daikin FTXD60J

[paul_h]

Anyone heard of a daikin FTXD60JVEA.
I've got someone calling about one that needs a new inverter.
I've never heard of them, there's very little results on google, but enough to make me think it was a legit model number once, though no results on daikin.au's website.
Anyway, I need info, manuals whatever, because appaerntly he was told to buy a new unit as there may be something wrong with the outdoor inverter PCB. I'm trying to repair it as it's simpler fro me rather than installing new units :)

[Slim R410a]

Anyone heard of a daikin FTXD60JVEA.
I've got someone calling about one that needs a new inverter.
I've never heard of them, there's very little results on google, but enough to make me think it was a legit model number once, though no results on daikin.au's website.
Anyway, I need info, manuals whatever, because appaerntly he was told to buy a new unit as there may be something wrong with the outdoor inverter PCB. I'm trying to repair it as it's simpler fro me rather than installing new units :)

Sounds like it should be FTXS60D?? In UK we had FTXS60B, then FTXS60E, now FTXS60F

[Temprite]

Hey Paul.

That is a legit unit allright.

High wall split, reverse cycle, inverter r22 approx 6-8 years old.

3 pcbs in outdoor: filter, active module, control.

Control has the inverter drive components and is usually the one that plays up.

PM me if you want to know anything.

[paul_h]

Cheers,
If that's the vintage, I think I've worked on one of these before.
I remember posting about a daikin near the sea that was corroded and needed parts replacing and a laquer coat to stop it happening again.
I know that had a power filter, AFM and control PCB just like I was used to with the fujis.
I'm sure I asked in this forum about a year ago about those types of daikins.
IIRC the board wasn't that pricey either compared to the cost of a new unit.

edit: Yep here it is:
http://www.refrigeration-engineer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9034

Long time no see, temprite, I thought your username was familiar with daikins :D

[paul_h]

Ok, I looked at this unit today, indoor flashing light.
I looked at the outdoor unit, LED1a flashing, LED3 on, telling me excessive current error.
I checked compressor windings, all 1ohm resistance, meggered out at 20Mohm.
Checked IPM, all .399v the correct way, open circuit the other.

I reset the power, the comp starts up normally, voltages across the IPM were all ramping up to 140v evenly each, fan running OK, suction pressure guage just starting to move down, compressor amp draw (though not a good test I know) was slowly going up to 9A.
After 30 sec the compressor cut out, fan kept running for another 30sec, then LED1&2 came on (thermistor, CT or position defect).

The system kept doing this, sometimes run for 20-30sec, sometimes only 2 sec. Sometimes LED3 fault, sometimes LED1&2 fault.
Compressor seemed to always start OK and volts and amps were OK, just cut out quickly.

I did the fan blade removal and shaft twist, it turned only about half a turn by itself if that. It has no problem running at speed though, as I said, it kept running fine for 30 sec or so after the compressor cut out. The fan may be faulty, but it runs of the control PCB, and it was the power PCB running hot seemed to be a bit of a burning smell from around the power PCB after each time it cycled off I noticed. No visble burnt places though.

It could be the compressor stalling, drawing too many amps or not running the right speed, but something tells me the compressor and IPM are doing everything OK. I've seen plenty of stalled comps that really slug and draw high amps before cutting out, this one seems to cut out for no reason except for the power board running hot, slight burning smell..

Any ideas?

[Temprite]

G'day Paul.

I get this problem all the time, so much so that if I get the customer to call up the fault codes before I get there and they give me an L5 error (output overcurrent). I order the board first then go to site and replace it. (In fact fixed a unit yesterday with exactly this problem)

If you reset the power and try again you will get H6 fault a number of times before L5.

The outdoor unit will normally shut down after a short period without the compressor hooked up which makes it hard to check voltages.

From memory if you hold the test button down on the control PCB for approx 8 secs (i think) it should bypass the safeties and send a fixed voltage to the compressor and will run for much longer(forced operation). Pushing it once will initiate test mode.

Anyway all this said the control PCB on your unit is knackered.

The only thing that concerns me is that you only get half a turn on the fan motor shaft should be approx one and a half turns. You have to give them a fair flick with your thumb and finger.

cheers.

[brunstar]

yeah sometimes on that model the fan motor can turn and run but as it draws higher current than normal when the compressor kicks in it goes into fault, those swing comps are very reliable, it sounds more like a control pcb and fan motor.

[paul_h]

Thanks, bearing in mind what temprite said in an earlier thread, I was going to get a control PCB and a fan motor just to be on the safe side, you just confirmed that is what I should do.
Cheers.


edit: 1000 posts!

[Brian_UK]

<snip>

edit: 1000 posts!

:off topic: :D:D Send the man a forum doughnut (donut), he's earned it ;):):D

[paul_h]

While I've got a couple of guys floating around here that know daikins, maybe someone can help with another?
Daikin wall split FTY60GV1A
In the outdoor unit there's inline fuses that power both indoor and outdoor PCBs that were blown.
I checked everything out for shorts and found it all OK, replaced the fuses and tested, no operation just flashing lights in the O/U and I/U.
Outdoor LED A 6 flashes
Indoor LED A slow constant flash, LED B really fast constant flash.

I think it's a comms error and the indoor is faulty. outdoor was putting out 20-90V on the comms line, indoor was putting out a static 20V.
But the question is what would cause the indoor to stuff up and the fuses to blow? Are there any known faults like i/u fan motors causing damage etc that always cause this, or is it just a common case of these boards just die?

[sinewave]

Voltage spikes on the main supplies can ferk up PCB's easily but are untraceable unless the client experienced other indications at the time of the spike or dip.

[Temprite]

G'day Paul.

LED A on the outdoor unit should be flashing constantly it indicates PCB health.

LED's 1 and 2 on the outdoor indicate the faults and are red. From memory they light up but dont flash

LED A on the indoor is exactly the same but for the indoor PCB.

LED B on the indoor flashes fast and sometimes erratically it indicates communication between indoor and outdoor unit PCB's.

You can still look up the faults from the indoor remote control by pressing and holding timer cancel until you get 00. Then push cancel one push at a time until you get long beep, then you have the code.

My bet is that you will have a U4 fault (communication error).

I have had FTY60's do exactly the same as yours. Turn off the power while watching LED A on the outdoor unit if it stops flashing and goes off then you probably have a problem with the outdoor PCB. Either that or something connected to the PCB is causing the problem.
Disconnect wire 2 (signal wire) at the terminal strip and disconnect compressor, reversing valve, fan, bypass solenoid, then turn on the power and see if LED A flashes constantly without stopping. If it doesn't flash constantly then outdoor PCB is faulty.

[paul_h]

Thanks, I was reading the troubleshooting guide on the unit, and it said 6 flash then off is comms trouble. I forget now but it mentioned something about turning the unit off and if it happens still ??? (i forget)
I can't remember now but at the time I thought it was indoor PCB problem?

I can't explain anything now as I have forgot, I went to this job on the 22/12/08.
But why would you think it's outdoor pcb fault when the outdoor signal on the comms line was 20-90Vac, and the indoor, while having more flashing LED action, was putting out a static 20Vac?
Why would LED B on the indoor be flashing erractically to indicate comms when it was only outputting a static 20Vac? In my mind that's not a proper comms signal from the indoor?

I wrote down what it was doing, but I don't have the troubleshooting guide, (I was reading of the unit itself as I have no manuals or guides at all on daikin) So I can't think how I made my diagnosis, only now I'm confused as it's the opposite of yours! :D

I guessed indoor PCB fault as no decent comms output, and something written on the outdoor troubleshooting guide mentioned bad indoor comms if the LED flashed 6 times and then went out.
:o
Cheers for you help, I hope you can clear some more things up for me.

edit: also I went to another old daikin today, it works fine, but none of the LEDs on the outboard work. It's a 12y/o ry45 that sometimes cuts out and shows comms fault, but it's weird to see it running perfectly (most of the time) without any LEDs working. They measured alright (1.7v across, so it's not the LED faulty) the unit just has something screwy with the outdoor pcb. At least daikin seem to have stock of PCBs this old.

[Bluey0702]

Paul h The model you quote dose not exist. This is the model you may need.
FTXD60JV1B

[Temprite]

Paul h The model you quote dose not exist. This is the model you may need.
FTXD60JV1B

It does in Australia:)

[paul_h]

It was the outdoor PCB.
The old one did 6 flashes than died, the new one did six flashes then clunked a relay I think. Whatever it did, the old PCB couldn't do that so the old board was faulty.
I did buy a new indoor thinking it was that because of no decent voltage from it on the comms line, but I bought an outdoor PCB on your recommendation Temprite, so at least I had the right part in the end ;)

Oh well, I've wasted $130 on a board I didn't need, but some lessons do cost you money :)
At least I can clear another job as done without having to go back.

edit: I'm talking about the second daikin I needed help on, the conventional FTY60GV1A here.

The original daikin I posted about (FTXD60JVEA inverter) went nowhere, obviously the guy with that one didn't want to pay $900 to fix his $2k air conditioner as I haven't heard back from him.