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  1. #1
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    Apr 2014
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    R-12 to R-152a Conversion



    I have a 1994 Toyota pickup (Hi-Lux out of the US) that has had inoperative A/C since I bought the truck 15 years ago. I've finally decided to find what's broke and fix it as I convert it to something other than R12.

    While R-134a is a common conversion, I found some information on alternatives. Among the alternatives, R-152a (a.k.a. "Dust Off") raised its head as an alternative. So I threw caution to the wind and said "what the heck" and tried it this weekend.

    I had some trouble finding specific information about this conversion. I'm real interested in finding out what pressures I should expect to see in my system. Here's my experience, but note that this is from a highly suspect system:

    1. High pressure seems to be a steady 100 psi. Running or not. This seems a bit low compared to R-134a systems I've dealt with in the past.

    (this is where it gets strange):

    2. While charging (from a vacuum), low pressure side would not get above 15 psi.

    3. As soon as I shut off the R-152 supply, the low pressure side would drop to 15 in. Hg Vacuum. The pump would not shut off (so I suspect a bad pressure switch controling the compressor clutch).

    4. When I turn off the engine, the LP side would rise to 65 psi. This seems way high.

    5. Absolutely no cooling at the vent. 90F day, 95F+ vent temp with A/C on high and recirculating.

    Any information on R-152 and the expected pressures would be helpful. Any help in diagnosing my colling system based on the above would also be appreciated.

    aTdHvAaNnKcSe,



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Southampton, England
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    Re: R-12 to R-152a Conversion

    aTdHvAaNnKcSe - ha, cryptic.

    Never herd of the stuff but came across this:

    Case Study: http://www.sae.org/altrefrigerant/pr...presw-hill.pdf
    Pressure/Temperature Chart: http://www.hvacsuitemobile.com/HVACS...a_TP_chart.pdf

    65psi equates to 22*C ambient so would that be about right for your standing pressure?
    Would appear to be a bit short of charge from your description. How much did you put in?
    Either that or there is a restriction/blockage and when you turn the system off it equalises through the compressor. Don't know if that could happen mind...

    ChANeDerYs!
    Health and safety first..........unless I'm in a hurry.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Re: R-12 to R-152a Conversion

    Quote Originally Posted by Tayters View Post
    aTdHvAaNnKcSe - ha, cryptic.
    It's an oldie from the days of usenet. :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by Tayters View Post
    Never herd of the stuff but came across this:

    Case Study: http://www.sae.org/altrefrigerant/pr...presw-hill.pdf
    Pressure/Temperature Chart: http://www.hvacsuitemobile.com/HVACS...a_TP_chart.pdf
    Thanks! Yeah, that helps a lot. More than the dozens of Youtube videos on this.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tayters View Post
    65psi equates to 22*C ambient so would that be about right for your standing pressure?
    Yes. Makes sense now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tayters View Post
    Would appear to be a bit short of charge from your description. How much did you put in?
    I couldn't weigh the can, but less (I'd say much less) than a 10 oz. can. Given the ratio of the molecular weights between R-12 and R-152a (120.9 g/mol vs. 66.05 g/mol), I couldn't get a full charge. I'm still scratching my head how I can have 15 inches of vacuum, and no flow from the can to the manifold guage set. I've used this set to charge a more modern car with R-134a, and, as shown with the 65 psi with the engine off, some r-152a got into the system, so there's no blockage between in the charge line (or can tap). But a blockage in the Toyota's A/C system? After 15+ years without use, anything is possible.


    Quote Originally Posted by Tayters View Post
    Either that or there is a restriction/blockage and when you turn the system off it equalises through the compressor. Don't know if that could happen mind...

    ChANeDerYs!
    Time to open everything up and (at a minimum) blow things out. It will give me an opportunity to go through the system and replace O-rings, clean things out, and replace the oil.

    Thanks again,
    - Arved

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