unit is running the fuel pump bowl is about !/2 to 2/3 full. My understanding is that It should be pumping at 8 to 10 pounds of pressure. I don't have a pressure guage to check it. I live in Texas can anyone recommend a pressure tester that would be easy for me to use and that i can aquire from local auto parts store. Maybe this Tk Fuel pump isn't pulling/pushing the correct amount of fuel. Clear the code 63 and the Unit starts right back up no problem. Thanks for the replies.

[gravy258]

its nothing to do with the fuel if it re-starts normally after clearing the code.
Its normal for the fuel pump bowl to be at the levels you stated.
When it stops does it stop like you turned it off ?
How frequent does this happen? and what happens exactly. I.E cuts out after defrost. Cuts out going over a rough ground.

check all connections inside the control box. Check the plugs are tight to the micro on the control box door. And check the plug to the in-cab controller is tight in the control box and the cabin. Check the fuses and relays.
Check all the connections to the compressor and alternator. Somthing is causing the fuel solenoid to drop out.

[Jaywalker]

Already checked all connections. It shuts off with the truck sitting in the parking lot, it might run 12 hours before it shuts off or it might run 4 hours. I can send the truck over bumpy roads picking up product from farmers in the next state and it comes back and while the truck is sitting waiting to be unloaded it might shutoff or it might run just fine then the next day it might shut off going down the highway. Thought about haveing a Priest come and cast out the Demon in it LOL. It always starts right back after clearing the code. I will recheck the connections today along with tank venting etc... Thanks

[Robert Hilton]

It would be worth defuelling the tank and have a look at the horrors that lurk on the bottom.
I assume you have a seperate feed for the reefer, even though tank is the same.

[moggy66]

Have you got another micro you could swap it with.......surley it can't be a fuel supply fault else it wouldn't shut down immidatly it would chug and it wouldn't start sraight back up again...........maybe the hold in voltage is failing from the micro?

[gravy258]

how old is this fridge?
theres was a issue years ago with TS's going thru fuel solenoids.
A new relay board was the fix. But this was the pull in circuit not the hold in.
There is no way you have a fuel fault

the green book says this
Put the unit in a unit self check.
check fluid levels, air cleaner and intake for obstructions
check rpm' are ok, check fuses
check the 8,8d and 8h circuits or proper operation
check 2,2a,2n or PLS at rocker on/off switch on side unit
check throttling valve is working OK
check earths on master plate
could be voltage spike from damper solenoid when exits defrost, fit a suppresion diode
check for low battery voltage

so do all this and get back to us

download the UPT green book from here http://tkguy.info/video/?C=M;O=A
(I don't know who this is just stumbled upon it)

[Jaywalker]

I don't have a spare relay/curcuit board or micro to swap into this unit for testing. We have had some fuel filter issues with some off our trucks as well. I have changed the fuel filter twice finding black little particles suspended in the fuel. Looks like a algae or something. The Low speed rpms are alittle above normal setting and High speed is just a fraction lower than recommended. I can adjust that today. The truck was in use yesterday so I wasn't able to work on it. Hopefully it will be available to work that list Gravy. I do know that battery voltage and alternator and battery connections are good. All fuses and relays are good. I might need some instruction on how to check the 8/8d and 8h plus the 2,2a and 2n. I will do the best i can with all this today when i go to work and get back with to you with what I find. Thanks.

[Robert Hilton]

The black particles would be microbiological contamination (gunk) in the fuel.
The best thing to do is drain the tanks and throw the diesel away (in an environmentally safe way).
Clean the tanks using a high pressure cleaner with hot water.
Dry the tanks out and refill with clean diesel, add some bug-killer, there are a number of commercially available products.

The cheaper option is to syphon all but the bottom 2 inches of fuel for re-use and throw the rest away.
Clean the tank in the same way.
When you do refill it use a large amount of bug-killer.
Whilst being cheaper, the chance of the contamination returning is far higher.
If you have a fleet of vehicles then check them all. The risk of cross contamination is high.

If there is alot of garbage in the fuel then a blockage in the fuel line is very likely. Check especially for blockages in elbow fittings, banjo's and the like.

[Jaywalker]

Every Diesel truck our company has that has traveled into our neighboring state has been fueling at the same truck stop. Every one of those trucks has expierenced fuel issues with contaminated fuel. Stopped up filters etc..Our Business is seasonal and all of our trucks and refer trailers are on the roll. Monday every truck got a fuel treatment/ cleaner added to the tanks. The unit I have been having trouble with is the only Box truck that has been going out of state and fueling at the same location as the Tractor trailers. Monday afternoon this truck left with the additive in the tank reefer running. The truck made the trip sat loaded till about noon today when it was unloaded and reloaded with empty pallets and sent back out. The reefer had run 23 hours strait without 1 problem. No code 63 or any other codes. Low rpm was smooth and fairly steady readings, and high rpm was without any miss/ smooth fast and even. Since the truck was loaded and running I wasn't able to do some of the work and recheck I wanted too. Hopefully I will be able to continue my investigation tomorrow. I do agree about the tank Cleaning.

[Robert Hilton]

In Europe the fuel has a 5% bio content, there is talk of increasing that amount. Since the use of the bio content I have noticed an increase in fuel contamination. It is after all food for the fungus that grows between the free water and the fuel itself.
Using a treatment will kill the fungus but it wont remove particles.
So even after it's dead it could still cause filters to block, especially if you the tank almost dry.
Keeps us posted on events.

Cheers,

Rob

[Jaywalker]

I had the oppurtunity to re-exam the Ts 500 today. I started in the Control box with the unit running Checking connections, voltage, fuses, and the ground connectons, while keeping an eye on the leds. After having to stop and do some other things i was backup on the ladder had my nose in the box when the unit went into defrost and the led did not light up on the defrost damper relay. Jumped down ran around looked into the truck box damper had not closed.Long story short Damper relay was a stone. Checked the terminal connections on the air switch one of the wire terminal was so loose it would almost slip off the spade connection with the units vibration. Replaced the relay, tightened up the connection to the airswitch. I really can't say this has resolved the intial problem as the unit has not shown a code 63 this week since the fuel additive was added to the tanks monday. I ended up having to stop and button it back up so it could leave on another run. I took a quick look at the fuel lines as i was about to get down off the truck and saw that the front injector was wet and saw that the fuel return line is being held on with a zip tie instead on a clap. That I will remedy in the morning and the way it is routed its rubbing a hole into the coolant hose the goes from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator. This was a used unit that another company installed on this truck last year. Well thats where I am at at this time.

[Robert Hilton]

Regards the fuel return line.
You can order a repair set from TK. It's pricey but it has all the bits you need.
The rad hoses, if have to replace them then do so with EPDM's they are cheaper and last just as long as the so called long-life silicone. Also, the lower hose runs through a 'P' clip, wrap some self vulcanising tape in this area of the hose. they have a tendancy to chafe there.

[coolerking]

its worth checking for corrosion on the black on/off switch next to the electric panel

[mickey1071]

First off, check the fuel line routing to the injector pump from the filter head. Some have been installed in reverse. Replace the check valve on the pump with a banjo and new copper washers. It`s either that, the on/off switch or the relay board. Difficult to tell which. You can add a fuel solenoid assist relay to the board as a relatively cheap test, which may cure it. We have had numerous units with this problem.