k20 Ignis Blizzard icemaker issue with not starting

[xbox40489]

temp.jpg

Just to be thourough with this temperature range of the ice thickness thermostat that is causing me all this problem:

I added up here from the manual install monkey gave me. I think it from a k40 that manual because the compressor shows 915W even though i know for a fact the k20 that I have here consumes 400W.

But I would think the stats work the same, the pic shows you the off and on temperatures of both the ice thickness and the bin full thermostat.

The ice bin full stat does a clicking sound like a charm when I hold a piece of ice against the capillar.

It switches off already around 6 degrees C(min) to -2 degrees C(max).

I want to see this happen with the ice thickess thermostat -8 degrees C(min) to -15 degrees C(max).

But according to my test in december 2012 picture. Thee temperature I never reached more then -8.4 degrees C and below!

The treshold is at -8 C degrees though. So I had to put the dial at the minimum( - side of the

Attachment 9427
on the right side would be the minus sign.

So I need to start to dial it to the very minus side. Which is counter clockwise. Then you tell the ice thickness thermostat that it needs to click at -8 degrees C.

Would it be easier for me to have a ice thickness thermostat that triggers a bit higher then -8 C? I would say at -5C.

Because it is hard to get the whole machine to be -8C to -15C below there on the evaporator.

[xbox40489]

http://www.justanswer.com/uk-applian...libration.html

I found an article on the ice thickness thermostat.

The dude says something about adjusting the levels on the stat with a screwdriver.

Is this information relevant for me?

First the freezer test then I am going to check this method out.

[1mikeefc1]

Why do you need to do a freezer test? There is a setting on the stat that puts it on a forced harvest. If its on this setting and its not got continuity through the terminals it is faulty.

[install monkey]

just a though
Airconandy
rookie posterHey, I am new to : RE

Join DateJan 2011LocationWalesAge45Posts10Rep Power0

Re: whirlpool k20 ice machine

I had one last year that wouldn't harvest even after i had fitted 2 new stats it, i put it down to the plate not getting cold enough to set off the hot gas cycle. I put a new compressor on and it worked again. I can only assume that although the compressor seemed to be operating correctly it was in fact probably only operating at about 80% of its duty, i would be curious if anyone else has found this.

[nike123]

If ice production cycle is too long than problem is with refrigeration cycle.
With ice thickness thermostat at middle and normal ambient temperature with some ice in ice bin, ice production cycle should last between 30 and 45 min. If it is longer than that, compressor is inefficient or gas charge is problem, or capillary is partially clogged.

If any above is case, temperature of evaporator could be to high to trigger ice thickness thermostat to switch to harvest cycle. Therefore, it is essential to measure thermostat performance in order to conclude if it is necessary or not to do some work on refrigeration cycle.

[xbox40489]

If ice production cycle is too long than problem is with refrigeration cycle.
With ice thickness thermostat at middle and normal ambient temperature with some ice in ice bin, ice production cycle should last between 30 and 45 min. If it is longer than that, compressor is inefficient or gas charge is problem, or capillary is partially clogged.

If any above is case, temperature of evaporator could be to high to trigger ice thickness thermostat to switch to harvest cycle. Therefore, it is essential to measure thermostat performance in order to conclude if it is necessary or not to do some work on refrigeration cycle.

Back then i did stick THE thermometer (digital) right next to THE capillar ending of THE ice thickness thermostat. And i posted THE reading of This digital thermometer reaching -8.4 C.

So i still did not See harvest mode.

Was This à valid test? Or It Should be more? -15 C?

[xbox40489]

I have been playing with the old ice thickness thermostat.

And i pried it open since it is already broken.

The screw that you can access on the outside, is a spring to hold back a circuit from touching.

now i can see the mechanism go up and down also seen on the side of the ice thickness thermometer body.

it is a lever that is situated right next to the screw on the lower right side if you hold the pot meter to the sky.

i used my multimeter on a brand new ice thickness thermostat on both connections. And it is giving me continuity.

When I loosen up the screw(counter clockwise) the lever in question becomes easier to handle. Hence making it easier to have the clicking sound(disconnects the circuit! I also have no continuity because I have tested this on this new ice thickness thermostat. It stops beeping when the lever goes up!). That gives me the harvest mode.

the spring inside the metal casing is then less tense and will allow you to have a quicker clicking to the harvest cycle.

Now lets think how it work by itself to go to the clicking harvest mode.

IMG_3024.jpg

the temperature of the capillar drops to -8 C as you could have seen in my machine.

The gas will shrink and let the pressure down at the end of the capillar system and let eventually the harvest mode kick in(around -8 C).

this is also true the other way around. When its getting too hot and the gas in the capillar expands. Then the gas will push whatever the thing is on the thermostat to push the lever up to make a connection. Hence putting this back into (energising the ice thickness thermostat by closing the circuit)the ice making mode.


Now this is what I have been thinking, when I have the screw on the spring too tight and avoiding it to be able to have the click sound at -8C(the click sound goes in when the circuit is disconnected) then it will never go to harvest mode.

And I think then this might be my problem altogether.

===

Also if the gas in the capillar does not work properly by turning the screw I would just alleviate the clicking(turning to harvest mode). Then you would think it works a little bit.

It would require little work to make it into the harvest mode. And it is really hard to make it into the set harvest mode temperatures of -8C to -15 C.

Seeing my ambient temperature is around 28 C!

Making it impossible inside this ice maker to reach lower temperatures like -10 C or -11 C, -12 C, -13 C or -14 C and -15 C.

It is not that the ice making cycle does not work the compressor works just fine withing 55 min each cycle back when it was working fine but I must say then in a colder ambient temperature(The Netherlands where I was living befo).

Right now in The Netherlands it is 1 C and in St Maarten it is now 28 C.


So the question is here back to the screw you can turn in this ice thickness thermostat, should I loosen the screw a bit and give it a test run?

Let me know.

[xbox40489]

Testing the ice thickness stat:

I loosen up the screw today of the ice thickness thermostat and gave the ice maker a test.

I started to turn the knob all the way counter clockwise.

After having it run without water for a few minutes, I forced the ice thickness stat to harvest mode. This I did by lifting the lever that you can force outside. When loosen it a little bit it becomes easy to lift.

The lifting causes a click which happens when it reached the harvest cycle.

This action turns off the pump.

But the evaporator did not feel hot or warm like it should do. I did not feed the machine water so I do not know if the solenoid opened up.

But I held the ice thickness stat to harvest mode for a while no change.

Does it mean the warm element the valve coil (defrost coil) valve coil (defrost coil) does not work properly and should be tested or looked at?

Let me know.

[1mikeefc1]

When its in harvest do you have hot gas coming out from the hot gas valve? If it is warm before and not after then check there is power to the sol coil if there is and no heats coming through it would sound like a faulty hot gas valve. Out of interest how long does it take to make a nice thick slab of ice? You want it thick but not so thick it won't go through the flap onto the cutter grid.

[xbox40489]

When its in harvest do you have hot gas coming out from the hot gas valve? If it is warm before and not after then check there is power to the sol coil if there is and no heats coming through it would sound like a faulty hot gas valve. Out of interest how long does it take to make a nice thick slab of ice? You want it thick but not so thick it won't go through the flap onto the cutter grid.

How much is it to replace the hot gas valve?

I can slap a multimeter to the black and blue cable and make the harvest cycle kick in(force it) and see what the multimeter gives me(should be 220V).

If the coil is faulty it is just replacing the coil(the black thing that heats up)? Or the whole thing?

I can test the coil for being energised in the harvest mode and let you know.

==

I have tested the ice making cycle before and it should take around 55 min to 1 hr to make a big slab.

[1mikeefc1]

Test the coil but if "the black thing" is warm It sounds like you have a supply to it. Not sure on cost of one but its the solenoid valve you want not the coil if there is heat to it and not going to evap on the pipework. Is the stat now operational and putting a feed to harvest when needed?

[1mikeefc1]

Might be a silly question but do you have your gas handling certificate? If not you won't be able to remove the gas and replace the valve.

[xbox40489]

Solenoid valve or valve coil (defrost coil) ?

u mean the water inletvalve? that is replaced already recently.

But I need to check on both if it energises.

Right now I do not know it the ice thickness thermostat switches when it needs to do so.

Because I have switched it by hand(forcing it with a flat screwdriver).

This was to see if the other items were working.

And no I do not have a certificate to change anything that is including gas.

[1mikeefc1]

Ok this explains a few things, the valve I am talking about is what the solenoid coil( black thing) is operating(sat on) when it energises it should open up and flow hot gas to the evap plate causing the ice to melt and drop onto the cutter grid. If the coil has power to it on harvest and no heat is getting there the valve body itself will require changing by a fully qualified and certified specialist.

[xbox40489]

So we establish the clicking manually means the ice thickness stats are oke and working by checking the continuity(beeps when energises/ice making mode) and when continuity goes off(circuit is off and does not energise/harvest mode)?

I can check the this tomorrow quick and let you know if the other one I bought ice thickness stat is good.

But keep in mind when testing these stats i will not get a automatic cycle change to harvest mode as yet not even at -8.4C!

Cause the treshold was reached at least -8C and still no clicking in sight. I did turn the screws a little to calibrate it but still wont give me a click by itself.

==

On to the black thing. I need to check if it energises when the harvest mode is on(forcing it with a screwdriver). And that I do with a multimeter to see the voltage go up to 220V+.

And if this energises and does not heat up your explanation is that the whole thing needs changing? I think I will need to check it and see. The hot gas might be working in the capillar but if that piece(black thing) is not working properly then it might be that square thing itself that is broken.

But I will let you know by tomorrow.

[xbox40489]

Allright guys,

I did two tests today:

1)
I measured the voltage over the inletvalve when the harvest mode was on:

178V ACV

Did not bother to connect the waterpipe to test it but this one is bought new probably without having to do so. But should energise it to have some water coming in.

2)
I measured the voltage over the valve coil (defrost coil)(aka the black thing next to the compressor underneath next to the pipes etc.)

This gave me also around 178V.

First I see it energised after having ran the ice making cycle for a few minutes. And i did not see any change, it was supposed to melt the evaporator. But turns out I had the coil slipped on the other way.

So the function of the valve coil (defrost coil) never kicked in when in harvest mode.

So I slipped the valve coil (defrost coil) on the capillar end the right way. Boom! All ice melted on the evaporator.

So the only piece that is keeping me from making ice cubes is the damn ice thickness thermostat!

I need to test it now for a cycle now see if it kicks in anytime.

I am doing without water so should freeze up quickly.

Any tips on these Faulty stats?

I need to research the screws on top of this stat. How to callibrate it.

I got two of them right now one in the machine and one outside the machine.

If I was to test this I need to throw it in the freezer and see if the stat clicks?

Let me know now!

I am quite happy to have solved the valve coil (defrost coil)! This was all the time on the reverse way pulled on the capillar.
IMG_3058.jpg

By the way in the pictures shows you how it was the right way to pull the defrost coil over the capillar down below next to the compressor.

I had it the other way around. All this time.

Also I see the machine getting to lower temperatures much quicker right now. -14.2C right now in only 19 min without water ofcourse.

Waiting for it to kick in the defrost cycle.

Let's see!

[xbox40489]

"This is what Whirlpool has for the thickness calibration.

K20lK40
ADJUSTING THE ICE CUBE THICKNESS
lce cube thickness is pre-set at the factory. The thickness can be increased or
decreased by turning the thermostat knob with a screwdriver. Turning the
knob clockwise increases the thickness, turning it anti-clockwise decreases
the thickness. By means of the thermostat knob it is possible to adjust the
variations due to the ambient temperature, when it is higher than 32'C and
lower than 10'C.
- Never turn the thermostat knob outside the field indicated on the dial.
- Adjust the ice thickness thermostat only after a few hours operation and
only after the bin has half-filled with ice cubes.
- Non-observance of the thermostat setting rule could result in damage to
the ice maker, especially if the thermostat knob is left on a low getting in a
high room temperature.
In this case the ice could become so thick the ice will not cut. On the other
hand, the ice thickness could be reduced to a minimum or none at all."

source:

http://www.justanswer.com/uk-applian...libration.html

So I need to loosen the screw to have it less thick. Triggering will be easier and the slab smaller?

Ok let me think loosening(turn anti clockwise) the screw applies less pressure to the lever it is holding on to.

There is spring in between the screw and the lever.

So to make it easier to click(harvest cycle) means the gas inside the capillar works on cold and it basicly shrinks . This makes the coil in the housing also shrink and become small and apply less pressure so the lever can touch and make the circuit of the harvesting happen.

This will in return warm up the capillar of the ice thickness thermostat. Which expands the gas inside it and therefore pushing up the lever to avoid it touching.

So I conclude I need to make the harvest cycle kick in easy. This I can do by loosening the screw. Easier harves cycle achieved that way.

Tightening will only make the ice thickness stat delay the harvest cycle.

So I will check into loosening the screw tomorrow and see what happens.

[1mikeefc1]

Glad you got to the bottom of it hope the ice is worth all the time and effort you put in. :-)

[xbox40489]

Glad you got to the bottom of it hope the ice is worth all the time and effort you put in. :-)

Well I havent gotten the problem solved as yet!

I only see the ice thickness thermostat is not switching.

I am doing a waterless run today I will let it sit there for an hour or so after opening up the screw on the ice thickness thermostat.

But one thing difference is that it cools down the evaporator way quicker after I had flipped the heat coil.

So now to have it switch by itself now instead of by hand.

Any one of you have tips on callibrating this ice thickness thermostat?

And I have gotten some tips to make sure the tip of the capillar touches the evaporator and also to put the excess capillar curled up under the evaporator so it can keep even cooler. So harvest cycle is closer.

Well ice is in the Caribbean pretty much a necessity almost. So hopefully this machine get fixed.

[spimps]

You could, check the suction pressure when running. Extract refrigerant and weigh, re charge with exact weight check suction pressure again to compare. Trying to adjust differentials on a stat is 90% likely to fail. There are also a couple of variations of stats which I fell foul of once.

[xbox40489]

You could, check the suction pressure when running. Extract refrigerant and weigh, re charge with exact weight check suction pressure again to compare. Trying to adjust differentials on a stat is 90% likely to fail. There are also a couple of variations of stats which I fell foul of once.

I bought two ice thickness thermostats already. Read my earlier posts.

And I obviously changed it from the factory settings now. No going back.

Should I try with reordering another? Would be my 3rd and I would leave it in factory settings.

I can not understand what you mean with extracting refrigerant and suction pressure.

I am new to this.

I guess I can only replace items and play with the calibration.

By the way when I do force the trigger on the ice thickness thermostat to harvest mode.

It goes back automaticly back to the ice making cycle.

That it does though.

So I should assume playing with the differentials on the stat is my only hope or just buckle down and reorder one unless there is a way how to callibrate these stats by hand.

If there is I would do that other then refill refrigerant etc and checking pressure.

[xbox40489]

Adjusting the Harvest Thermostat

If your ice thickness control doesn't respond properly, but your sensing bracket seems to be properly in place, it is possible the thickness control thermostat itself has simply drifted out of calibration and just needs an adjustment. This is an easy repair, assuming you ruled out the loose bracket first. Remove the escutcheon plate from the front, exposing some tiny adjustment screws on the thickness control for the cut-in and cut-out temperature setpoints. You can twiddle those adjustments. The cut-out screw sets the colder temp for the harvest trigger, the cut-in screw sets the warmer temp to end the harvest. Set the control (knob) to the middle of the thickness range, and wait for the ice to build to a medium thickness, and then adjust the cut-out screw until it triggers the harvest. These screws have a range of several turns of adjustment, so you may have to turn them 1/2 or a full turn before you see any difference in performance. When making these adjustments, count the turns you apply to either screw, making notes of that, so you can return the control to its prior settings if you get lost.

Even if the bigger problem is the loose evaporator bracket, you can compensate to an extent by adjusting to cut-out setpoint on the thickness control to a warmer temperature. But you won't have fixed the problem in the long run, and the thickness control will be poorly responsive since the thermostat doesn't have a solid thermal contact with the evaporator plate. Poor response can result in harvest intervals that start too soon, too early, or inconsistently; and also in harvest times that are too short or too long.

If you want to adjust the harvest thermostat to shorten the harvest time, remember that the harvest time is deliberately longer than the time needed to just refill the reservoir. The reservoir is flushed with an excess of refill water, which then overflows into the drain tube, so that the high mineral content of the old water is replaced with new water.

source:

http://www.truetex.com/icemachine.htm

i found this method I am going to try it.

I am going to take a wild guess that the External screw on the stat is the cut-in screw(sets the warmer temp to end the harvest).

And the Internal screw is the cut-out screw(sets the colder temp for the harvest trigger).

Let me know.

IMG_3024.jpg

I have to deal with the internal screw only until it triggers the cut out setting for the harvest cycle.

[install monkey]

tip, make sure ur drain from the bin has a good fall, as when it goes on harvest mode, it fills the trough and excess water will drain, your 1st batch of ice will defrost before the next batch drops, keep the door shut,and lets hope ur bin stat cuts out when ice fills the bin!- im impressed with your perseverance

[monkey spanners]

Manuals, trouble shooting and spare parts guides can be downloaded here,

http://www.whirlpoolk20.co.uk/

Seem to remember there is a heater for the ice thickness/defrost stat BUT!!!! i could be thinking of a different machine. Think it heats the stat so it actually gives it a false impression of the temperature.

Part n. 451 0 on list on one of the downloads in the link, and L10 on wiring diagram. BUT it may only be on the K40 model.

Dirty condenser is also listed as causing similar faults, as would a dirty evap, as the thing defrosts but the ice don't move much if at all as it it gripped by the dirty on the evap.

[xbox40489]

On my old and broken ice thickness thermostat i have got:

A03 0116 B444
WHIRL CAT*

The other two I ordered are:

A03 0116 H*
E351 WHIRL

Both of them.

Searching on google I encountered:

http://www.ascateringsupplies.com/pa...pCode=ASC00954

Ice Thickness Stat - Whirlpool Ice Machine - ASC00954 (£28.99)

A03 0116 E287

So they claim to be E287 and what I have 2 of are: E351

What does those E number mean?

Are these all fit for the Ignis Blizzard 20(k20)

I own an Ignis.

[monkey spanners]

Thought they are the same with different label on them but not sure. Last one i worked on we ended up scrapping as it was getting expensive to run. You would be half way to a new one with the money you have spent so far on parts.

[xbox40489]

Thought they are the same with different label on them but not sure. Last one i worked on we ended up scrapping as it was getting expensive to run. You would be half way to a new one with the money you have spent so far on parts.

electricity wise?

yeah these things are old and not energy efficient any more.

maybe the newer model are but right now no money for that one.

[xbox40489]

Manuals, trouble shooting and spare parts guides can be downloaded here,

http://www.whirlpoolk20.co.uk/

Seem to remember there is a heater for the ice thickness/defrost stat BUT!!!! i could be thinking of a different machine. Think it heats the stat so it actually gives it a false impression of the temperature.

Part n. 451 0 on list on one of the downloads in the link, and L10 on wiring diagram. BUT it may only be on the K40 model.

Dirty condenser is also listed as causing similar faults, as would a dirty evap, as the thing defrosts but the ice don't move much if at all as it it gripped by the dirty on the evap.

the evap is as clean as a whistle.

Dirty condenser maybe.

Dirty condenser means it cools less good therefore not clicking to harvest mode? My ambient temperature is around 28C in this room.

I blame the ambient temperature. In a colder ventilated place it would switch up to harvest i would think.

But I still do not know now why the ice thickness stat does not click by itself to harvest mode.

I also found out about the forcing the ice thickness thermostat to harvest mode by turning it counter clockwise untill you hear a click. This let the spring that is attached to the screw inside to slide closer to the connectors side(green and yellow(ground) and the blue and the black and red cable). It alleviates the pressure put on the piece of metal that is raising the other piece of metal on top to make the click.

Underneath that piece of metal that does the click is the expanding and the shrinking balloon like membrane that pushes the piece of metal to make the click to harvest mode.

Or shrinks to let it go back to ice making mode.

[1mikeefc1]

The ambient wouldn't cause the stat to be faulty it would only cause the machine to stop making ice as the compressor would over heat and go off on its o/load.

[xbox40489]

The ambient wouldn't cause the stat to be faulty it would only cause the machine to stop making ice as the compressor would over heat and go off on its o/load.

it is making ice allright but there is no stopping in sight.

So its the ice thickness thermostat is the problem.

Any one knows how else to calibrate this?

I need clear instructions to do so.

[xbox40489]

Do you all recommend me buying another ice thickness thermostat?

Cause we determined that is the only thing that does not switch.

Since I even measured with the digital thermometer that it feels freaking cold up to -19.3 C running without water!

And the Stat still would not switch!

Alternatively I can stick the 2nd stat I have here(also new)one in tomorrow and connect the wires and give it a test without water.

[1mikeefc1]

It still sounds like the stat I've never needed to re-calibrate one yet and I've replaced a lot. Just out of interest why are you testing without water?

[xbox40489]

It still sounds like the stat I've never needed to re-calibrate one yet and I've replaced a lot. Just out of interest why are you testing without water?

In 6 min without water the evaporator plate can go up to -1 C degrees quickly.

in this site about fixing these ice makers:

http://www.truetex.com/icemachine.htm

" Repairing the Harvest Thermostat Solder Attachment

The older design of this machine used electromechanical controls, including a harvest thermostat on the evaporator plate that clicks on and off with the ice slab temperature. If your machine uses the newer electronic controls, you will have an electronic thermistor on the evaporator instead of electromechanical thermostat, and this section does not apply. "

Do they carry electromechanical controls stat? for these ice makers?

It might have to do with the plate not being soldered good enough to the evaporator plate.

But I think I do not have that problem if my digital temperature goes up to -19.2 C!

It is now just down to these stats that don't want to switch they do switch back to ice making cycle though when you force it to harvest cycle.

No one could have told me about the click that it makes when you force it all the way anti clockwise?

I found out about this last week.

Well i hate to buy one that factory calibrated and have them send it again in a few weeks.

But maybe these stats i have been getting are just faulty. They don't want to switch. but do switch back by itself when it becomes hot.(expanding gas) pushes the lever to the top.

[1mikeefc1]

I told you to turn it anticlockwise all the way and a bit more to click it onto forced harvest about a week ago and you did not respond by saying you had tried it. This is the best way to check the harvest cycle.

[1mikeefc1]

Just re read the post from 29/03/13 1129.

[xbox40489]

ah i replaced the ice thickness thermostat today, the other one was not neatly installed hence the no clicking to harvest mode.

anyways i installed the other one that I had around and i am giving it a test now.

i will let you know if it worked.

[xbox40489]

It's changing now to harvest mode by itself.

I put in a 2nd ice thickness thermostat I had.

I need to do some tests now with water(tedious). Put the dial on the furthest anti clockwise(according to me the thickest ice)

And see the thickness of the ice blocks see how it goes now.

I need to say the first ice thickness thermostat wasn't correctly installed.

The nut on the plate below the evaporator was not tighten enough and also the capillary was stuck directly inside straight. Not U shaped at all.

Plus the reversed defrost coil did not help at all. I must have reversed it when I was checking it a few months ago by accident.

I will keep you all updated after the tests.

Success-Kid-e1356573296522.jpg

[xbox40489]

The slab of ice pictured is a cycle of around 55 minutes.

So far it works fine. I am going to give it good clean tomorrow.

Any tips of cleaning the machine?

I had baking soda and water using.

[1mikeefc1]

Be careful what you use to clean as if you damage any of the evap the ice will stop sliding off it, personally I would use hot water and an old toothbrush to get to any nooks and crannies but no chemical cleaners.

[install monkey]

does ur misses know u use her toothbrush???

Be careful what you use to clean as if you damage any of the evap the ice will stop sliding off it, personally I would use hot water and an old toothbrush to get to any nooks and crannies but no chemical cleaners.

[xbox40489]

does ur misses know u use her toothbrush???

LOL.

The instruction manual of the machine says you can use baking soda+water for the interior(bin reservoir+door gasket).

And for the whole inner piping and water tank you use 40 min with 1/10 L(100 ml) of vinegar and 1,5 L water. Press both buttons in green+blue(cleaning cycle)

Drain this mixture to a next bucket afterwards.

Followed by cleaning cycle of 1,5L water and 2 tablespoons of backing soda(soda bicarbonate) for 5 min.

Then at last you use 1,5L water to run cleaning cycle for 5 min again to rinse out.

About an hour work.

Twice a year.

====

The condenser and motor compartment, I have nothing to clean but a paint brush or toothbrush. I heard you can use a vacuum cleaner)

By the way I do not have the plug for the reservoir.

Is this needed according to you all? It helps isolate the cold air to go outside for one.

It blocks the drained air to come back to your ice but how would the melted ice water leave the reservoir if you have it plugged in?

[xbox40489]

I'll update with pictures when i am done.

[1mikeefc1]

does ur misses know u use her toothbrush???

I have to eat her cooking so I call it payback!!

[xbox40489]

I have to eat her cooking so I call it payback!!

It baffles me when the advertisement of this machine(k20) says it does cycles of 17 min.

Should I think thin ice blocks?

Oh I see the description says between parenthesis "dependent on water temperature.

Well the water here comes in normal room temperature, maybe its 24-26 C.

It feels cold in the shower.

Ambient temperature here is 26-32 C.
====

Energy Consumption: 0.26kW per kg of ice

Is this accurate? My old machine should take more time to make that amount of ice I will think.

Maybe half that amount?

I recorded ice making cycles before and the cycles were:

cycle (time spend)

0:49
0:51
0:55
0:53


If the Kwh usage is right then it roughly use about 0.26kW per cycle(I get 1 slab every hour) which is taking a little bit less then an hour.

Each cycle(slab of ice) would make an kg of ice? I do not know this one.

Here each KWH will run you about a little more then 33 ct usd.

So roughly will produce 4 cycles with that energy.

12 cycles would be a 1 usd.(takes 12 hours)
24 cycles would be 2 usd!

The water flow(usage) you can control with the filter valve. My waterfilter has a plastic valve you can open and close to control the waterflow for less water loss or more water.

The tank needs to get rid of the mineral full water that goes to the drainpipe by adding a fresh batch of filtered water.

I think the tank holds about 1,5L-2L of water.

=====

Water quality:

http://www.buydirectwaterfilters.com.../t_d_s__meter/

A TDS Meter indicates the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) of a solution, i.e. the concentration of dissolved solids in it. Since dissolved ionized solids such as salts and minerals increase the conductivity of a solution, a TDS meter measures the conductivity of the solution and estimates the TDS from that.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TDS_meter

I was looking at this tds meter, do you recommend me getting it? This is to measure the filtered water. I use a Everpure 4H which has been in use, but not for very long period of time.

Do you guys use this to see if the filter needs replacing?

=====
Ice storage:

What do you guys use to store the ice in the freezer? An air tight stainless steel container?

We are probably going to use the machine for 4 persons in the house.

But left over ice can be stored away in the freezer.

It tends to stick together in the freezer with ziploc bags. Probably need to get a ice pick.

https://www.google.nl/search?hl=nl&q...HpC08QT3qoDoAQ

These bins would take a lot of space in the freezer.

I resorted to use ziploc bags to bag the small amount of ice.

The ice blocks will probably stick together in the freezer(melting and freezing) I need to invest in a ice pick.

==ice.jpg

[install monkey]

move the bin stat so it produces less ice to save energy

[xbox40489]

move the bin stat so it produces less ice to save energy

You mean move it lower so the ice below can touch easily? Therefore making only the amount of ice you want.

[install monkey]

yep, you only need enough ice for 4 people so instead of having a bin full of stale ice either put a plastic container in the base to reduce the bin volume or move the probe lower so it wont hold as much, the k20 ice machine should make 24kg of ice in 24 hrs, ambient temperatures, high water inlet temperatures and loss of performance will affect the running costs
also ice slab should be 10-12mm thick, it states 17 min cycles, after the initial 45min first batch
lce Production
Cube Size
Thickness (Variable)
Storage bin capacity
Length of cycle
Ventilation
Gondenser
Ambient Range
Voltage
Connection
Dimensions(H xWxD)
..'i/eight
Can be built in?
Drain Connection
Water Gonnection
Compressor
Gas Gharge
ElectricaLl oading
24KG/24HOURS
35OOC UBES/ 2 4 HOURS
60-70C ubesA pproxP. erC ycle
29 X 29MM
10 - 12MM
lOKG
17MINS
1STC YCLEW ILLT AKEU PTo4 5MINS
DEPENDENOTN W ATERT EMP
BOTHSIDERSE QUIRVEE NTILATION
50mmM in.C learancea chs ide
AIRCOOLED
13'C to 43"C
240volts5 0hz
13ampP lug
590x555x535
38kg
NO
30mm
% BSP
ASPIRAC OMPRESSONRB 11 1 6 2
0.17k9R 134a
400Watts

[xbox40489]

yep, you only need enough ice for 4 people so instead of having a bin full of stale ice either put a plastic container in the base to reduce the bin volume or move the probe lower so it wont hold as much, the k20 ice machine should make 24kg of ice in 24 hrs, ambient temperatures, high water inlet temperatures and loss of performance will affect the running costs
also ice slab should be 10-12mm thick, it states 17 min cycles, after the initial 45min first batch
lce Production
Cube Size
Thickness (Variable)
Storage bin capacity
Length of cycle
Ventilation
Gondenser
Ambient Range
Voltage
Connection
Dimensions(H xWxD)
..'i/eight
Can be built in?
Drain Connection
Water Gonnection
Compressor
Gas Gharge
ElectricaLl oading
24KG/24HOURS
35OOC UBES/ 2 4 HOURS
60-70C ubesA pproxP. erC ycle
29 X 29MM
10 - 12MM
lOKG
17MINS
1STC YCLEW ILLT AKEU PTo4 5MINS
DEPENDENOTN W ATERT EMP
BOTHSIDERSE QUIRVEE NTILATION
50mmM in.C learancea chs ide
AIRCOOLED
13'C to 43"C
240volts5 0hz
13ampP lug
590x555x535
38kg
NO
30mm
% BSP
ASPIRAC OMPRESSONRB 11 1 6 2
0.17k9R 134a
400Watts

hmmmm,

every slab of ice is 10x7 = 70 cubes

In 2:40 hrs I had two slabs and 3rd one on its way.

So this machine speed is probably like 70 cubes each hr more or less.

in 24 hrs, it will crank up 24x70 = 1680 cubes!

The cubes to be honest are thick though, they are like 8-12 mm.

3500/1680 =

2.083333333333333 times slower then it should.

====

Every cycle it takes like the initial cycle. This is around 55 minutes.

55 minutes

3 min harvest 1(58 min)

55 minutes(1:53)

3 min harvest 2.(1:56)

55 minutes(2:51)

3 min harvest 3.(2:54)

55 minutes(3:49)

3 min harvest 4.(3:52)

55 minutes(4:47)

3 min harvest 5.(4:50)

55 minutes(5:45)

3 min harvest 6.(5:48)

55 minutes(6:43)

3 min harvest 7.(6:46)

55 minutes(7:41)

3 min harvest 8.(7:44)

55 minutes(8:39)

3 min harvest 9.(8:42)

55 minutes(9:37)

3 min harvest 10.(9:40)

55 minutes(10:35)

3 min harvest 11.(10:38)

55 minutes(11:35)

3 min harvest 12.(11:38)

55 minutes(12:33)

3 min harvest 13.(12:36)

55 minutes(13:31)

3 min harvest 14.(13:34)

55 minutes(14:29)

3 min harvest 15.(14:32)

55 minutes(15:27)

3 min harvest 16.(15:30)

55 minutes(16:25)

3 min harvest 17.(16:28)

55 minutes(17:23)

3 min harvest 18.(17:26)

55 minutes(18:21)

3 min harvest 19.(18:24)

55 minutes(19:18)

3 min harvest 20.(19:21)

55 minutes(20:16)

3 min harvest 21.(20:19)

55 minutes(21:14)

3 min harvest 22.(21:17)

55 minutes(22:13)

3 min harvest 23.(22:16)

55 minutes(23:11)

3 min harvest 24.(23:14)

55 minutes(24:09)

=================

24 ice harvests in 24:09 hrs

one harvest equals, 70 cubes.

(every slab of ice is 10x7 = 70 cubes)

24 x 70 cubes = 1680 cubes

===

The newly introduced water that refreshes the mineral full water in the tank(when in harvest mode) is about 24-28 C.

This might be the explanation that it takes 55 min to cool off the water on the evaporator and to start making ice.

Sometimes it takes about 30 minutes just to get the digital thermometer under the evaporator to reach 0 degrees C!

I have the digital thermostat attached under the evaporator plate still to monitor the temperature at all times.

===

I will make a run tomorrow with pictures with their temperatures every 10 minutes interval.

0 min @ x degrees C
10 min @ x degrees C
20 min @ x degrees C
30 min @ x degrees C
40 min @ x degrees C
50 min @ x degrees C
55 min @ x degrees C

That can explain a lot.

Fact is the water you guys are getting out of your pipes are probably more chilled then the water over here. It looks like the machine is struggling to chill the water before forming the ice hence the longer ice making cycle.

Or the gas needs to be looked at. (134a). I have not much knowledge of this so I won't even think about that.

Also this is not a new machine so it might have to do with it too?

[xbox40489]

Today I have taken a look at the condenser and there was a lot of dust settled in the grill.

Should make a little bit of difference now.

[xbox40489]

Is the machine working normal? if the harvest mode makes the evaporator close to 40C and then the inletvalve closes/heat coil(black thing) and there is a pause.

The temperature drops.

Then around 30C the compressor kicks in and goes back to work.