Quote Originally Posted by roosm View Post
So no way to limit electricity to it to get it to slow down?
You could run it on a variable speed drive, but you'd not want to go slower than half speed or your lubrication would probably suffer pretty badly. I'd not go lower than 35Hz myself. It might work, it might seize the compressor, I've never done it on a hermetic compressor as yet and I'm not sure how they specifically pump oil. I know that Danfoss recommend their scrolls not go slower than 35Hz because the oil pump loses volume under there.

Quote Originally Posted by roosm View Post
My evaporator uses a single tube which I do not understand? How does that work?
To simplify it, liquid refrigerant enters at one end and boils away absorbing heat as it traverses the tube, leaving as a vapor at the other end.

Quote Originally Posted by roosm View Post
I will post my make and model of the compressor if I can find it on the unit.
You did that. Take the model and punch it into google. I came up with an efficient R134a compressor. Checking the capacity chart in the data sheet suggests the compressor is rated between -35C and -10C. At -35C the compressor should draw about 60W and at -10C it should draw about -118W. I'd hazard a guess that at your temps it's going to draw quite a bit more and complain quite loudly.

Quote Originally Posted by roosm View Post
If I cut any tubes I guess it is toast? I mean you would have to somehow refill it with refridgerant and seal it under pressure?
Yes to both of those.

Short of completely replacing the cooling system you want to get the evaporator down to about -10C. You need to make the interface between the interior air and the evaporator less efficient. I don't see a *simple* way to do what you want to do. I'd honestly recommend talking to a fridgy about getting it done properly, after all it's what they do day in and day out whereas I just design security in tall buildings (about as far away from a fridgy as they come).