k20 Ignis Blizzard icemaker issue with not starting

[xbox40489]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxJ-72N0XWI

ignis blizzard icemaker K20 Hot Gas Coil

I took my ipod and filmed it how it was connected.

It is looking good too. It does not touch the casing to me. But in the daylight I can film in a better lightning if you want a clearer video.

But me it is not touching any other sourrounding thing.

It has been working in that position before it has been moved. Does it matter what side you stick the coiler onto the pipe? or there is only one position? It heats it only so I dont see the problem in reversing it.

Let me know what else to film or to check. I post it quick.

[install monkey]

looks ok.
right back to the start- when you start the machine up -in ice mode, the wash pump starts,the compressor doesnt,does the condenser fan start?
youve checked the fuses,you are getting 240v to the cutter grid transformer- maybe 19v more but still power there.
youve changed the bin stat,ice thickness stat
does the hot gas solonoid energise?

[xbox40489]

pump dont even start.

the wash pump starts,

-Does not start

the compressor doesnt,

-Compressor does not start.

does the condenser fan start?

Condenser fan does not start.

youve checked the fuses,

Fuses are oke, I unplugged the fuse in the video above and checked for continuity. And it went well.

you are getting 240v to the cutter grid transformer- maybe 19v more but still power there.



youve changed the bin stat,ice thickness stat

-It is changed now, because I broke off the capillarwhen I was checking the Old binstat. But ordered a new one and replaced it all nice and set to go. The pics are above in this threath as well.

does the hot gas solonoid energise?

This I need to check.

I think I will film the machine when I press the green button in for you to see. Give me a minute or 10!

[xbox40489]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwrqFM2jvRo

ignis blizzard k20 pump is working, Condenser fan is spinning green and blue button are pressed. The video is seen on the link above. The ice maker is plugged in 220V.

I follow up later with(videos of) the testing of the transformer.

[xbox40489]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE3PXhHWUc8

The link above shows ignis blizzard k20 and I am testing the 220 V coming in on the transformer with a multimeter.

It is being powered and the next video I show the output of it, which is ok and working fine with a 17.6 V. It asks for 18V but it is ok.

[xbox40489]

http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_edi...id=_iDoJfiQ-wE

ignis blizzard k20 testing the cutter grid with 17.3V( needs to be 18 V but anyways) from the transformer with a multimeter.

I so far have also checked the cutter grid for continuity which is seen on the video above.

Let me know what else to test.

Maybe power between something when the green button is pressed in!

Let me know and I will test it and post a video of it here.

[xbox40489]

does the hot gas solonoid energise?

This one I can check tomorrow.

What color cable i have to put the multimeter pins in between?dsf.jpg

I guess from the picture above I need to put the green button on and put the pins between the Blue and the Black/red cables?

I'll post my results tomorrow in yet another video.

[xbox40489]

update:

The hot gas solonoid does not energise, when I have the greenbutton on!

May this be my problem?

Does it have to be energized? I thought it has to be energised only at the end of each cycle, where the evaporator needs to be hot to get the ice slab lose.

Does it have to be energised all the time? I'll take my time and post the video in a short while.

I think the first thing tomorrow that I need to check is the continuity of those two cables. I am talking about the "blue cable" and the "red/black cable".

By the way the ground cable(yellow/green) of the hot gas solonoid goes to the bottom of the casing! It is screwed on a screw that is on the bottom panel.

[xbox40489]

ignis blizzard k20 testing the hot gas solenoid for energising(220 V) when the green button is pressed.

When I press the green button on and off I can see the multimeter jumping on the display, like going high in numbers and back to 0.

I think I jammed the multimeter pins good enough inside the plugs so they stay in and touch the metal. If it was energised I would see it on the multimeter.

[xbox40489]

#63

The drain pipe you see in the video is also replaced when I bought this machine and found out it was leaking. It cost me an arm and a leg to have it replaced. That is why it looks white(new) and the rest of it looks dirtier.

So far I have replaced the drain pipe, ice thickness thermostat, the t shaped pipe that gives you the water onto the evaporator. And I also bought a new drain hose that fitted the machine. Altogether 4 pieces bought. And the price I bought it for 446,25 euros with shipping to the NL. I was living then in the NL.

I cleaned all the other stuff and the machine self thoroughly with vinegar diluted in some water and scrubbed with baking soda.

To make this a working machine again. I bought a waterfilter also with the pipes and hoses needed.

But after the move to St Maarten the machine was not working no more.

I can use some ice cubes here because it is very sunny and hot here.

That is a little back story of the machine.

[xbox40489]

IMG_2638.jpg

I think I might have found the problem.

In the picture you see the H9 Ice Quantity Thermostat. Check the scheme you gave me.

What I saw today is where I circled in the picture I saw copper. Which means it is broken, if the Ice Quantity Thermostat's capillar is broken off.

I need to yet order another part and have it replaced. Beh!

Another chunk of my wallet to have it replaced. If I knew these guys that handled my ice maker was going to be so this rough on the shipping I would have taken those capillar thermostats out of the machine and have it protected before shipping. It could also be the age of it. This machine looks old indeed. And also the climate change have to do with the broken capillars. Also some rough handling maybe by me.

Are there no US seller for these parts? I am always ordering from the UK!

I think this will fix the problem. Cause if the Ice Quantity Thermostat is broken. It tells the machine to shutdown forever.

Which is probably what it is doing right now because my capillar is broken?

How can I still use the machine without replacing the Ice Quantity Thermostat?

Maybe you can help me with this.
dddd.png
H9 is the Ice Quantity Thermostat.

It has connection like X1(Thermostat Earthing)

It has 00 which the Black in the scheme.

It has 12 which is the Brown and Red, it leads to the Wash switch!

How can I bypass the Ice Quantity Thermostat and make it work all the time?

By connecting these cables? 12(Brown and Red) and the 00(Black)?

Let me know.

The full scheme again is here:
scdfdsf.jpg


I am right now going to check how to order the Ice Quantity Thermostat on ebay and have it delivered in a few weeks. But maybe if I can already use it without the stat that would be wonderfull.

It needs to be replaced anyway.

Let me know.

I printed out the scheme out of your url today and started tracing back the cables. This lead me to find the broken capillar on the Ice Quantity Thermostat.

[nike123]

This thread is school example of troubleshooting mess.

First you need good electric diagram which is of functional sort and not wiring layout which you found on cover of ice-maker.

Here is proper electric diagram for troubleshooting:

Slika zaslona iz 2012-08-05 08:34:51.jpg

Now, when you got that, you can see that, in order to compressor start, you need to have circuit closed at power switch S5 (pressed), Wash swicth 0 (depresed), ice bin thermostat H9 , and overload relay of compressor G .

Any of those contacts open and you cannot start compressor.
Also, if Ice bin thermostat is open, there is no power to solenoids and fan and pump.

At the beginning of cooling cycle, after you start unit first time without water in it, it will not take water until ice thickness thermostat opens its contacts at temperature of -8 to -15 depending of setting of that thermostat. Compressor fan and water pump is working (on dry) during that time. Only after evaporator reaches temperature between -8 to -15 (after 10-15 min.) and switch over to off position, solenoid valve is energized and ice machine takes its first water in, and hot gas defrost valve is energized, and heating of evaporator starts. After evaporator reaches +2°C, ice thickness thermostat switch on, solenoid valves are de-enrgized, water is no longer getting in, and hot gas valve is closed. Pump is energized and cooling of water starts. That is beginning of first ice making cycle. Compressor is energized whole time until ice bin thermostat calls for cooling.

Therefore, you could bridge wires which goes to ice bin thermostat in order to test proper function of rest of ice-maker.

I personally love simplicity of this ice-maker against Icematic but make sure that is connected to water supply through limescale depurator. My first choice.

[xbox40489]

Hi nike123,

I do like the simplicity of this machine too. So therefore I was putting time into fixing it.

On the cover of my machine I got this scheme. Yours I have not seen anywhere on the machine. It must be from a manual.



A stupid question, how do I bridge the wires of ice bin thermostat? By just connecting these cables? 12(Brown and Red) and the 00(Black)?

fdsfsdds.png

Filter


To avoid limescale and having to clean it again with baking soda and vinegar diluted in some water. I opted for a filter system(EVERPURE-4H) after the clean. It does still smell funny though. Although it is clean.

4H Everpure Activated Carbon Water Filter EVERPURE-4H 1 € 40.25
Capacity of the 4H filter is 1500 gallons (5,678 L).

EV4270-30wmark.jpg

Let me know. I just ordered the ice bin thermostat. So that will arrive in 2 weeks time. In the meantime I can use your way of bypassing it to troubleshoot it.

[xbox40489]

All in all gentlemen, I had the bad luck of with capillars that were broken! In both Thermostats(ice thickness thermostat (£32,94 with shipping from CateringParts uk ebay)and the ice quantity thermostat(£33,98 with shipping from CateringParts uk ebay))spots! I had to replace these and I am almost about 90 euros poorer combined because of this.

Discounting the also replaced items of:

-Whirlpool K20 K40 Drain Tube 3 Way
£28.54 with shipping from abcdirect2u.co.uk

-k20 PARTS - PHILIPS WHIRLPOOL ICE MACHINE WATER SPRAY BAR (130391686293)( the old one is still here but one side was just broken where you screw it, so I replaced it with a new one) From amount €28,63 EUR
To amount £23,98 GBP with shipping from CateringParts uk ebay
Exchange rate: 1 Euro = 0,837582 British Pounds


-K 20 Drain Hose: Whirlpool(I did not have this so I had to buy a drain tube) £21.45 with shipping from CateringParts uk ebay

It is hard to troubleshoot if those capillars are broken somewhere(probably during the shipping, or I can blame the sudden climate change(it's hot here)). It won't pass on the go to any ice production!

So in total for now I did 5 replacements for now!

Let's tally the costs:

32.94 ice thickness thermostat
33.98 ice quantity thermostat
28.54 Whirlpool K20 K40 Drain Tube 3 Way
23.98 k20 PARTS - PHILIPS WHIRLPOOL ICE MACHINE WATER SPRAY BAR
21.45 K 20 Drain Hose: Whirlpool +
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
140.89 GBP = 177.369 EUR


On top of the 446,25 euros spend on the machine with shipping.

[xbox40489]

IMG_2650.jpgIMG_2649.jpgIMG_2648.jpg

Hooray!

Bridging the Ice Quantity Thermostat worked for me. Check the pictures attached.

I have another question about the vents.

Do these vents on each side of the k20 have to be mounted facing down or facing up? I can't think right now.

I think hot air goes up so I guess up? I will need to correct them if it needs to be facing up!

A google in 2 seconds answered my question:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Should_hom...air_up_or_down
Facing up both sides!

[xbox40489]

Vents are facing up now!

[xbox40489]

Does anyone know the size of those screws used in this k20 ice maker?

I might start to replace most of the screws! That gone rusty or bad as a next project.

[xbox40489]

I didnt know all of this,

So basicly the ice thickness thermostat is on and waits untill it reaches -8° C to -15° C to turn off.

Then basicly the step of filling water comes in and losing up the slab of ice comes in.

Which means the solenoid opens up for the water to come in and the hot gas coil does it's heating to loosen the ice slap up.

When this evaporator reaches +2° C, then this triggers the Thickness Thermostat on. Therefore shutting off the solenoid off which stops the water as well.

The fresh water also flushes out impure water. And get open solenoid means a fresh batch of pure and impure water comes in to make the mix less impure. Because this water was flushed through the drain pipe for that moment the solenoids is on.

Which also closes the hot gas coil.

Then the cycle of making ice comes back in motion.

You can make a flowchart of this. But yeah I get the idea.

How bad is a Icematic?

I got a problem with white ice(unclear ice blocks)! Which means ice forms impurely(white colored). I know that only pure water poured over the evaporator forms you the nice clear ice blocks. And this happens at 0° C and it will only happen to water without any minerals(pure water). As the process repeats because of the pump that pumps the water through the evaporator, layer for layer. It means also that a tank full of water with a lot of minerals is left when the ice slab is done. But this clears up because a new batch of water is introduced to the mix in the tank, which also make the full tank overflow the excess. Making it a fresher batch of water each cycle of ice making.

When you have spot on the evaporator that is super cold under 0° C. Let's say -5° C, mineral full type of water flowing on this spot will form the white ice spot. This is because impure water needs a colder temperature form ice.

This spot is on the right side of the evaporator where the compressor pipe (cold air from the compressor)is attached to the evaporator which is below the evaporator. I guess that spot is too cold below 0°C at least to let mineral full water have the chance to form.

So as a result I get a slab of clear ice and on that spot I always get spot with white colored ice.

Do you have advice for this? It is really not a big deal as for 5% of the ice cubes coming out will be white instead of see through clear ice.

And as for the limescale depurator. As I said I have been filtering my water since I cleaned it with the Everpure set.

The item I ordered is being shipped from the UK to my country tomorrow. So soon it will be back to normal.

[xbox40489]

tn1.jpg

I ordered a ice quantity thermostat with 2 screws, instead of the one ring to attach it. It's oke because all of those icemaker panels on the back have holes for these thermostats.

My question is now what size are those screws? I need to run to the hardware store and get me some screws that look like it.

And also another question is where do you run the capillar on that ice quantity thermostat?

Like in the picture of more on the left side of the box? and then over the box over the ice cutter grid and then down?

Let me know the propper way to install it. Not that it much matters. But i wanted to know.

[xbox40489]

IMG_2478.jpgIMG_2480.jpg

I ran into another wall.

The ice thickness thermostat I installed, the capillar pipe end attached under the evaporator. That seemed lose after I stuck my hand under there and felt it was moving. Meaning the gas in the capillar will never properly get cold enough to tell the ice thickness thermostat to stop it. Like nike123 at around -8° C to -15° C. I felt the capillar on the ice thickness thermostat after having it run for few hrs. Nothing it felt warm not cold at all.

So tomorrow I will tighten the screw nut nail(hexagon) a little bit that sandwiches the capillar pipe of the ice thickness thermostat.

I don't have the good size wrench for this screw nut nail.

It seems like I have a small size 8 mm wrench at home and I tried it and it felt a bit lose.

Maybe it is 7 mm or 6 mm. But not sure. Can someone verify this for me?

Frustrating that still that installation of the ice thickness thermostat went bad. I had to tighten it harder in order for the capillar to feel the coldness of the evaporator.

Any tips are welcome. I will run out to the hardware store to get me a 6 or 7 mm wrench.

[xbox40489]

It was a 7 mm nut. I tighten it a little bit more then it was.

The ice bin thermostat supposed to be on it's way. I ordered it a few days ago.

I also recorded a video under the evaporator after an hour or two with the machine making ice.

It looks like it is struggling to make ice. The water is cold. The compressor seems to do it's job.

I will post a video of it tomorrow. I think the capillar is more then making contact so when it reaches -8C to -15C it will energise the icethickness thermostat and then energise the hot gas valve.

Then to release the ice slab.

But i just bridge the ice bin thermostat for now to test the machine.

My judgement is that compared to where I bought it. In Holland, here is pretty tropical weather.

In Holland it made the ice with no problem but then again the room temperature is also lower.

Here it is 25-30 C all day. To me after 2 hrs you at least have had one cycle. Which in the video I am going to post tomorrow you will see it is struggling to make the ice.

Can it be the plate needs cleaning?

Also in the video you will see the nut that attaches the plate to clam the capillar together is not iced.

All but that. I think the gas is getting warm by the hot air coming out of the vents. I have it in a small room and also close to a wall. Not much clearance.

maybe 10 cm clearance for hot air to go up. And as I have the cover off the hot air is brushing by the capillar of the ice thickness thermostat. Which in return makes that plate with the 7 mm nut not get frozen as the evaporator.

Not sure. I might have to or clean the evaporator or have to leave the machine breathe with more clearance.

I'll post the video of my ice making result right here tomorrow.

It the r134a gas charge not doing it's job enough? For me I have seen it work harder. For real.


Or I should test the machine when the new bin thermostat comes in.

Anyone got a suggestion in the meantime?

[xbox40489]

Here are the videos guys:

[install monkey]

it should cool the water within 5 minutes and produce ice after 45 minutes, then the slab should be 8-10mm thick then slowly turn up the ice thickness stat till it clicks for defrost,make sure the slab clears the flap and lands on the cutter grid- make sure the condenser coil is clean,on the face and within the coil- best thing is compressed air to blast the crap away from inside-a paint brush will only clean the face of the coil

[xbox40489]

hey install monkey you are still following my thread.

Well I got a next problem. The ice thickness stat never gets to click and stop the cycle.

Maybe it is too hot around the icemaker.

The ice bin thermostat missing and bridge shouldnt affect the ice thickness stat's job?

Well I got no compressed air around i need to buy it.

I can tell you right now already that the condenser coil is full of crap!

What do you suggest me to look for in the hardware store? a can of compressed air(those u clean the keyboard with?

By the way I tighten the nut that clams up the capillar under the evaporator already so it can "feel" the coldness when the ice gets super thick.

Is there anything else I should check? Maybe my piece of plastic around the capillar is too tight, then I should take it off(but if off then with small scissors).


The plastic around the ice bin thermostat is way bigger(diameter) then the one I used on the ice thickness thermostat.

[install monkey]

any sleeve over the evap stat will help as long as its just the bare capillary tube as its secured to the evap via the lil rectangular clamp- it may just be under performing with the dirty condenser- and yes get a can of the compressed air for keyboards etc-stick the straw in the end and spray the condenser coil on the accessible side, have the machine running when you do this as it will stop the dust from settling again nearby- make sure the misses doesnt catch you doing this as it can get messy and women dont like mess- also when its cleaned run it with the lid sat on top as it keeps the evap area cooler,see how that goes

[xbox40489]

Ok this time I took out the side panel of the coil side.

You know what else? A small fridge is under the icemaker. And I took out the 4 legs of the icemaker so it does not have any clearance from below.

The coil is very rusty and old.

I put the lid on top of it and gave it water. Hopefully it will run better now isolated from the hot air in the room.

i will post the results later on in a video.

- Right now I am 20 min in. The bin area feels cold. When you use it with the hood off and the door open it takes a while i guess to form the ice? Too much heat coming inside.

IMG_2690.jpg

[xbox40489]

9:43

-

11:39(made the video at that time)

In this interval with the hood closed and the side panel off.

The ice maker made a nice slab of thick ice when I uncovered the hood.

The only thing it needed to do is to change cycle.

Maybe the capillar is shot! One thing is for sure the capillar on the ice thickness thermostat was not cold enough to trigger the stop of the cycle.

Or the other ice quantity thermostat(which is ordered and on it's way) has to be in place and 100 % instead of being bridged all the time. i have put a cable to bridge it so it can start.

I hope it is not the capillar of the ice thickness thermostat. It was a pain to remove or to install.

I will upload the video showing the cycle tomorrow.

[xbox40489]

Here below is the video:



Maybe I just need wait for the ice bin thermostat to arrive and install it and then I can try to retest.

[xbox40489]

I do remember another thing on the ice thickness thermostat.

There was isolation piece. Does this piece have to be under the capillar like this:

evaporator

capillar

isolator piece

Because I suspect I got it like this:

evaporator

isolator piece

capillar

This way the capillar won't be cooled enough to trigger the end of the cycle.

If this is the problem then I will need to go and unscrew it and correct the order.


Look at this test run:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...JsZOo2UU#t=46s

Do you see the whole area not getting frozen.

[xbox40489]

IMG_2695.jpgIMG_2699.jpgIMG_2698.jpgIMG_2696.jpg

I opened the plate to recheck today the piece of plastic or isolation is under the capillar pipes. I see the traces of it from the old one.

I reattached it.

One thing I noticed is that the screw on the new ice thickness thermostat is inside. Is it like this?

The other one the old one somehow I put it back outside. But that have a broken capillar already to begin with.

Let me know.

[xbox40489]

Again I let it run it ice slab turns thick but the machine won't go into defrost mode. The new Ice thickness thermostast might be shot.

Or the reason it is not going into the defrost mode as before is because I always have a bridged ice bin thermostat this mode makes sure the compressor is on and the pump is running and is making sure it keeps making ice instead of jumping into defrost mode after a while.

[xbox40489]

Ok guys I studied the scheme nike123 send me.

ddd.jpg

I figured. I have the missing part in the pic the ice quantity thermostat bridged!
So what it means it the pump and the compressor will never ever have a chance to turn off.

This is what it was doing these two days. But I did check as you can see the machine is making clear ice but the right side of it where it gives you a bit of white ice.

The item ordered which is missing is in, i tracked it and it should be available at the post office.
I am going to check it out this week and replace it and retest the machine.

Hopefully all back to normal. Fingers crossed.

[xbox40489]

Still I am wondering.

I have an idea how the ice thickness thermostat works. But really can someone explain this?

The gas inside the capillar expands or shrink. And therefore triggers the treshold the thermostat is set on.

Say in this case between -18C/-15 C and 2 C.

I dont know but if it needs to be -15 to trigger at least can i feel it from the outside of the capillar? Or the sensor on the thermostat feels the pressure inside the capillar and certain amount of pressure amounts to the -15 C or the 2C.

Did I explain it good?

Let me know.

[nike123]

There was isolation piece. Does this piece have to be under the capillar like this:

evaporator

capillar

isolator piece

That is correct order

If this is the problem then I will need to go and unscrew it and correct the order.

Yep!

[nike123]

Turn the ice thickness thermostat counterclockwise until the end position and check if icemaker goes to ice harvest (defrost) phase. Then, after it is make few thin ice slabs, move thermostat by 5° (angle, not temperature) and wait to make new ice slab. Repeat that until you got desired thickness. Don't go thicker than 1cm.

[xbox40489]

nike123:

you want it to go to the minus side.

I have not tried touching the dail during ice making.

But the ice bin thermostat is always on(I have this device bridged in order for the machine to run! So when the times comes to switch to defrost cycle even it will be forever bridged for now. So nothing will change untill I replace this one with a new one which is coming in soon via mail. After I replace it I allow it to switch to defrost cycle which the solenoids let waters in and the hot gas thing turns on to let the slab of ice melt to fall into the ice cutter grid. I think I concluded this after two runs. If I am wrong let me know).

So I think it might have to do with it not going into the defrost cycle?

Study your own diagram posted me nike123.

[xbox40489]

i will give it that try nike123 and it if does not go into defrost cycle then I will wait for the bin full thermostat to come in and retry it.

If anything send the ice thickness thermostat back to the seller in the uk!

But the new one ice thickness thermostat I have a screw that is inside? Does it have to be like this?

Also can someone explain how does this thermostat work?

[xbox40489]

But the ice bin thermostat is always on(I have this device bridged in order for the machine to run! So when the times comes to switch to defrost cycle even it will be forever bridged for now. So nothing will change untill I replace this one with a new one which is coming in soon via mail. After I replace it I allow it to switch to defrost cycle which the solenoids let waters in and the hot gas thing turns on to let the slab of ice melt to fall into the ice cutter grid. I think I concluded this after two runs. If I am wrong let me know).

[nike123]

i will give it that try nike123 and it if does not go into defrost cycle then I will wait for the bin full thermostat to come in and retry it.If anything send the ice thickness thermostat back to the seller in the uk!But the new one ice thickness thermostat I have a screw that is inside? Does it have to be like this?Also can someone explain how does this thermostat work?

You don't need to wait for bin thermostat to be able to troubleshoot further. Bin full thermostat does not have any impact on defrost.

When ice thickness is sufficient and ice thickness thermostat is set to corresponding evaporator temperature, thermostat must switch to OFF position and energise 3way solenoid (and fresh water valve solenoid), and start defrost process.

If it does not do that, with decent ice slab on evaporator, even at lowest thickness setting, than ice thickness thermostat is faulty or its capillary is not sensing evaporator temperature as it should.

Regarding screw, I cannot tell you for now, but today i will going to change one same thermostat, and i will let you know how it should be.

[xbox40489]

You don't need to wait for bin thermostat to be able to troubleshoot further. Bin full thermostat does not have any impact on defrost.

When ice thickness is sufficient and ice thickness thermostat is set to corresponding evaporator temperature, thermostat must switch to OFF position and energise 3way solenoid (and fresh water valve solenoid), and start defrost process.

If it does not do that, with decent ice slab on evaporator, even at lowest thickness setting, than ice thickness thermostat is faulty or its capillary is not sensing evaporator temperature as it should.

Regarding screw, I cannot tell you for now, but today i will going to change one same thermostat, and i will let you know how it should be.

I know it wont affect the ice thickness thermostat. But then again I got the damn ice quantity thermostat forever bridged!

And without it it wont run.

So I will say in order for the machine to change cycle and energise other solenoid and others you need to unbridge the ice bin thermostat in order it to work normal.

Oh you do this daily as a job? You seen my machine, it is making beautiful ice. But in a slow pace.

What is faulty are those thermostat.

I just need to have patience wait for the ice bin thermostat to come in and have it installed to troubleshoot further like you said.

But If I can understand the figure you send with the red line I drew and the black line representing the bridge:

A bridged ice bin thermostat forever powers on the compressor! Scroll to the right with your cursor to see the compressor(D1)

Check this out:

ddd.jpg


Also if the bottom green side decides to stop making ice at the ice thickness thermostat(H10). the freaking compressor will be still on with the bridge(black line up at H9) intact.

I might be wrong. I will need to reinstall a working H9 and remove the bridge(from H9) to troubleshoot some more.

[xbox40489]

ddd2.jpg

I was thinking this above. Ignore the middle part. Whatever happens in the middle. Because I bridge it on the ice quantity thermostat(H9). If I unbridged the H9(triggers at a high temp treshold) the machine should turn off any ice making ability and have the circuit open. This is when the bin is full. And no ice making cycle is needed.

The same goes for in the middle the ice thickness thermostat(H10).

You are right by saying they are independant of each other.
If the H10 opens up which is when the temperature reaches a treshold of -8 C to -15C. Then in this case the defrost cycle kicks in. In which the topside(in red, H9(ice thickness thermosta), N1(pump motor) , N(fan motor) maybe also the compressor(D1) of the circuit stops and the lower side of the circuit start working. This I assume from the figure above.

Lower side consists of L10(thermostat heater), W1(water solenoid valve) and W2(gas magnetic valve). This is the defrost cycle.

Something never energises the lower part to switch to defrost cycle. Which is why you said it might be the ice thickness thermostat's fault. Taking in account that both of the stats are working indepently to turn off the machine's job.

Meaning it can turn off the machines in both cycles(ice making and the defrost cycle).

I'll have to test the machine with both stats intact to see if there is still no switching in cycle then it might be the ice thickness thermostat's fault the cycle is not changing.

[xbox40489]

dfkhdsfkdhsf remove this post!dd

[xbox40489]

dfkhdsfkdhsf remove this post!

[xbox40489]

I tried to make a flowchart out of the processes needed in the ice making machine:

The 1 to 5 numbers are the checks for the ice bin full thermostat.
ddddddd.jpg

[nike123]

IMG_2696.jpg



One thing I noticed is that the screw on the new ice thickness thermostat is inside. Is it like this?

Yep, that is OK!

[xbox40489]

Nah I got an e-mail from the seller on ebay in the uk.

He said one of the screw supposed to be on the inside and the other one on the outside on a ice thickness(he calls it, the evap coil stat) thermostat.

I went to my post office with a trackingcode, it has arrived but I can't have get it today. I can probably get it monday I was told. But I get a ride to the post office in town each friday. So I think next friday is when I get the parcel of the new ice quantity bin thermostat.

About the Ice thickness thermostat with it's screws. Here was the content of the mail on the positions of the scews:


Wednesday, August 15, 2012

had a look at those calibration screws, on the bin stat they are both inside, on the evap coil stat one inside and one outside.

- cateringparts

13-aug-12 14:32:10 CEST

Does one screw has to be in the inside and the other one On the outside?

Let me know this fact.

13-aug-12 11:50:42 CEST

Hello, those screws are calibration screws set at the factory so best not touching them, you need a digital contact probe and comparitor to set them up correctly.

- cateringparts

[xbox40489]

Top Interior.jpgIMG_2751.jpgIMG_2748.jpgIMG_2752.jpgIMG_2750.jpg


I went to the post office this morning.

The parcel arrived.

I got pictures of the installation. I am not sure where else the capillar of the ice bin full thermostat should be tucked away.

But I used the Top Interior picture as a reference. It is someone else's icemaker.

I almost installed it as they did. Only my capillar is still not neatly tucked away in the box.

The cables seemed also pretty straight forward attached.

The black one for the bin full thermostat is facing the front panel. And the blue cable is facing the front panel. Just like the reference picture of the top interior picture.

I am giving it a test run now.

If the defrost cycle does not kick in. Then it should be replaced?

I have the dials right now on the minus(-) side for the ice thickness thermostat.

And the other one bin full thermostat I got it pointed on the sun symbol.

So fingers crossed or I need to yet replace the ice thickness thermostat because it does not go over to the defrost cycle.

[xbox40489]

Install money and nike123:

Could it be the last thing the solenoid?

Cause the thermostats are changed. Why does it not go to defrost cycle?

[xbox40489]

still no results, the ice is thick(i will upload video later) but the defrost cycle wont come.

Are you supposed to feel the cold at the end of the ice thickness thermostat? I mean the capillar has to be at least a bit cold on the sensor side?

I didnt check if the ice bin full shuts off when i put a piece of ice against it.

I should try that at least.

[xbox40489]

I held a piece of ice against the bin stat thermostat and it shuts off the machine.

I take the ice off. Then within a minute it warms up and goes on again!

So that stat works.

The other one, the ice thickness thermostat I held a piece of ice on the capillar on the sensor side and the machine does not change to defrost cycle!

I think I need to exchange the ice thickness thermostat!