Emailair fault

[Buddco]

Hi
I have been asked to look at a friends aircon which is just blowing room temp air. The model is cws026ha. I cant find any info online.
The outdoor unit has no life at all. No noises, no fan.
Im an electrician so not very clear on a/c units. Things I have checked. There is 240v from isolator then looped (connector) inside the outdoor and back to the indoor by the looks. The capacitor (compressor) 35uF tested at 26uF. I know this is a little low but I figured it shouldnt effect the running too much.
So now I figured it must be a problem with the indoor unit. The house is to be rented shortly and I couldnt get access to the inside unit. Was hoping someone would know this unit or possibly know a common problem.
Would be nice if it was just a fuse on the indoor. I could not see a PCB on the outdoor so figured the brains are inside.

Cheers.

[install monkey]

BONZA!- that ac is an airwell unit(in uk) found this link for wiring diagram and operation manual- u need to check the indoor for any flashing lights, ensure its set correctly ie cool 20 or heat 24 to get demand on the system,
http://trade.jng.com.au/home/folder/6480

[FreezerGeezer]

Well, you are not legally allowed to be doing this. Unless you're trade qualified as a fridgy, which you have indicated is not the case.
That capacitor has had it & needs to be replaced.
Have you checked any of the overloads, temperature & pressure switches?

Basically mate, if you aren't licensed don't risk it. Tell your mate to get a qualified fridgy in.
I'm happy to take a look, gratis, if it's on the GC.

[Buddco]

Thanks guys. Im in NT so a bit far away thanks FreezerGeezer.
I will replace the capacitor to save him some money then organise a fridgy.
Yep Install Monkey it was on demand, had it set to 18 cool for over 30min.

[Lynton]

Thanks guys. Im in NT so a bit far away thanks FreezerGeezer.
I will replace the capacitor to save him some money then organise a fridgy.
Yep Install Monkey it was on demand, had it set to 18 cool for over 30min.

Hi.

That capacitor is only for the compressor in that unit. It should start the outdoor fan at the very least regardless of that capacitors condition.
You should get 240v to number 4 for the compressor, 5 for the reversing valve and 6 for the condenser fan.
From memory, the pc board has a glass fuse in it. Can't remember exact size but can tell you that it protects the board, indoor fan motor, outdoor fan motor and the reversing valve. It does not protect the compressor.
As for you not being licenced.... as long as you don't touch the actual refrigerant side of things then I can not see why you can't work on it your self. You did say you are an electrician so it's not a problem.
If you are getting a flashing light on the indoor unit as soon as you power the unit up then it's most likely one of the sensors. There is the outdoor coil sensor (most common fault), indoor coil sensor and the air sensor.
The easiest way to check the indoor board fuse/pc board is actually from the outside of the unit. There should be a cable separate from the interconnecting 240v which goes to the outdoor coil sensor. If you disconnect this sensor you should then have 5volts dc coming from the indoor unit board. This is assuming that it is a reverse cycle unit.
Let me know if you need the sensor info as I can email it to you.

Regards,
Lynton

[Buddco]

Thanks for your info Lynton.
20140411_101907.jpg

Have attached a pic of the outdoor wiring. It looks to me they have run the wiring incorrect to start with and then made some adjustments.
So from looking at this which one should have the 5v dc when d/c?

Thanks

[FreezerGeezer]

Lynton, my understanding is that as a sparkie, even if you have a limited refrigeration licence that only covers you for installing or removal. You are not allowed to service or maintain the system.
There is a proposal for an extended licence that will allow sparkles to work on any plug in refrigeration equipment. The course will take 2 weeks.
I'm sure that will make any sparkie a world class Fridgie. Not.

To be fair I'm really not sure why a sparkie shouldn't be able to fault find the electrical side. But bay's the way I was led to believe the licence works.
Bear in mind that we are not legally allowed to install any cable over 24V - including interconnects for sits, power for splits, or even like-for-like wiring replacement with our limited electrical licences.
But in my experience, if you show most sparkies our Switch Boards, they have no clue.
I, for one, do NOT appreciate the powers that be dumbing down our trade & screwing us over.
That, however, is for another discussion & apologies to the OP if he finds my opinion offensive.

Now, to help our new member, the OP:
Buddco, from the wiring diagram I suspect the sensor will connect via the 'chocolate block' terminal to the right of the earth-6 terminal block in your photo. I can't make out any cables to/from it though.
I think Lynton means if you disconnect that sensor, you will see the 5V across the sensor cable from the indoor unit.
Now, it looks to me like someone has effectively bypassed the O/D fan control by linking the compressor control feed, T4, to the O/D fan feed, T6. Note that there is no feed to T5, which is the reversing valve feed. That's what gives heating, so it looks like this is a cooling only system & will not have the sensor as Lynton describes.
JNG's page (thanks for the link IM) indicates a heat pump system. If you look in the parts list, the compressor cap is listed as 25uF.
Better check that your 35uF is the correct size, and also check the compressor windings. Either someone has put a larger cap. in for some reason (comp. on it's way out perhaps?) or the parts list isn't accurate for your unit.
Hope that helps a bit

Edit: I suspect the 'wrong wiring' is that instead of it having been wired as power to the indoor unit (see the wiring diagram) the power supply is external to the building, so it's been routed through the outdoor unit using the BP connector, the earth, & the Neutral terminal.

[FreezerGeezer]

Here's a bit more fault finding:
If you have power to the indoor unit & the system is set to cool at 18*C for e.g. Then you should have a signal (probably 240V) on terminal 4. (This is assuming that any delay timers etc. in the indoor PCB have closed circuit).
If there is no voltage on T4, there's an issue with the indoor PCB. If there's a signal on T4, there's a fault in the O/D unit.
The wiring diagram does not show either an HP or LP switch, just an overload. So if this is made (closed circuit) the compressor should try to run. If the capacitor or the compressor motor are faulty, it won't. If the compressor is mechanically seized, it won't run. It'll pull relatively huge current trying to do so, assuming it doesn't pop the overload or whatever fuses, mcb's etc. are fitted.
Have a look for HP or LP switches - or anything else for that matter that isn't on the wiring diagram - by tracing out the wiring connected to the compressor. If you have 240V on T4, then something is stopping the comp. & fan from running.
Given the O/D fan is wired in with the compressor signal, I'm inclined to think that you aren't getting the cooling call on T4.

[Buddco]

Thanks again freezergeezer. Will let you know how i go.
I checked the identical unit adjacent and it also had a 35uF cap. Which was reading a little better (31uF)
Swapped the 25uF i bought for 35uF and will replace.
Just makes it hard when I couldnt get inside to turn units on.
Next time I go back this will not be the case and will post my findings.

Thanks again.

[Buddco]

Turns out it is the indoor board.
Need to buy a replacement. Does anyone know who stock these boards?

Thanks