k20 Ignis Blizzard icemaker issue with not starting

[install monkey]

if you cannot move it to a cooler location- can u blow air onto the condenser inlet to see if the bugger goes into harvest mode- if the evap makes ice,ice is an insulator and your thickness stat does click when you test it in the freezer- then it may just be out its operating limits- as most uk systems 30deg is the time when they start to fail, theres a site im going to in the next few weeks,there was an old k20/k40- will have a look if its still there to take a piccy of the wiring for you

[xbox40489]

http://www.justanswer.com/uk-applian...libration.html

I found an article on the ice thickness thermostat.

The dude says something about adjusting the levels on the stat with a screwdriver.

Is this information relevant for me?

First the freezer test then I am going to check this method out.

[xbox40489]

Small update 2:

The new ice bin thermostat is at the post office.

I need to run a test after I install it and slap a thermometer next to the capillars end. To see if the triggering happens at around -8C.

[xbox40489]

The new thermostat for the ice maker thickness arrived. I still need to replace the other one to test it.

But I would like to have a digital thermometer on the side to test out the trigger temperature.

Or I just replace it and do a test without one.

[xbox40489]

I did a new test with the new thermostat for ice thickness.

Basicly the pump stopped pumping water after a while.

I found out the stop for the tank fell down and there was probably no water to be pumped so it went to freeze the whole thing.

But right now the pump stopped.

I dont have the water supply hose connected.

So I met the evaporator plate full of ice. white ice.

Not sure if this means the NEW ice thickness thermostat worked this time. But the pump stopped working.

But isnt the gas coil heater supposed to kick in and the defrost cycle kick in.

Not sure how to read this.

But I am letting it cool down and test it out another time probably with a water supply in.

I think the hot gas thing did not kick in.

[xbox40489]

Ok I left it to defrost and the pump is unblocked now. So the only thing that stops the pump is the ice thickness thermostat. It went up back to the 8 C and its free to spin.

And the compressor should be working too.

I attached back the stop of the watertank tightly this time filled the watertank with water and I am giving it another run.

I want to see it reach defrost mode....

[xbox40489]

but the no water thing did stop the pump from spinning! so what do i have to conclude from this? i need a thermometer to know what is going on the ice thickness thermostat.

[nike123]

If ice production cycle is too long than problem is with refrigeration cycle.
With ice thickness thermostat at middle and normal ambient temperature with some ice in ice bin, ice production cycle should last between 30 and 45 min. If it is longer than that, compressor is inefficient or gas charge is problem, or capillary is partially clogged.

If any above is case, temperature of evaporator could be to high to trigger ice thickness thermostat to switch to harvest cycle. Therefore, it is essential to measure thermostat performance in order to conclude if it is necessary or not to do some work on refrigeration cycle.

[xbox40489]

If ice production cycle is too long than problem is with refrigeration cycle.
With ice thickness thermostat at middle and normal ambient temperature with some ice in ice bin, ice production cycle should last between 30 and 45 min. If it is longer than that, compressor is inefficient or gas charge is problem, or capillary is partially clogged.

If any above is case, temperature of evaporator could be to high to trigger ice thickness thermostat to switch to harvest cycle. Therefore, it is essential to measure thermostat performance in order to conclude if it is necessary or not to do some work on refrigeration cycle.

Back then i did stick THE thermometer (digital) right next to THE capillar ending of THE ice thickness thermostat. And i posted THE reading of This digital thermometer reaching -8.4 C.

So i still did not See harvest mode.

Was This à valid test? Or It Should be more? -15 C?

[install monkey]

move the bin stat so it produces less ice to save energy

[xbox40489]

move the bin stat so it produces less ice to save energy

You mean move it lower so the ice below can touch easily? Therefore making only the amount of ice you want.

[xbox40489]

If the pump stopped did any thermostat tell it to stop?

Cause it is now in the defrost mode?

[install monkey]

just a though
Airconandy
rookie posterHey, I am new to : RE

Join DateJan 2011LocationWalesAge45Posts10Rep Power0

Re: whirlpool k20 ice machine

I had one last year that wouldn't harvest even after i had fitted 2 new stats it, i put it down to the plate not getting cold enough to set off the hot gas cycle. I put a new compressor on and it worked again. I can only assume that although the compressor seemed to be operating correctly it was in fact probably only operating at about 80% of its duty, i would be curious if anyone else has found this.

[xbox40489]

The machine seems to be stuck in the icemaking mode. it wont go to harvest mode(defrost mode)!

Cause it has been making ice for 1 hr and a half.

[xbox40489]

So the problem is mostly narrowed down to:

Anything preventing the harvest cycle to kick in, but not the ice thickness thermometer or the ice bin thermometer.

Could be the solenoid inlet valve?

Or the hot gas thing?

If I change the solenoid inlet valve i would have replaced almost the 3 items on top.

and als I can suspect my wiring?

But the machine makes thick a thick slap of ice but I can not collect it....even though it take time to do so.

Anything you guys can suggest next? Can someone check my wires for me? I think I have plenty of video and pics in this thread.

Also under the evaporator plate where the capillar is squeezed of the ice thickness thermometer the thing is like in ice! so it is cold enough.
==

It must be something that prevents the harvest cycle to come in.

Can you in a way make the harvest cycle kick in?

[xbox40489]

IMG_2120.jpgIMG_2116.jpgI test it all with the lid closed for close to 2 hrs! With no ice though.

Oh you mean the fact the pump stopped working is a sign the harvest mode was active for a while?

I do not have ice. What I can do is save up a plate of ice made by the ice maker. And test it.

How much Ice do you want me to put in the bin?

Besides isnt it easier to have a thermometer to monitor the temperature of the capillar?

by the way i checked the dial on the ice thickness thermostat.

It was all the way on the plus side(+). Check the picture I uploaded on this message.

It came out of the box like that.


And put the dial arrow pointing to 6 oclock, I think you meant middle by that. Middle of + and -.


I will get some ice before I test it your way!


==


To explain to you all as well about the location of this icemaker. The ice maker is situated in a room where there supposed to be a wasmachine. It is a small room with a few windows.

On top of that I got a table model refrigerator under the ice machine which is working. Meaning it will push out hot air from its own condensor coil!!

Which makes the room even more warmer!

So I see a lot of obstacles in this room for the capillar to reach its -8 C trigger to harvest mode.

I can unplug the fridge when the icemaker is running for a test.

[xbox40489]

So i need to still give the icemaker another test with ice as nike123 suggested.

But can it be other stuff that broke? like the solenoid coil of the waterinletvalve? how can i test this item?

[xbox40489]

What do you suggest me replace? nike123!

I can have an item send to me again.

Or dont spend more money on replacing items?

[xbox40489]

I put a thermometer right inside the ice thickness thermostat spot underneath the evaporator.

The picture shows it reached -8+ C after less then 2 hrs and the slab of ice formed and all.

But the harvest cycle just wont kick in.


http://db.tt/l8PPxFNk

[xbox40489]

I put a digital thermometer's sensor right inside the ice thickness thermostat spot underneath the evaporator.

The picture shows it reached -8+ C after less then 2 hrs and the slab of ice formed and all.

But the harvest cycle just wont kick in.

[xbox40489]

how can you test the harvest cycle can someone instruct me how to|?

[xbox40489]

Any one has a test to me to test the harvest cycle?

I hope I can retry to fix this icemaker that has been driving me nuts!

I bought the good items for it. It might be even the wiring if I can say the items are working well. But the piece that heats up the evaporator.

I have not been able to test it yet when it is in harvest mode etc!

T.

[xbox40489]

WHIRLPOOL K20 Ice Maker Water Inlet SOLENOID VALVE BN

I ordered a new one for the icemaker. It is getting pretty desperate for this icemaker to have it working properly again, because I was already looking for a replacement.

What would you guys recommend?

I was looking at this model:

http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-GI15...pool+GI15NDXXS

[xbox40489]

WHIRLPOOL K20 Ice Maker Water Inlet SOLENOID VALVE BN

I have replaced the solenoid valve yesterday and the ice maker still does not change to the harvest cycle.

What else should I look up?

The wiring?

Is the thing down below working at all the heater next to the compressor?

[1mikeefc1]

If you turn the ice thickness all the way (anti clock wise I think) it should click an extra bit this should cause the machine to go onto a forced harvest if it clicks across but no change in its running then the stat is faulty( even a new stat on these aren't reliable) if it does I would look at the positioning of the stats capillary or if its been damaged.

[xbox40489]

If you turn the ice thickness all the way (anti clock wise I think) it should click an extra bit this should cause the machine to go onto a forced harvest if it clicks across but no change in its running then the stat is faulty( even a new stat on these aren't reliable) if it does I would look at the positioning of the stats capillary or if its been damaged.

Oh then you are blaming the thickness stat?

I have already replaced it with a new one.

No change.

It used to do the forced harvest cycle and suddenly now it does not.

capillary has to be inspected?

It can possibly be the thickness stat? it is brand new. but you said it is unreliable.

[1mikeefc1]

If it doesn't force the harvest then the stat sounds faulty, when I mean check the capillary I mean the thickness stat capillary if its been snapped or nipped it will be no use as the charge in the stat itself will have been released. Is it still making a full sheet of ice ok?

[xbox40489]

It still makes a full sheet of ice. Look at the video above. The only thing it is not doing right is to change to the harvest cycle.

So another order of the ice thickness thermostat might do the job?

How do I know the ice thickness thermostat is working properly before even installing it?

If it doesn't force the harvest then the stat sounds faulty, when I mean check the capillary I mean the thickness stat capillary if its been snapped or nipped it will be no use as the charge in the stat itself will have been released. Is it still making a full sheet of ice ok?

[nike123]

How do I know the ice thickness thermostat is working properly before even installing it?

It is explained in my earlier posts.
If at -8°C temperature of thermostat phial and thermostat at minimum tchikness setting, it should switch to harvest cycle. If not, thermostat is faulty. Simple as that.

[1mikeefc1]

To test before installing the only way is to continuity test across the terminals. Check the wiring diagram to find the normally open contact and test across and then click the stat to the harvest setting and test again. Personally if its in operation and on harvest setting and doesn't kick into harvest I would replace the stat again.

[install monkey]

tip, make sure ur drain from the bin has a good fall, as when it goes on harvest mode, it fills the trough and excess water will drain, your 1st batch of ice will defrost before the next batch drops, keep the door shut,and lets hope ur bin stat cuts out when ice fills the bin!- im impressed with your perseverance

[xbox40489]

IMG_3003.jpgIMG_3001.jpgIMG_2999.jpg


I took the valve coil (defrost coil) out and tried to have a run.

After 1 hour and 22 min I see it formed a big slab of ice. Still no switching to harvest mode.

The ambient temperature is at: 29.9 degrees C.

At this point I shut off the machine. I think what nike123 says is true. I need to either accept they sold me a bad ice thickness stat.

I already bought two! So I do not know if this is the case twice the time a bad ice thickness stat.

On both I never had a click sound when turning it all the way to the minus side(turn it counter clockwise to the side of the minus)

[xbox40489]

By the way I purchased the ice thickness thermostat twice:


PHILIPS K20 / K40 ICE MACHINE ICE THICKNESS THERMOSTAT (130384719590)
Member ID cateringparts | Feedback score of 32376 | 99.9% Get fast delivery and excellent service from eBay Top-rated sellers.
Sale date: 21/08/12


£23.99

+ £9.99

postage & packaging


Sell this item
View seller's other items
More actions

====


PHILIPS K20 / K40 ICE MACHINE ICE THICKNESS THERMOSTAT (130384719590)
Member ID cateringparts | Feedback score of 32376 | 99.9% Get fast delivery and excellent service from eBay Top-rated sellers.
Sale date: 16/06/12


£23.99

+ £9.99

postage & packaging


Sell this item
View seller's other items
More actions

====

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PHILIPS-K2...item1e5b88eee6

the uk seller.

So I must be badluck brian if they ship twice a faulty non working thickness thermostat to me!

[xbox40489]

How do i do the lamp connected in series? That sounds dangerous.


Can i use a multimeter? or something less unpractical to test the energizing of the stat?

[1mikeefc1]

Your faults not with the coil your supply to the coil isn't being sent from the stat so won't harvest re-replace the stat.

[xbox40489]

Oh ok I will leave the coil alone for now.

I want to order the thermostat but it will be a 3rd time i will order it maybe i should have a test like nike123 suggested or just reorder and worry about it later.

Because I want to see it working.

Untitled.png

[1mikeefc1]

If you test the two you've removed before you order one then? When the stats on its maximum ice thickness setting test continuity between the terminals then click it to forced harvest and test the same again, one will have continuity through and one won't if this isn't the case then these stats are definitely faulty.

[xbox40489]

If you test the two you've removed before you order one then? When the stats on its maximum ice thickness setting test continuity between the terminals then click it to forced harvest and test the same again, one will have continuity through and one won't if this isn't the case then these stats are definitely faulty.

hello i have a broken one here the one that came with the ice maker machine.

i tested the continuity quickly.

it does not give you a closed circuit.

but the capillar is broken.

the ice thickness stat prevents the signal to get through?

so meaning if you have continuity you have the harvest mode on.

so i should get the continuity when i get the stat out of the freezer because is has been -8C and beyond in the freezer to keep the terminals connected untill it reaches below -8C etc.?

[1mikeefc1]

It doesn't need to be in a freezer just wind it all the way anti clock wise and a bit more until it click off. This is when the stat is in its forced harvest position.

[xbox40489]

I should have the wiring good but just in case,

here are the pics of the wiring!

if you have an icemaker of k20 compare them and let me know.


ice thickness thermostat.jpgice bin full thermostat.jpginlet valve solenoid.jpgblue green switch.jpgconnector to the pump.jpg

[xbox40489]

temp.jpg

Just to be thourough with this temperature range of the ice thickness thermostat that is causing me all this problem:

I added up here from the manual install monkey gave me. I think it from a k40 that manual because the compressor shows 915W even though i know for a fact the k20 that I have here consumes 400W.

But I would think the stats work the same, the pic shows you the off and on temperatures of both the ice thickness and the bin full thermostat.

The ice bin full stat does a clicking sound like a charm when I hold a piece of ice against the capillar.

It switches off already around 6 degrees C(min) to -2 degrees C(max).

I want to see this happen with the ice thickess thermostat -8 degrees C(min) to -15 degrees C(max).

But according to my test in december 2012 picture. Thee temperature I never reached more then -8.4 degrees C and below!

The treshold is at -8 C degrees though. So I had to put the dial at the minimum( - side of the

IMG_2116.jpg
on the right side would be the minus sign.

So I need to start to dial it to the very minus side. Which is counter clockwise. Then you tell the ice thickness thermostat that it needs to click at -8 degrees C.

Would it be easier for me to have a ice thickness thermostat that triggers a bit higher then -8 C? I would say at -5C.

Because it is hard to get the whole machine to be -8C to -15C below there on the evaporator.

[1mikeefc1]

Why do you need to do a freezer test? There is a setting on the stat that puts it on a forced harvest. If its on this setting and its not got continuity through the terminals it is faulty.

[xbox40489]

I have been playing with the old ice thickness thermostat.

And i pried it open since it is already broken.

The screw that you can access on the outside, is a spring to hold back a circuit from touching.

now i can see the mechanism go up and down also seen on the side of the ice thickness thermometer body.

it is a lever that is situated right next to the screw on the lower right side if you hold the pot meter to the sky.

i used my multimeter on a brand new ice thickness thermostat on both connections. And it is giving me continuity.

When I loosen up the screw(counter clockwise) the lever in question becomes easier to handle. Hence making it easier to have the clicking sound(disconnects the circuit! I also have no continuity because I have tested this on this new ice thickness thermostat. It stops beeping when the lever goes up!). That gives me the harvest mode.

the spring inside the metal casing is then less tense and will allow you to have a quicker clicking to the harvest cycle.

Now lets think how it work by itself to go to the clicking harvest mode.

IMG_3024.jpg

the temperature of the capillar drops to -8 C as you could have seen in my machine.

The gas will shrink and let the pressure down at the end of the capillar system and let eventually the harvest mode kick in(around -8 C).

this is also true the other way around. When its getting too hot and the gas in the capillar expands. Then the gas will push whatever the thing is on the thermostat to push the lever up to make a connection. Hence putting this back into (energising the ice thickness thermostat by closing the circuit)the ice making mode.


Now this is what I have been thinking, when I have the screw on the spring too tight and avoiding it to be able to have the click sound at -8C(the click sound goes in when the circuit is disconnected) then it will never go to harvest mode.

And I think then this might be my problem altogether.

===

Also if the gas in the capillar does not work properly by turning the screw I would just alleviate the clicking(turning to harvest mode). Then you would think it works a little bit.

It would require little work to make it into the harvest mode. And it is really hard to make it into the set harvest mode temperatures of -8C to -15 C.

Seeing my ambient temperature is around 28 C!

Making it impossible inside this ice maker to reach lower temperatures like -10 C or -11 C, -12 C, -13 C or -14 C and -15 C.

It is not that the ice making cycle does not work the compressor works just fine withing 55 min each cycle back when it was working fine but I must say then in a colder ambient temperature(The Netherlands where I was living befo).

Right now in The Netherlands it is 1 C and in St Maarten it is now 28 C.


So the question is here back to the screw you can turn in this ice thickness thermostat, should I loosen the screw a bit and give it a test run?

Let me know.

[xbox40489]

Testing the ice thickness stat:

I loosen up the screw today of the ice thickness thermostat and gave the ice maker a test.

I started to turn the knob all the way counter clockwise.

After having it run without water for a few minutes, I forced the ice thickness stat to harvest mode. This I did by lifting the lever that you can force outside. When loosen it a little bit it becomes easy to lift.

The lifting causes a click which happens when it reached the harvest cycle.

This action turns off the pump.

But the evaporator did not feel hot or warm like it should do. I did not feed the machine water so I do not know if the solenoid opened up.

But I held the ice thickness stat to harvest mode for a while no change.

Does it mean the warm element the valve coil (defrost coil) valve coil (defrost coil) does not work properly and should be tested or looked at?

Let me know.

[1mikeefc1]

When its in harvest do you have hot gas coming out from the hot gas valve? If it is warm before and not after then check there is power to the sol coil if there is and no heats coming through it would sound like a faulty hot gas valve. Out of interest how long does it take to make a nice thick slab of ice? You want it thick but not so thick it won't go through the flap onto the cutter grid.

[xbox40489]

When its in harvest do you have hot gas coming out from the hot gas valve? If it is warm before and not after then check there is power to the sol coil if there is and no heats coming through it would sound like a faulty hot gas valve. Out of interest how long does it take to make a nice thick slab of ice? You want it thick but not so thick it won't go through the flap onto the cutter grid.

How much is it to replace the hot gas valve?

I can slap a multimeter to the black and blue cable and make the harvest cycle kick in(force it) and see what the multimeter gives me(should be 220V).

If the coil is faulty it is just replacing the coil(the black thing that heats up)? Or the whole thing?

I can test the coil for being energised in the harvest mode and let you know.

==

I have tested the ice making cycle before and it should take around 55 min to 1 hr to make a big slab.

[1mikeefc1]

Test the coil but if "the black thing" is warm It sounds like you have a supply to it. Not sure on cost of one but its the solenoid valve you want not the coil if there is heat to it and not going to evap on the pipework. Is the stat now operational and putting a feed to harvest when needed?

[1mikeefc1]

Might be a silly question but do you have your gas handling certificate? If not you won't be able to remove the gas and replace the valve.

[xbox40489]

Solenoid valve or valve coil (defrost coil) ?

u mean the water inletvalve? that is replaced already recently.

But I need to check on both if it energises.

Right now I do not know it the ice thickness thermostat switches when it needs to do so.

Because I have switched it by hand(forcing it with a flat screwdriver).

This was to see if the other items were working.

And no I do not have a certificate to change anything that is including gas.

[1mikeefc1]

Ok this explains a few things, the valve I am talking about is what the solenoid coil( black thing) is operating(sat on) when it energises it should open up and flow hot gas to the evap plate causing the ice to melt and drop onto the cutter grid. If the coil has power to it on harvest and no heat is getting there the valve body itself will require changing by a fully qualified and certified specialist.