samsung side by side

[Pete the cool]

Samsung side by side with water chiller and ice maker
I have this problem where the cabinet runs ok when first switched on but once it has cycled on the controller ,doesn't come back on. I thought it was too cold in the garage ,where I was checking it out(it would display -20 freezer and 4 'fridge but when switched off/on it was telling porkies ,the ice melted in the ice maker)
Now it's in a warm house and it's doing the same.
Any ideas? It's not displaying any probe faults.
Pete the not so cool

[Electrocoolman]

Just a thought.......I would have control board out and look for dry joints, and possibly bad cable connections.

Have you searched ukwhitegoods website?

[Pete the cool]

Hi Electrocoolman,
Thanks for the tip -I'll try that . No -I haven't tried the site you mentioned. Would that be for further info or for possible spare components ?
I took this thing apart to see how it worked (I didn't want a customer sat on my shoulder as I figured out how to prise the command keypad off the door) and whilst I saw each side had its' own evaporator,complete with defrost heaters and seemingly connected in series , I didn't see how the seperate sides were controlled ,temperaturewise. No little mag valves or cunningly concealed heaters with the capilliary wrapped round it. Can you enlighten me?
Pete the cool

[Electrocoolman]

Pete, sorry but I've never had one of these apart, so cannot explain the cabinet workings. Its unusual for fridge / freezers to have separate evaps these days...most seem to service the fridge side with cold air from freezer.
If it has got separate units and only one compressor, that would suggest that they are either in series (both get cold together) or have solenoid valve somewhere.
The site is for further info. Currys sell these units(?) in which case Mastercare (think thats the name of the Dixons spares group) might have parts?
Good luck...theres lots of threads on this site for Samsung fridges so any info you gain in your efforts would be appreciated by all here.
ECM

Further to above: might be better to avoid Mastercare after looking on web....try googling 'Samsung Spares'...lots of hits.

[Pete the cool]

Thanks for your help up to now Ecm. I've already registered as a tradesman with whitegoods,thanks to your tip,so hopefully will get more info there.
It just occurred to me as was staring at my gauges (why do you 'fridge people seem not to do much except stare at things and wait about a lot?) that the heater taped to the front of the 'fridge evaporator is actually the temperature control for that side. The heater on the freezer coil will be the defrost heater and the control board will be cycling the compressor on the freezer set temperature. Yeah - the more I think about it that's probably the way it works- probably not though as this would break the first laws of thermodynamics i.e the system will always be designed in such a way as to defy all logic and must include lots of concealed sharp things.
Pete

[Brian_UK]

....It just occurred to me as was staring at my gauges (why do you 'fridge people seem not to do much except stare at things and wait about a lot?) ..........Pete

That's because we are watching for any changes in the system.

You now know how hard it can be to fault find on a system that outwardly seems to work OK.

I've had it on an AC system which stopped during the night but would restart and work fine in the morning. It took about four hours before it went into fail mode and I was able to pin point the fault straight away.

So if you just press the reset, have a coffee, and then walk away you will probably be back the next doing the same thing all over again

[Pete the cool]

Tell me about it. We had a constant alarm out on a section of supermarket freezers during the night . By the time we got there ,about 10am ,everything was back down to temperature. This went on for a couple of weeks ,with no solutions. Then ,one night ,an engineer was there attending to another call ,and noted the power supply to the cabinets was off. It turned out a team had been sent in to replace the case 'stats with electronic controllers and wired in the power for the controllers into the case lighting system- which was tied in with the supermarket lighting system ,which was controlled by a time clock to kill the lighting between 10 pm and 7am. The offending team were beaten to death with flare spanners.
Pete the cool

[Makanic]

SAMSUNG HEY HEY
Something I know about..

So what you are saying is that the Fridge works for a while & then stops cooling with no error message yes?
Well if you turn the power off & on it should start back up you should be able to hear it click & the compressor restarts

Powering the unit off & then On Resets the PCB
& it should work for about 4 hours
4 hours is the default for its first Defrost..
If its turning off (not cooling) after 4 hours
theres a defrost problem

Being a double evap unit It starts the defrost in the fridge section first & when & if its done (with out any problems) it then moves on to the freezer
So i would check the fuse link on the evap first
& then the heater itself & then the drain heater
if you find nothing in the fridge compartment wrong then you move on to the freezer compartment
..Any questions just ask
Ps still have got some service manuels if you have the model number..

[paul_h]

^^ Hey samsung guy from australia, what state do live in?

yeah, faulty temp display means a break in the defrost circuit. Check the heaters, can't tell you the resistance without an AU model number, but the lowest if seen is 280 ohms, the highest 2k ohms. If they're OK it's a faulty thermal fuse. If it's a thermal fuse, you need to check the coil sensors, should be less than 2 volts across the coil sensor on a fully defrosted fridge.
They may not be giving the right voltage to turn the heaters off, (ie. shorted and stay 3v + across them), so the heaters keep running until the thermal fuse blows

[paul_h]

Thanks for your help up to now Ecm. I've already registered as a tradesman with whitegoods,thanks to your tip,so hopefully will get more info there.
It just occurred to me as was staring at my gauges (why do you 'fridge people seem not to do much except stare at things and wait about a lot?) that the heater taped to the front of the 'fridge evaporator is actually the temperature control for that side. The heater on the freezer coil will be the defrost heater and the control board will be cycling the compressor on the freezer set temperature. Yeah - the more I think about it that's probably the way it works- probably not though as this would break the first laws of thermodynamics i.e the system will always be designed in such a way as to defy all logic and must include lots of concealed sharp things.
Pete

err no, the fridge/freezer stops cooling by turning their fans off. If one needs cooling they will turn the compressor on and start their fan. the one that doesn't need cooling will just sit there with the fan off letting refrigerant go through the evap but not doing anything with it. Both sides have an evap and defrost heater

[welshnomad]

Hi Guys

I don't mean to hijack this thread but I have a similar problem and getting desperate.

Aren't these Samsung side by side f/f rubbish? I wish I'd read more reviews before buying mine.

I have a RS21KPSV model with water and ice dispenser. The freezer side 'appears' to be working OK but the fridge is not cooling.

Initial indication: Freezer reading -18 OK, Fridge 4 (flashing) - bad.

Switched off at socket, switched on and freezer reading -12 which VERY slowly (hours) dropped to -18. Fridge reading 19. Over many hours the fridge temperature varied between 14 and 19 but on one occasion it did read 4 but then it climbed back to 19.

The error code that I am seeing is the centre horizantal segment of the right-hand fridge temperature LED is illuminated.

Can someone please help me?

Many thanks

Ken

[paul_h]

I'd put my money on the fridge fan being iced up or faulty. I was going to say incorrect temps or flashing display normally mean a failure of the high voltage defrost circuit (heater burnt out or thermal fuse, as said befopre in the thread). but I've never seen an error code for that. Your segment display error code makes me think it's the evap fan, as I have seen the incorrect temp and flashing display for a fan stuck in ice.
So check to see if the fan works (you'll hear or feel air out the vents after holding the door button down for 15 sec).
Was it really noisy for a while? If they're getting iced up, you'll hear a load whirring noise form the fridge that stops when you open up the door for a week or so before it breaks down. If so, your insulations is waterlogged and you need a new evap cover.
If not, it might be just a failure of the fan motor itself.

What you need to do is take off the evap cover, and see if the refrigerant coil is iced up - defrost failure, or if the coil is clear of ice and just the fan is iced up then it's insulation failure, which can be doublechecked by removing the fan and seeing if it runs freely out of the iced up evap cover.

[oscillator_1]

Hi,
I have worked an the samsung SxS dual evaporator fridges a couple of times.

1st check fans in the freezer and the fridge.
2nd check the thermal fuses in both sections.
3rd check the defrost heaters in both sections.
4th check the defrost sensors in both sections.

I put my money on a faulty thermal fuse in the freezer section.

Hope this helps out.

CHEERS

[Makanic]

Hi all here is my 2 cents worth
Flashing Light ? is it a line showing as a led?
eg: _ If so dead thermistor
_ Rh bottom freezer defrost thermistor
- Rh top freezer temp thermistor
- Lh top fridge temp thermostor
_ Lh Bottom fridge Defrost temp thermistor

[paul_h]

Hi,
I have worked an the samsung SxS dual evaporator fridges a couple of times.

1st check fans in the freezer and the fridge.
2nd check the thermal fuses in both sections.
3rd check the defrost heaters in both sections.
4th check the defrost sensors in both sections.

I put my money on a faulty thermal fuse in the freezer section.

Hope this helps out.

CHEERS

Interesting, what makes you say that?
I'm just wondering because it've been caught out sometimes. But why would you say freezer circuit fault if the fridge is the one not working.
Based on a twin coil model, not ducted air from freezer into fridge. I've never heard of a thermal fuse giving a segment fault display, because they're not tested in start up diagnostics, only sensors and fans are. So you could have a faulty thermal fuse or heater open circuit and not know from startup diagnostics, but you'd get the flashing or incorrect temps after a day or more of operation.

Also makanic, I got confused with this new fault because he mentioned middle horizontal segement displayed, and I notice you mentioned everything but that one. I couldn't find one either, have you ever seen the middle segment up, or is it a fault that doen't show up in your guides as well?
edit: it seems the newer manual says middle segment is defrost fault, so they must check the heater circuit on start up now. So if you see the middle horizontal semgent on the fridge side light up on forced diagnostic, it means the fridge thermal fuse or heater is open circuit.

[kiwireeferman]

err no, the fridge/freezer stops cooling by turning their fans off. If one needs cooling they will turn the compressor on and start their fan. the one that doesn't need cooling will just sit there with the fan off letting refrigerant go through the evap but not doing anything with it. Both sides have an evap and defrost heater

Cant believe a manufacturer would produce something that operates in this manner. Surely cycling the fans on and off would cause the coils to ice badly. Glad I don't work on that cr*p.

[paul_h]

anyone know the fault codes for a srs615dp?
symptoms: flashing freezer display, freezer coil defrosted.
No fault segment on power up diagnostics, but when forced diagnostics brought up, bottom horizontal freezer side segment displays.
First I was thinking flashing display = 240v problem, heater, thermal fuse, evap fan, but they all look OK.
My boss reckons that segment fault means condensor fan fault, but thats running OK too.
This is a 4 year old fridge with no history of problems, both coils clear, all sensors appear OK, all heater resistances look OK, fans running OK, and not iced up.
Owner said during previous visits over this issue in the past few weeks, freezer works OK for about a day after the tech leaves, then the problem returns.

[paul_h]

never mind, it was the freezer fan motor.
It was a strange one as the fan runs when pressing the door botton, but it cuts out after a minute or two.

As far as the segment that lit up when running diagnostics, for the manual of this generation fridge, that was coming up as defrost error.
I found a newer manual (made for the six button fridge), where's theres extra segments for faults. On the new ones the middle horizontal segment means defrost error, (the older ones don't list that fault for some reason) and the bottom one means fan error.

It's all weird and bizarre as this is the older four button fridge, but replacing the fan motor cleared that error and the newer manual applies to this fridge as well as far as diagnostics when it shouldn't.

Fan motor is definately to blame, as it doesn't cut out after a minute now, and I checked the resistances before fitting and the old motor had 20k ohm across windings where the new one had 1k ohm.
Also when on forced defrost the heaters worked fine, drawing 1 amp.

[lisaellamaurice]

Hi Guys
I have been following this thread. I have a Samsung side by side SRS615DP fridge freezer with ice and water despensers. It is an Australian model. The LCD sits in the freezer door housing with the ice and water despenser. I have purchased the new LCD panel with the attached board and would like some advice on removing the old LCD and replacing the new LCD panel.
Hope you can assist

[anthony kindred]

I have a SR-S2029CSS thats doing the samsung dance works fine until defrost then won't come back on untill switched off and on again. no fault codes show and the condenser is not iced up. what should i replace first