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Thread: Burn out procedures
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09-01-2003, 11:12 AM #1
Burn out procedures
Ive just fitted a rebuilt compressor 20 HP part wind which failed due to two phasing. On strip down the engineers informed me that they found lots of pink inside it and this indicates moisture.
Not wanting to hire a crane out again and go through the same process in a couple of months ive fitted a new liquid line drier and suction burn out drier. How long should i leave the burn out in for in an ideal situation? Or should i just go back and take a ph test kit each week?
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09-01-2003, 04:40 PM #2
Ideally, you want to remove the suction line filter-drier once the acid has been removed for the system. A replaceable core type filter-drier makes this easy... Simply replace the core with a suction filter element, or leave the shell empty. A Sporlan RSF-4811-T shell with an RC-4864-HH core would be correct here (assuming a 1-3/8" OD suction line).
If the problem is you used a sealed model filter-drier in the suction line for cleanup... Actually, with a 20 ton a/c system, you would have some difficulty finding a sealed model filter-drier large enough to do this. So the Prof will assume you have a shell in the suction line.
With the system getting some reasonable operational duty, a week of two will be plenty of time to allow the drier to do its work.Prof Sporlan
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14-01-2003, 05:44 PM #3
Reggie,
I will suggest that you take a oil ph for the first time at one week, the second within a two week of the first one. You can go up to three tests depending on the result, on the degree of burnout on your system
Usually i suggest a oil change after a week are two of running, especially if the oil test is marginal.
kathleenKathleen, P.eng
www.refri-ozone.com
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15-01-2003, 04:44 AM #4
Is there a pH type sight glass like the moisture indicator types?
I visit http://www.fuel-saver.org
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17-01-2003, 04:27 AM #5Is there a pH type sight glass like the moisture indicator types?Prof Sporlan
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17-01-2003, 12:27 PM #6
If you indeed invent one, can I get the first one off the line (at wholesale of course! LOL)
ZolarI visit http://www.fuel-saver.org
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21-01-2003, 06:38 PM #7
Should be possible to make one. I bet it would sell very well too. Hey prof, get Sporlan to do this and I will never buy ALCO again.
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21-01-2003, 07:00 PM #8
HEY!!!!!!.... Ditto, here......
A ph/moisture combo sightglass would be "stock" on my trucks!!!!!
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22-01-2003, 12:58 AM #9Should be possible to make one. I bet it would sell very well too. Hey prof, get Sporlan to do this and I will never buy ALCO again.
The Prof confirmed with his chemists that this issue had been considered a number of years ago. Apparently, finding an indicator that will change color consistently at the appropriate acid numbers, and not get itself dissolved in the refrigerant proved a bit of a problem. Might just have to get them to look at that problem once again..Prof Sporlan
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22-01-2003, 02:13 AM #10
Prof, Look in Sporlans rear veiw mirror. Alco is the company back there trying to copy all of your stuff and make it cheaper. They are doing a good job on the cheap part.
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22-01-2003, 06:53 AM #11
Sigh......well, maybe an indicator could be installed on the suction line near the compressor........doesn't acid give off vapours?
Perhaps one that you could open and replace the indicator like a core-type dryer?
How about an electronic version?I visit http://www.fuel-saver.org
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22-01-2003, 06:57 AM #12
Wait a sec.........
How about one that if the indicator is missing (dissolved) within a period of time - say less than 1 year, the tech would instantly know something's amiss (acid ate the indicator away) and do further diagnostic's?
If it's dissolved after a year, test the system as you would regularly do and install a new indicator?I visit http://www.fuel-saver.org
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22-01-2003, 03:17 PM #13If it's dissolved after a year, test the system as you would regularly do and install a new indicator?Prof Sporlan
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22-01-2003, 06:06 PM #14
Prof it is coming to that point. I had a small glass chiller in a bar, 404 system. I just replaced the compressor last summer. Evap sprung a leak and contaminated the POE oil. I offered 2 prices: change oil and new compressor. Difference in my cost is $60. That is what the difference I quoted too. I had to do the same work to change the oil as change the compressor. I convinced them the new comp. was worth the difference in price.
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