Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Cambridge, UK
    Posts
    5
    Rep Power
    0

    Question Modifying cabinet temps



    Okay, here's a new quick question for you all:
    all temps in Centigrade, just in case :~)

    Some of you may remember the traumas I've had with this cabinet over the last year or so...
    I've finally got it operating quite happily at -20, with a reasonable duty cycle and steady state temp, evaporating at about -30C and controlling between -20 and -22 air-on. Inside the cabinet is a pair of 600W evaporators, each controlled by a separate expansion valve (danfoss TS2 fitted with 00 orifice), which common up and return to a 2kW THR condensing unit

    We've recently had an enquiry for a cabinet which runs at +4C, instead of -20. Now, ideally I'd like to change as little of the system as possible, and I think I can get away with leaving the same evaporators and, possibly, orifices, inside the cabinet. I'd quite like to keep liquid and suction at 1/4" and 1/2" respectively, and just change the condenser for a HBP version. I think a danfoss SC10 should do the job, but...

    What sort of effects am I likely to encounter? Excessive superheat? and is this _really_ a problem, other than not fully using the evaporators. Is there anything I've missed with the spec?



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Tampa Florida
    Posts
    1,076
    Rep Power
    25
    I have had fair luck just turning the thermostat up with several style boxes. No other adjustments. These had CPR valves or MOPD TEV's in them. You could likely disable the electric defrost heaters.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    716
    Rep Power
    23
    You'd better check the maximum evaporating temperature rating of the condensing unit. You might find that the minimum expected operating temperature may not be within even the maximum rating of the C.U.

    I've run into the mindset by the customer that, well, if it can do -20, why can't it do +40 (if it's supposed to cool). But the space shuttle can't cruise 5mph down the strip to pick up chicks!!!!!

    Depending on the situation, you may have some humidity or other critical criteria compromised by changing the application.

    DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IF THEY WANT A COOLER, THEY NEED A COOLER. A FREEZER IS NOT A COOLER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Last edited by herefishy; 24-04-2002 at 03:30 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Cambridge, UK
    Posts
    5
    Rep Power
    0
    Yeah, that's basically my thoughts on the situation. Obviously for manufacturing it would be easier to keep the entire system the same, but we're basically already running the condenser with a huge airflow through it during cooldown to keep the head pressure low. If we try to control it at +4, then it's always going to be running loud (2 pole fan running flat out... in a laboratory!).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    West Lothian, UK
    Posts
    20
    Rep Power
    0
    What about installing a small heater, possibly proportianal control of the exisiting defrost elements, creating an artificial load and using more of the available capacity.

    David Allan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Cambridge, UK
    Posts
    5
    Rep Power
    0
    There isn't actually a heater or defost system on the refrigeration unit. I know this might sound like a bad idea, but it's running in a dry nitrogen environment anyway, and the evaporators icing up are the least of our problems if moisture gets in there!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    258
    Rep Power
    23
    Couldn't you change the refrigerant or adjust the charge?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    West Lothian, UK
    Posts
    20
    Rep Power
    0
    Why not add a heater and/or a hot gas bypass and pitch it as a constant temperature room capable of maintaining the temperature within 0.5'C of the set point which could range from
    -20 to +15.

    David Allan

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Cambridge, UK
    Posts
    5
    Rep Power
    0
    David,

    Can you explain that a little more? We are currently controlling between -20 and -22 air temperature, which gives us a pretty fast duty cycle for the compressor. How would I maintain a +/- 0.5C room temperature with heaters etc?

    The comressor we're using would struggle I think if we increased the set temperature, as it would not cope easily with the high back pressures.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    258
    Rep Power
    23
    Would a larger reveiver do it? Or maybe a bleed-off line? Or move the temperature sensor to a different location?

    I'm just grasping at straws here (I don't know much about this yet)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    New Port Richey, Florida - USA
    Age
    79
    Posts
    5,071
    Rep Power
    35
    James, as Dan suggested earlier, just install a CPR to limit the back pressure, and turn up the thermostat.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Tampa Florida
    Posts
    1,076
    Rep Power
    25
    I am puzzled where the concern regarding high suction and discharge pressures come from if you have a CPR or MOPD powerhead. I think it would be a piece of cake to operate the box at a higher temperature.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Bournemouth
    Age
    56
    Posts
    8
    Rep Power
    0
    A CPR will definately do the trick and turn the stat up. A MOP would also work, however will restrict your flexibility too much. Disconnect the evap heaters and extend your off cycle defrost time. Job done!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    716
    Rep Power
    23
    Regarding the TEV, is it an MOP? Have you checked, adjusted superheat for the "new" design temp?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Manchester UK city of rain
    Age
    51
    Posts
    37
    Rep Power
    0
    James,

    Probably the safest and cheapest modification apart from turning the stat up would be to add a crankcase pressure regulator, thus preventing the increased head pressure from putting to much load on the CU which is probably rated for low temp ie. small motor big piston and small condenser.

    Simon.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Bournemouth
    Age
    56
    Posts
    8
    Rep Power
    0
    Simon,

    I always thought a CPR was a crankcase pressure regulator!!! Obviously not!!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Manchester UK city of rain
    Age
    51
    Posts
    37
    Rep Power
    0
    sorry only read the first page before i posted reply, read the one about putting a heater in the room and thought i should reply quickly!!!

    Si

Similar Threads

  1. Help with a Ransco cascade cabinet on R13?
    By garyb in forum Refrigerants
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 16-04-2007, 11:20 PM
  2. R410A split min and max line temps
    By smileypete in forum Domestic
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 17-11-2005, 10:38 PM
  3. Building a wine cabinet
    By Rory in forum Technical Discussions
    Replies: 38
    Last Post: 13-07-2004, 08:28 PM
  4. Cabinet capacity
    By reggie in forum Fundamentals
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 31-03-2003, 03:39 PM
  5. Calculating Cabinet Temperature?
    By mepgkyc in forum Trouble Shooting
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 18-01-2002, 05:16 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •