Perlick Beer Dispenser DS32S Failure

[mjones1160]

I went to pour myself a fresh glass of beer from my tap a couple weeks ago and the beer was warm! I opened the door to the Perlick DS32S beer dispenser (kegerator) and the keg was warm as well. I hadn't poured a glass in a week so I didn't know how long the beer dispenser had been out of service. The compressor was running, the temperature control seemed to be working as well. I called Perlick, they gave me the number for a technician to come to my home ($95) to diagnose the problem. After taking a side panel off the beer dispenser he found that a low pressure refrigerant line was vibrating against the dispenser side panel causing a refrigerant leak. A sniffer detected refrigerant on the low-side line. The evaporator had what appeared to be a few pimples on the coil as well. Weird, both components failed? The low-side line rubbing on the stainless cabinet is a manufacturing defect. I have owned the unit for 6 years. The compressor is warranted for 5. There was also evidence of a gas leak on the inside of the cabinet near the low-side line (see pictures). The estimate to replace the evaporator, low pressure side line with a new filter drier came in at $1,074.00!

There was no confirmed leak from the evaporator. The technician saw what he thought looked like small pinholes. No refrigerant was detected. I am wondering if replacing the evaporator is really necessary. It's a $300 part!

I an waiting for a Perlick service representative to return my call. These are supposed to be top of the line reliable units.

Please advise...

[install monkey]

uu sure theyre not tryin to get some money outta you , get em to repair the pipe and pressure test it - maybe they can bring the evap coil but not charge you if they dont fit it- otherwise as its out of warranty get a buddy to fix it

[FEISTY]

I deal with most of the mfg. units out there and Perlick rates at the top for design and engineering. The evap coil is probably a Heatcraft as they provide most anyone's evap assemblies. The " pimples " you talk about could very well be in the gray epoxy coating used. Cosmetic but not a leak. Having a tube rubbing somewhere is not unusual and really not a design flaw. It can happen in shipping 6yrs. ago. A rub leak will be an issue much sooner than 6yrs. I would repair the tubing leak, change the drier and nitrogen pressure check the system before jumping on a new evap coil. If it holds pressure....let it fly. You can add a bit of UV dye when charging to help locate future " leaks " but you should have cold beer in no time. Anytime after the original 5yr compressor warranty is up is a free ride. You could buy a new unit with another 5yr comp. warranty that is a better cash investment than a thousand dollar repair. Good luck.

[mjones1160]

The Perlick referred repair technician from Luxury Appliance in San Dimas, CA replaced the L & S line today, It took him 2.5 hours. The system held a vacuum test for 5 minutes with no change in vacuum indicating no other leaks before 7 ounces of refrigerant was replaced. That was good news as the evaporator coil was suspect initially. Perlick was very nice for supporting their out of warranty product sending me the L & S line at no cost. The bad news is Luxury Appliance charged me $550.00 for the repair. When the old line came out, a lot of water spilled out of the insulation around the line. This water probably eroded the line. I cut a couple of holes on the low points of the new insulation to drain condensation that gets trapped. The DS32S cost me $1,300 new in 2008. That was an expensive repair. Again, I am thankful to Perlick for some relief.

[nike123]

This water probably eroded the line. I cut a couple of holes on the low points of the new insulation to drain condensation that gets trapped.

Insulation must be air tight and with moisture barrier. It should be glued to the pipe at beginning and at the end of segment. Longitudinal and orthogonal cuts must be glued and covered with self adhesive insulation tape. If you punch the hole in insulation, moist air comes in and condensate on cold pipe. That is why your old insulation has water inside, because of moist air is coming inside through some holes in insulation moisture barrier.