how do you remove the evaporator cover on the samsung rs21 range

[bazigaar420]

hi there, i have a rs21dcns and a few days ago it started to make a noise only when opening the fridge door.. then it would make this noise constantly.....
now it the noise has stopped but the will not cool down as fast as it use to...
i wanted to check if the fan has stopped working hence it does not circulate the air.
or have i just totally missed the cause of this. please advise...
i did remove the 4 screws on the evaporator cover but it would not come apart.

any advise would be appreciated
cheers

[Electrocoolman]

Sounds like you have a defrost problem.
The original noise was probably the fan blades touching the ice.
The ice has now built up more and is stopping the fan from turning.
It is also probably preventing you from removing the evap cover.
Would suggest you turn it off and leave it to defrost completely. (+24 hrs)

[Makanic]

Heh heh My first post ...
rs21 ..I dont have the Manuels handy
but i am asuming its a twin evap cooler?
I Have seen lots of the same problem with Samsungs
& I should be able to help you out..
After you defrost it, so you can pull the panel Off.
you will more than likely have 1 or more of the following problems which are easy to find & fix

1/Heater fuse blown
Samsung sometimes put these to close to the heater causing them to burn out more often..

2/Heater itself Burnt out
This sucks as the heater from Samsung comes with the evap assemble ,,but you can pick it off & refit it with out a problem..

3/thermister out of range (causing it not to defrost as long as it should (if you need the resistance values let me know)

4/Insulation panel drain hole blocked or water logged.

When you take the panel off if it seems very very heavy check where the drain hole is
(square Hole Under the fan)

If this is blocked up with ice? sometimes the hole has collapsed or was to small to alow propper drainage, when the fridge went into defrost mode, & over time it would just get worse..

You can cut the hole larger As the new replacment Insulation panels Have had that done allready..

Water logged panel..depends how bad it is But this usualy I would replace ,as once it water logged it keeps freezing up,,& can cause the same problems that you are having ,
Hope this helps ???
If Not let me know..
Cheers

[bazigaar420]

i have defrosted the unit and it seems to work fine for a few weeks,
and the problems start all over again.
just recently the temp gauge is been reading from 5 then up to 14-15 but never anything in between.
please advise

[paul_h]

Is the coil heavily iced up when you remove the cover?
if so, see number three above, you need a new defrost sensor.
If the coil isn't completely covered in ice, but you have the noise when opening the door, then you need a new evaporator cover as the insulation is water logged and blocking the fan.

[scudder]

Hi Guys, just thouht I'd add to this thread by saying I have a samsung rs21dgrs model which has failed after 9 months. The engineer who came to fix it tells me that he has personally fixed 70 of this model over the past year with the same fault which is a design fault known to samsung. The problem appears to be a mechanical one in that there is insufficient contact between heat transmitting parts in the rear panel which was intended to prevent ice build up behind the internal rear panel. Ice builds up and eventually impedes the fan which in turn fails. They have introduced a modification to fix......however 7 days after a new fan unit was put in with this bodge our unit has started to make the same noise again. Not sure what will be their next move!

[bazigaar420]

any one know where i can get the defrost sensors and the heating elements from

[George3519]

Electrue Part /Connect .They have a website and you can open an account

[MPusa]

Heh heh My first post ...
rs21 ..I dont have the Manuels handy
but i am asuming its a twin evap cooler?
I Have seen lots of the same problem with Samsungs
& I should be able to help you out..
After you defrost it, so you can pull the panel Off.
you will more than likely have 1 or more of the following problems which are easy to find & fix

1/Heater fuse blown
Samsung sometimes put these to close to the heater causing them to burn out more often..

2/Heater itself Burnt out
This sucks as the heater from Samsung comes with the evap assemble ,,but you can pick it off & refit it with out a problem..

3/thermister out of range (causing it not to defrost as long as it should (if you need the resistance values let me know)

4/Insulation panel drain hole blocked or water logged.

When you take the panel off if it seems very very heavy check where the drain hole is
(square Hole Under the fan)

If this is blocked up with ice? sometimes the hole has collapsed or was to small to alow propper drainage, when the fridge went into defrost mode, & over time it would just get worse..

You can cut the hole larger As the new replacment Insulation panels Have had that done allready..

Water logged panel..depends how bad it is But this usualy I would replace ,as once it water logged it keeps freezing up,,& can cause the same problems that you are having ,
Hope this helps ???
If Not let me know..
Cheers

Hi I just joined and like how you detailed the possible causes for the refrigerator not cooling. In the case of the evaporator defroster heater, will i have to buy a whole evaporator assembly, or can i get that heater separately? I have a Samsung side by side model RS2556BB. Thanks.