(Question from total novice) - Fridge is on but getting warm

[pugface]

I hope my message isn't out of place here but it seems that RE was the best place to come to get some expert opinion. Apologies if it's not.

I've a 5 year old FF (owner manual: http://dl.owneriq.net/7/7477f180-011...a24b9025cf.pdf) which has stopped refrigerating and freezing overnight. The condenser was clean but there was a fair collection of dust under the unit, which I've cleaned along with any dust around the compressor and the cavity it sits in.

There is a small amount of corrosion on the pipes leading to and from the compressor, photographed here:

fridge.jpg

Based on what I've read here, is this due to coolant leaking? The fridge 'alerts' me when it goes over 4 degrees c and nothing went off. I've read that a coolant leak would result in a temp drop from over days not hours.

The unit is on, the digital display tells me the fridge is 16 degrees and the freezer is 4 degrees. The compressor is very hot but doesn't sound as though it's operating. I can force compressor operation for 30 minutes by using the 'shopping' function but changing the thermostat to a lower temp (1 degree) does nothing.

Any advice appreciated. Is this a DIY job? Do I need to call out a pro or would it be more economical to get a new one?

Thanks

[install monkey]

if u got it from john lewis, isnt it gaurenteed for 5 yr- or is it just outta date, the system is on r600- isabutane, the corrosion u see on the joints is from flux residue from the silver soldered joints.
chances are as you say its gonna be short of gas if its performing badly.best to turn it off otherwise your going to cook the compressor and then the repair bill will go up

[Rob White]

.

If you fridge freezer failed overnight, it is a serious fault.
The corrosion on the pipes in your picture are not the issue
and it looks normal (different metals joined with solder and flux
tends to leave a residue that is sometimes confused with corrosion).

If the comp is hot and does not appear to be running generally points
to the compressor being faulty. The compressor is started by a relay
device and is protected by another device called a klixon that stops
it from running if it gets too hot or if it pulls to much current.

The only way to know for sure is to have the compressor tested and then
you will know if it is faulty or not. Compressors might not run for many
reasons but if the compressor is hot and not running it tends to be off
on thermal protection (klixon) and that tends to be for a reason.

If you have cleaned the dust away from it, let it cool for an hour and see
if the comp starts, if it does not, it could be serious, if it does, let it run
and see if it pulls down to temp.

Regards

Rob

.

[pugface]

Thanks both for your really helpful, and prompt, replies. I've unplugged and will check back in an hour or so. Sadly its out of warranty else I'd be on John Lewis's case! Thanks, again.

[pugface]

So I gave it a go and got 50% success..

The freezer is now working and back down to -17 but the fridge isn't.

Any further advice?

Thanks
Will

[The MG Pony]

check to see if air is geting from the freezer to the fridge, most have their cooling don by a bleeder door that allows fan air from the freezer to go to the fridge side, this is controlled by a bellows with a thermal static charge with an adjustment lever, if this is failed the door will not open enough inside.