Daikin error code - UA will it still work properly, or will it run at reduced perfo

[Apples]

Daikin error code - UA will my AC still work properly, or will it run at reduced performance.

So I have this error code UA.

Which is:

UA System Excessive number of fancoils
or
ua- can also mean incorrect capacity setting on indoor pcb also is the capacity set plug fitted- if a replacement pcb is fitted sometimes they dont send it (install monkey)

As I have this code, will my air conditioning cooling performance be reduced or anything? Are there any symptoms with this code.

I am also looking for a specific technical manual for this unit, will start a new thread.

[Darrenp]

Have you checked the dip switch settings on outdoor Pcb ? Has a new board been put in outdoor unit ?

[Darrenp]

This is an incorrect combination of units across the system.
This fault can occur when there are too many or too few indoor units connected to a system or when an outdoor PCB has been replaced and the DIP Switches have not been set up correctly. Check for any abnormalities in the communication wiring or set up the outdoor PCB with correct setting as detailed in the unit’s service manual.. Outdoor model number ?? Do you have it

[Apples]

Outdoor unit: RZP125DV1
Indoor unit: FDYP125DLV1

[Darrenp]

Split system .... Did you put new Pcb in

[Apples]

Split system .... Did you put new Pcb in

So your telling me thathis is then a split system, and not a pair. The controller has it set as a pair.

I do nor know if any pcb's have been changed.

[install monkey]

split unit -set it to single system

[Apples]

By single, you mean pair?

[Darrenp]

1 indoor , 1 outdoor

[Apples]

Lol, yeah. But when you set it up on the controller, you can set it up as: pair, twin, triple, and double twin

My unit has been set as "pair", which I think is correct. There is no "single" option that you mention, well at least it is not worded like that.

So I think that is set correct.

__________________________________________________________________

Here is a photo of my outdoor PCB.
All DS2 and DS3 dip switches are down/off.
There is nothing in the capacity setting adaptor (also nothing in the indoor unit either)

Daikin_outdoor_PCB_jumper_settings.jpg

So what now? with the UA code?

[Darrenp]

Is there a number after the ua ? I.e ua 01 ?? And so on

[Darrenp]

https://service.daikin.com/newweb/ai...al/M-11010.pdf

[Apples]

I only have this:

Unit no 0
1-UA

Daikin_error_code_1-UA.jpg


So from that link you just posted:

UA - 01

Description of error
Incorrect number of indoor units connected

Diagnosis of error
This error will be displayed if the locally-set number of indoor units is different from the detected number of indoor unit.

[Darrenp]

And there's only 1 indoor attached to this controller ?

[Darrenp]

Is there another controller onsite you can swap with ??

[Apples]

Yes only the one controller.
Nothing else to swap with.

[Apples]

I have just fired her up again today just in the last 20mins or so. I was flicking through the menu for the TEMP's.
-------------------------
Unit No. 00 41 Controller temp at wall?
31
------------------------
Unit No. 01 41 Temp of return air at blower fan?
33
------------------------
Unit No. 02 41 Temp of evaporator coil?
5
-----------------------

Note: When I first turned on the AC to cooling, that evaporator coil really shot down fast to about 4-5. Then whilst I was flicking through the rest of the 41 menu and eventually got back to it. The evaporator coil temp was then about 10-11.
Question: I want the coil temp to be at just above freezing temps. Not the 10-11 etc. On a hot day that coil temp will get up to 14 or more even. But what is it designed to be at? I have read that about 8-12 (I think) is optimum for removing humidity. Why can it just be at a few degrees above freezing to stop ice forming on the coil.
If the unit is physically able to pull it down to 4-5deg. C at start up, surely as hell is hot it must be able to then pull it down lower during normal running conditions when the whole system has settled. Right???

Another observation, the outside unit, the fans do not always seem to be going flat out. Now in a stinking hot day, or really any day if the unit is not cooling properly. Why are those fans not running flat out.
I read in the manual that yes they are designed to slow down so that the evaporator coil does not ice up. Fair enough, that is designed to do that. But in my case the coil does not even get anywhere near freezing temps to warrant the fan to slow down.

Going back to the menu 41. I decided to keep scrolling through menu 41 to see if there was anything else on there.

So I keep going and all there is ---, ---, ---, then I get to this;

-------------------------
Unit No. 08 41
33
------------------------
Unit No. 00 41
1 74
------------------------
Unit No. 04 41
1 39
-----------------------

What is this? Looks like another setup for another indoor unit? What they call "Centralized Group No. Setting" in the manual???

Would this mean that there are, what, 2 extra units setup in the controller or more?

I seem to have Unit numbers of: 00, 01, 02, 04, 08
And Group numbers of: nothing, then 1

Now does this look like it probable has something to do with that 1-UA code then?

[hyperion]

If this is a single split system with its own controller, then you should not get a Group No displayed.
It would appear that your controller is being used to possibly operate several other units in the area.
Have any of the other units been removed from the group but not from your controller?
As you say that there are no other controllers to swap with to check the suspect controller, we have to presume that there are other units within the building.
Normally in code 41 you only get the option to display readings 00,01,02 and 03 and sometimes 04. These will give the temperature readings at the wall controller, return air, suction pipe and liquid pipe. Not sure where the other numbers have come from.
The fact that there are no capacity plugs fitted, normally indicates that the PCB's are the original factory fitted. If one of the PCB's had been fitted and no capacity plug added, you would probably get a PJ fault code.
Presumably you have done a normal power restart and cleared any faults that are retained in the memory.

[Apples]

Only one outdoor unit and one indoor unit.
What do you call a normal power restart? I have had the circuit breaker off numerous times over the course of the last few days and weeks. From short time to long times, ie to let caps drain out. Then when back on again, those error codes still there.

Tried holding down the on off button on control panel to reset but nothing happened. Is there another way?

[frank]

does the red operation light on the controller blink or is it steady?

[Darrenp]

When controller is in normal screen , push the test button it will display the fault , then hold down power button until fault clears 00 ..

[Apples]

Operation light is steady on

[Darrenp]

Reset the fault ..clear it

[Darrenp]

Usually blinks on /off when in fault

[Darrenp]

You said earlier that it's about 10 years old ...so has this unit been running ok before hand ? If there's been these extra units attached , would this fault have always been there as it's only a split attached ??

[frank]

Operation light is steady on

You are looking at an old fault code then.

As Darrenp said, you need to press the bottom L/H grey button once to bring up the last fault code. Then press and hold the power button, next to the red operation lamp until the error code disappears, possibly upto 10 seconds. Once the last fault code has been deleted, your system will not display any fault codes until the next error occurs.

This is good practice, as it ensures that you are only looking at current faults, not old ones.

[Apples]

It has never had more that the one indoor unit ever.


I did try to reset via the controller before. So i hold test once then again and then the 40 code pops up with the error. Then i hold power for ages. Nothing happens. If i do this when the unit is on it switches off. If i do it when it is off it turns on.

I will try again this arvo, maybe i have not been holding the on off button longer.

[Apples]

Here watch the video I just took.

[hyperion]

You do not need to hold the Test button in, just touch it once. Then press and hold the On/Off button for 10 seconds. You system is not in fault at present. It is displaying an old fault code.

[Apples]

ohh okay, so don't even hold the test for the 4-5 seconds.

So I will do that now then.

If there is still an issue, when will it re detect the issue. On start up or just in half hours or so?

[Apples]

Ok, so when I did that by just tapping the test button, that error code went away.

Now when I still go back in via long press the test butting twice to menu number 40, that error code is still there. But it is gone if I just tap the test button once.


Also, I tapped test button once, then tapped it again and got

5 JC

tapped again and got

140

J J7

tap again

TEST

tap again back to normal.

What are those other values for?

[Apples]

I get 5 JC = JC Outdoor Malfunction of suction pipe pressure sensor
What does the number 5 mean?


I get J7 = J7 Outdoor Malfunction of heat exchanger liquid thermistor
What does the 140 mean
What does the first J in "J J7" mean


So these are old faults then?
Do I cycle to each one then hold power on/off to delete them one by one. Or can you do a "delete all" type thing?

[frank]

When you press the test button once, it displays the last fault code, and this is the one that can be deleted by pressing and holding the on/off power button for 10 secs.

When you go into service level 40, you are seeing the last 10 error codes. These cannot be deleted.

[AmeliaBrose]

http://airconditioningfaultcodes.blo...h/label/Daikin

Thnks for sharing blog link. could I downlod pdf for offline use ?

[Apples]

No I did not go into service level 40 to see those other two codes. They came up after pressing test again, then again. I did not hold it to get those other two codes up via the level 40 service menu.

Will tapping the test button scroll through all previous error codes? If so then do I simply delete them by scrolling to each one the hold down the power button, just like how I deleted the first code?

[frank]

Here watch the video I just took.

This shows that you are in Service Level 40

[Darrenp]

Don't worry about those other ones . As long as you just clear the 1st fault by quickly pushing test , hold power for ten secs and the error code will flash 00 .. Then run system ,any fault that occurres after this will flash up on main screen .. And red power light will also flash on off .. .. Does the system run once you have cleared the fault .. Run in 16 cooling , what happens , what's the off coil temp

[install monkey]

apples setting 40 is alarm history - shows the last 10 errors- stored in its memory- you cannot clear this

to see if your unit has a fault press test button once - if it shows a spanner and 00 all is ok

This shows that you are in Service Level 40

[Apples]

Ok thanks for explaining.

Ran AC on cold at 16deg. For 15-20mins today, no errors.

Coil temp was at 10deg. Should it be lower?

[frank]

Coil temp was at 10deg. Should it be lower?

It can be but the EEV control is decided by much more than just an evaporator temperature.

To determine if your unit is working at it's most efficient, you would need to be sure that the system is designed and sized correctly for the indoor load, the gas charge is correct, then measure running amps, Discharge pressure, evaporator suction pressure, condenser air on and off temperatures, indoor air on and off temperatures and plot the results onto a Mollier chart for the refrigerant type. All this must be done at or near design conditions.

[Darrenp]

Looking like it's ok and working ok , what was the air on / air off temp difference ?

[Apples]

Had it on today.. about 30deg C outside and 26 inside, set to 16deg.
Temp at wall control was about 29-30, sensor in unit 30, coil at 11.

Did not check air temp coming out of vents. Did not check air temp at return grill.

What humidity level should I be able to get the house to?

[install monkey]

did you clean your indoor coil out with compressed air? - usually the coil temp is around 5 deg on setting 41 on controller based on a 22-24 deg return air
have u cleaned the outdoor coil as inverter compressors operate within a design window- if it gets near out of range then it will slow down to protect itself

[frank]

I would check the gas charge....

[Apples]

The indoor coil I first tried to vacuum out with a brush attachment, yeah well that did not work. It's not like dust on the back of the television that easily sucks up. This stuff was obviously damp or something and did not want to come off. I gave up on that then tried the compressed air and not much happened there either. I think I need to take off the air plenum box so that I can blow through the fins from that way.

Ok, that is good to know that the coil should be usually around 5 deg.

The outside coil is in my opinion clean. It would obviously have a dust layer on it, like you would get on your car. But I would not expect that to make much of a difference. Maybe if it was caked on and blocking the fins etc.


Checking the gas charge. I do like this idea, because we have in the past had lost a lot of gas. I think that my unit may have had a defective condenser coil from the factory, well my vintage model of daikin unit. There were a batch of them that had leaks or something apparantly.

I am going to turn it on again and get the temps and see what it is now.

[Apples]

All doors and windows open, lovely night, cool breeze blowing through house.

Return air - 23.8
Control panel
-at wall - 26
- in roof - 24
- coil - 8

Closest supply vent - 14.8

Delta t = 23.8-14.8 = 9.0deg.

Outside temp and room temps 24.2 deg

Unit set to 16