Daikin issues with new R32 unit - RZASG100M7V1B

[TrickyRikki]

Right the story so far on this unit is as follows,

My company got a call for a unit not cooling on friday, one of our engineers attended and said the unit was short of refrigerant.

I attended today with the engineer that first attended and we weighed the refrigerant out to see how much it had lost, it hadn't lost any it was perfect charge, after recharging the unit we ran it with no issues, I accessed the error history which was U0 (system refrigerant shortage) and E4 (low pressure switch activated) now being that the charge was correct and the eev seems to be working fine the only other thing I could think is it's a pcb issue.

We installed the unit in june/July last year and had no issues till last friday, so the question is, is there a way to force the eev open and shut to make sure its working okay and also is there any way to run the outdoor unit in a test mode like on the Vrv's?

I'm reattending tomorrow or Thursday to check in on the unit so any tips or advice would be appreciated.

Tricky

[frank]

Here is a link to the installation manual.
https://www.daikin.co.uk/content/dam...al_English.pdf

The Test function is carried out via the indoor controller

[TrickyRikki]

Hello Frank, thanks for the link but I already have the installation manual, However the manual you sent isn't for the model I'm working on.

I ran it through a test mode via the controller but wondered if there was a way to open and close the eev via the bs buttons on a1p board.

[Tayters]

Only way I know on a split to open the valve is to swap a couple of the wires so it thinks it's winding it in but actually winds it out. Swap the yellow and blue (might be yellow and black on a Daikin) the reset the outdoor power to reinitialise the valve.

You can even try to reinitialise first off and wait to hear the valve clicking. No clicky, no valve turning but some are very quiet, need to get your hand on them to feel the click.

I've emailed a diagram of the internals of the coil, might be in your junk box. You can measure each winding for resistance with super pointy probes, 40 or 100 odd ohms depending on type. As long as all 4 read the same sensible reading (below 200 ohms I'd have thought, not seen one lower than 40) then coil windings good.
Make sure coil is clipped on all the way.

Seems Daikin have a few issues like yours these days...

[TrickyRikki]

Only way I know on a split to open the valve is to swap a couple of the wires so it thinks it's winding it in but actually winds it out. Swap the yellow and blue (might be yellow and black on a Daikin) the reset the outdoor power to reinitialise the valve.

You can even try to reinitialise first off and wait to hear the valve clicking. No clicky, no valve turning but some are very quiet, need to get your hand on them to feel the click.

I've emailed a diagram of the internals of the coil, might be in your junk box. You can measure each winding for resistance with super pointy probes, 40 or 100 odd ohms depending on type. As long as all 4 read the same sensible reading (below 200 ohms I'd have thought, not seen one lower than 40) then coil windings good.
Make sure coil is clipped on all the way.

Seems Daikin have a few issues like yours these days...

Thanks Tayters, got the email, returned back to site and everythings been running fine since i attended the other day, didnt test the coil tbh as i thought all the time its working i shall leave it alone.

Yes Daikin seem to be on a losing streak with the R32 units at the moment, ive had a few mates install R32 and they was so unreliable they took them back and fitted 410 units and no issues, they just seem to be having issues with 32.

To be honest i dont think they work as well as the 410 either, the room this was installed in was to replace the 410 unit, but in my opinion it doesnt seem to work as well.