Re Tube layout NWD 30

[32hyb]

Hi Im new here have a NWD 30 thats having problems with auto defrost .
Have been told its probably the return airflow tubes that take readings from the front and rear of condenser.
Also been told its a cow of a job to trace and replace.
Can any one help me with illustrations plans of these tubes so I can check it for myself.
Or is there an alternative to operate the auto defrost sensor unit.

Regards Allan 32hyb Australia:confused:

[bellg]

Firstly,these tubes conect to the evaporator, not the condenser.
Open acess door on top RHS of unit and in there you will find the air switch (can be round shaped or rectangular).
A black and a clear tube are attached to the air switch.Trace them through the bulkhead and you will see where they connect to the evap.

[djbe]

Hi Im new here have a NWD 30 thats having problems with auto defrost .
Have been told its probably the return airflow tubes that take readings from the front and rear of condenser.
Also been told its a cow of a job to trace and replace.
Can any one help me with illustrations plans of these tubes so I can check it for myself.
Or is there an alternative to operate the auto defrost sensor unit.

Regards Allan 32hyb Australia:confused:

Hi,
What is the actual problem that you are having?
regards,
djbe.

[cadwaladr]

one test i would do is get the temperature below -5c,then make sure the manual defrost works,then with the temp below 0c join the wires together at the air switch[turn it off while joining the wires]if she defrosts then the wirings ok make sure you can blow thru the black and clear tubes ,do not mix them up when removing from the switch if they are clear reconnect with the temp below -5 disconnect the clear tube enter the rear of the box and slowly close the damper door when you have it 80percnt closed defrost should initiate[the door should close]

[32hyb]

Thanks for the question just recently on a day that was very humid and the unit had been running for around three hours and it had pullled down to -14c I opened side door and noted that the evaporator had iced up totally thereby causing no air flow through into the van.
I then finished unloading and then did a manual defrost this then deiced the evaporator enabling air flow through the evapoator. I then called the firm that I have been using for some years which I might add has had change of ownership along with different staff.
They said it may be the air flow sensor that was not operating as it should but it was in the to hard basket and that I should fit a manual timer and forget the original auto defrost.
I felt hat this was only a patch job hence my stubling across this excellent site that has opened up a whole new prospetive on these very reliable units.
I know feel confident enough with info provided to check it ou myself now that I know what Im looking for??.
Regards Allan

[32hyb]

You mentioned the damper door I take that its the the one opened and closed by a solenoid .
Question should I disconect solenoid to partially close apperture or what.

Regards Allan

[32hyb]

Hi on my unit its on the left hand side it looks like a vaccum servo unit.
My concern if I listen to the service bloke its seemed that the actual tracing of these tubes was quite hard .
Hence the request for plan or diagrams showing their location on the evapourator.
Regards Allan

[32hyb]

O/k this may be asking a lot does anyone know if an operators manual or service manual is still available for these NWD 30 unit.

Regards Allan Australia

[cadwaladr]

tracing them is easy on this as you say reliable unit,no there is no need to disconnect the solenoid,there are many issues with this system,but heres one or two that i find the most common,the tubes get blocked with water[blow em out when the box is above +5c [use a piece nylon/plastic pipe use the mouth for this not compressed air]the wiring terminals on the switch corrode/shake loose

[32hyb]

Well armed with information provided by all that replied to my question.
Today when I had finished my fridge run which I might add had to do a manual defrost again.
I looked up into the unit on the left hand side saw a clear plastic tube dangling in the breeze so to speak I was able to see were it was supposed to be and was able to push it back into place it looked like to air supply from the front of the evaporator to the sensor unit.
I had noticed that its gone really hard can I use just any sort of clear pastic tubing to repace it or is it a special type.
I know one thing that with out your helpful input I would have been grasping for straws.
Regards Allan Australia

[gravy258]

Allan, where are you in Australia, and who was repairing your fridge?

The air switch defrost switch is really quite simple in operation, a bit of tube on both sides of the evaporator, when iced up air switch closes and if coil sensor(klixon) is below 7 degrees defrost commences. Defrost completes when the klixon is at about 13 degrees.

The tube is the same as windscreen washer pipe on your truck. Or whatever you've got at hand that'll fit over the connectors on the switch. Air brake pipe or whatever.

The air switch might also be faulty, this is set up with a magnehelic gauge.

All this is very basic very simple stuff,
let me know whos been looking at your fridge and i should be able to find you somone a bit more competent.

[32hyb]

Hi Gravy well Ive been having this unit serviced for some 12yrs at S.A Thermoking
Wingfield Adelaide who have been excellent to say the least the owners name was Bill he has retired and sold to an eastern state company .
The main problem I see is that the new crew and management havent got the experience I feel in the older units and make it seem like its all to hard.
I have found out more on this site than they could tell me .
I have already found out that the tube that sense air output on the evaporator had come off completely they didnt even see this .
They suggest that I fit a timer actuated defrost unit.
I feel that if the old one is not right fix it but they say it would cost more than the units worth .
I have questioned this and through this site have located what I think is the problem.
Now that I know its only that grade of plastic tube I intend to replace it my self at least then I know its done right.
This unit has operated for some 13yrs with an altenator replacement ,an high torque starter motor, water pump and a hand primer unit on fuel pump and thats all apart from regular normal servicing its been bullet proof to say the least.
So why would one change to these later models when this does the job. My mobile is 0429082419 if you want to discuss the finer points.
Regards Allan 32hyb

[gravy258]

I know who your dealing with there, there only intersted in flogging new stuff with maintenance contracts. Its unfortunate that all TK dealers here are owned by only two companies.
Carrier are just as bad as TK in Adelaide.

theres some good fridge mechanics in Melbourne and Brisbane.
I Don't have a manual for a NWD hopefully some one here can help.

If not tell me the engine type, should be a DI with starter at front or C201 starter at back, and i'll send you a related manual, as they all operate the same with the same wires etc. any dramas post em up and everyone here will help you out.

[32hyb]

Hi Gravy yes your right there I will check tomorrow re starter motor Im pretty sure its the Isuzu motor will let you know .

Regards Allan

[32hyb]

Hi Gravy I put the plastic tube back on to where its was supposed to had enough slack to get it back on it was a really tight fit hard to get on but I got it .
The other mob were supposed to check all this it makes one wonder sometimes .
Anyhow I will se how it performs on wednesday when I do another fridge run .
In regards to the motor it has the starter at the back of the motor.
have a nice Xmas .

regards Allan 32hyb

[tony2009]

G'day Allan;
I'll rake up what I've got on the NWD30 (assuming it's a Super - C201 powered unit? Not many OM636 units left these days) There were a number of these units, my guess is we're talking 5000, 5100 or 5200 series unit, no worries;
what's your email address and I'll shoot something over for you.
Best regards; Tony

[tony2009]

G'day Allan;
You can contact me direct at tony@iceman.com.au or 07-33907800.
Best regards; Tony

[tony2009]

I know what you mean; I've seen them come and go. I was with Transpec (NSW) in the days when Pitstop was the SA TK dealer, then with TRS (NSW) when SATK was the dealer. After 20+ years with TK, it was time for me to move on. Are you right for parts? Give me a yell if you need any help. I'm here through the Christmas week, taking the first week in Jan but back on board the following week. Sad to say, but I remember when these things when they were new.
Best regards; Tony

[tony2009]

G'day Gravy;
My apologies, I realized after wards that I may have jumped in head first into something you were looking after.
Again; if I can be of any help, please don't hesitate to give me a yell.
Best regards and all the best for the new year; Tony

[32hyb]

Hi Gravy unit performed o/k today ,with that tube back where it should be no need, for a manual defrost as before or did it even show signs of icing up so problem seems to be solved.
I would like to take this chance to thank everyone that has been forthcoming with a wealth of info on my trusty NWD30 .
All the best to all of you for 2011.

Regards Allan Dunsford
Lameroo
S.A

[cadwaladr]

keep that unit running they will outshine any of the new slimline shi!!!!

[32hyb]

Hi Cad as yet I am to carry out tests that you suggested but I will in time but the info you supplied sure gives a clearer picture on the whole thing ,much appreciated.
All the best for you and your family for 2011.

Regards Allan 32hyb
Lameroo
South Australia
Australia

[32hyb]

Hi All many thanks for all you info its made it easier to understand what some like to make sound really hard.
All the best to you all for 2011.

Regards Allan 32hyb
Lameroo
South Australia