Firstly, apologies for the legth o fthe post. This is my first post and I'm not an expert on fridges, but hopefully someone reading this can help me!
On Thursday last week I had had an electrician check and connect a circuit I'd installed in my kitchen. At some point the power was turned off and he'd also done the RCD trip tests etc on the new circuit. Although the freezer is on a different circuit to the one being tested, in the process all the circuits in the house had been repeatedly powered up and tripped by the main RCD.

Later that evening I found a pool of water under our Kyoto (Iceland own-brand) KU96FF frost free freezer. The freezer power light and the red 'too warm' warning light were on. When I switched to fast freeze, that light came on too, but the compressor did not kick in.

I turned the power off for ten minutes and then turned it back on, still nothing.
I removed the front trim to access the PCB (see photo below - note the photo has been rotated 180deg so you can read the PCB) and checked the connectors were tight. When I disconnected the red plug (marked CON1), the fast freeze and warning light started to flash and the compressor kicked in. I reconnected the red plug and the compressor continued to run and the FF/warning lights stopped flashing and stayed on.
CIMG4211a.JPG

I turned off the power, turned it back on and it didn't start; removing the red connector had no effect.
I turned the power off, left it a few mins, turned power on. It didn't start immediately but when I removed the red connector the compressor started and the FF/warning lights flashed as before. I reconnected the plug, the lights stayed on and compressor kept running.

I left it running, the low temp lamp went out after about 10 mins and it has carried on running since then. However, if the power gets cut, it needs the 'reboot' procedure to get it going again.

Can anyone suggest what the fault may be and/or why removing the red connector (or the white one I've since found out) once the power has been off for a few minutes makes it work? Is there a fix, or is the PCB damaged?


TIA Mike