Broken schraeder valve.

[Sparkletron]

Hey peeps, Any of you geniuses here got a good method to remove a busted core?
It's on my personal 5kw Fujitsu, I was screwing around near the outdoor unit and noticed a slight oil residue on the service port. So I thought I'd pump it down for good measure and replace the core. ( The cap was slightly loose too. )
I attempted to replace it with a core replacer tool ( this tool you can use while it's juiced up )
but the core would not come out. Lucky I pumped it down!

I ended up taking the core replacer off and trying to pop out the core but it ended up coming apart and now half of it is stuck in the service port.

I've tried easy outs and so on, but I just cant get it to budge.

I'm not against breaking the flares, etc If I have too, but I have no reclaim pump, etc so I can not replace the valve, which looks like it might be the easy way.


I did hear of some **** head I knew using another AC and some dodged up lines to reclaim a unit that he was repairing, I'm not that keen though! ( probably would get most of the gas in theory but I think I'll pass.

Any suggestions fellas?

[install monkey]

if its pumped down then usually long nose pliers and yank the bugger out- if the you cant get the new core to fit then u need a 1/4 charging stubb with tail on, and a flare nut- but usually fujitsu's have their core recessed so they are a real pain to access

[Sparkletron]

I was looking towards a stub, but would it be safe to leave the remnants of the old core in there if I cant get it out?

[install monkey]

yep it will be safe- just put a cap on it with a rubber seal inside or ptfe tape on the thread- as you wont be able to fit gauges to it

[Sparkletron]

I'm not sure I know what you mean, why wouldn't I be able to put a gauge on it?

[install monkey]

thought you'd broke the core trying to get it out

I ended up taking the core replacer off and trying to pop out the core but it ended up coming apart and now half of it is stuck in the service port.

I've tried easy outs and so on, but I just cant get it to budge.

[Sparkletron]

Yep, the core is stuffed, I just don't understand why I wouldn't be able to put gauges on now?

[monkey spanners]

Yep, the core is stuffed, I just don't understand why I wouldn't be able to put gauges on now?

Because you won't be able to take the cap off and fit gauges without refrigerant escaping!

I've got them out before with a very small stud extractor but sounds like you have tried this. If the top half has broken off i think it may be possible the arse end could fall into the pipework as its only the bobble on the end and the spring that keep it together. It wants getting out imo.

[Sparkletron]

Umm, so if I put on a charging stub with no core inside it, how would I pull a vacuum and run OFN through it, etc?
I've seen them all over the place with a schraeder core in them. Or am I missing something?

[FreezerGeezer]

O. G. G!

Look, you've told us that the Schraeder core in the service valve has broken off.
That you have tried to remove the broken section but without success - so far.

So, as everyone has said - if the valve core is broken, it will leak. It may also find it's way into the system.
if you are certain that the remains of the core won't enter the system, then cap off the connection, put a note on it to warn future mechanics & braze a schraeder stub into the line to provide service access.
Alternatively do what IM suggests & fit a schraeder stub onto the existing flare connection, using a flare nut.
Otherwise, you have to find a way of getting rid of the remains of the core. I'm making the assumption that the threaded portion has broken off the core's body. That being the case, a pair of fine tweezers, an o-ring pick or something similar may enable you to pull out the rest of the core.
If it really is impossible to get out, try blowing it out with OFN (nitrogen to Aussies) & if that doesn't work, I think it's time to find a replacement service valve - either new or a suitable size off a decommissioned unit.

Why don't you have access to a reclaim unit? Do you have a vac pump?

And there's nothing wrong with building a reclaim unit from an old system - it's how we did it in the days before oil-less (and reasonably priced) reclaim units were on the market.

[Sparkletron]

Freezergeezer I am well aware that it will leak, hence why I want to fix it!

I have decided that I will get the rest of the core out using a variety of tools, and if the thread in the valve is stuffed making it impossible to insert a new core, I shall put a flare nut on a stub and whack that on.

I have a fare few tools for a split installer, but no reclaim unit as I don't really have a need for it.

You are right, there is nothing wrong with making a proper reclaim pump out of a compressor, the lad I was refering too was haphazzardly using a whole outdoor unit, with some wild pipe configurations to reclaim juice...
Real bodgy!

The tools I do have are the best I could find, I've got a vac, OFN reg, digital micron gauge, core pullers for 22 and 410, eccentric flare tool, pipe benders, leak detectors, 410 manifold, massive bore vac hose and adapters for everthing, IR thermometer and torque spanners.
That is a bloody lot more than the average Aussie split installer uses, lucky to get a good vac down most times where I'm at!

[install monkey]

aussie kev, had a shed load of tools when he left our old gaff- bout 2 crates worth- did a houdini and dissappeared over a weekend- left an empty van- kevin stott by the way- has a brother too- you must know him- aus is only small!

[monkey spanners]

Any relation?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKg1H9gHWng

[install monkey]

https://www.facebook.com/kevin.stott.777?fref=ts
looks similar john

[FreezerGeezer]

Sparkletron: I'll admit I was beginning to wonder - this has been quite a confused thread.
My apologies if I offended you.

How about a photo or two so we can see what you're up against? Might help clarify things. One thought I had today - if the threaded portion is what's broken off, leaving the main body behind, might a small pick up magnet pull it out?

[Sparkletron]

Geezer, not offended at all mate.
I'll get some pics of it over the weekend, basically I can thread an easy out into it, but it only pulls forward so far, then stops and the easy out slips out of it. I managed to yank out the centre pin, the spring and the threaded bit with flat sides. The rest is still in there.
i am going to pull it out with some sort of hard steel pick of some sort. I'll see how I go!

[still learning]

here's a long shot idea.
try using a tap from a tap and die set . and cut a thread into the remains of the schraeder .
hopefully the remains may lock its self to the tap.
do not thread it all the way( schraeder) , only till it locks onto the tap.( if your lucky)
it did work for me one time .
failing that cap off the broken schraeder and braze in a 1/4 stub with a schraeder into the out side pipe work.

[Ritchie Cook]

If you're that desperate to have a port on it why don't you just fit an extra service valve immediately after the damaged Port. If you've pumped the system down already then it'll be no effort to braze one of these in.

I don't know if you can post pictures so here's a link to what I'm on about
http://www.greatstonehvacr.com/produ...mid=0423&pid=6

[Sparkletron]

Got it sorted out, I drilled out the remaining core carefully, got rid of all of it and blasted it out with a couple of thousand KPA of OFN...
I brazed in a new port and now I just need to buy some more OFN, vac it, pressure test, so on and so forth.

This brings me to another question, kinda related. What damage would be done, if any by using industrial grade nitrogen for sweeping for leaks? Obviously it's not going to suck up the water like dry nitro does. Just something I saw the other day on a job where someone else was doing the AC.

[monkey spanners]

Dry nitrogen doesn't suck up water, but it shouldn't have any in or any oxygen for that matter. Industrial nitrogen is likely not as clean and pure.

[Sparkletron]

Hmm, I was taught that dry nitro absorbs moisture in the system. Certainly seems to sort things out when you find your system goes from 500 micron up to a couple of thousand and stays there ( wet tight system ). Any way, the dry nitro, or oxy free nitro we have here is defined as 99.99% nitro, less than 10PPM oxy and less than 10PPM water. Industrial nitro is defined as 99.9% nitro and i assume somewhat more o2 and h2o is allowed in that grade.

I can't see it doing any harm, but probably not good practice!