Frick YPS chiller package contaminated by water

[NH3ISFORMEE]

The system I am trying to get back online had a previous contractor do "something" to cause water to contaminate the entire system. The customer believes the condenser was damaged when tubes where punched, and water leaked from there. They installed a larger condenser, tube and shell, and I changed all filters, cleaned screens, drained all oil, and changed the drier cores to high water content. After a deep vacuum overnight to 600 microns and it held for one hour I charged 85 gallons of 2A oil, and broke the vacuum to verify proper level in the second site glass. When all was good I started my triple evacuation, and by the end I couldn't get down below 2000 microns. Low and behold about 20 gallons of water could be seen in the receiver level column!! Isolated the vessel along with the condenser from the system,and drained out all the water. The culprit was from the water regulator via stainless tubing with a compression fitting to the condenser. Did the low vacuum I achieved initially damage the diaphram or other internals of the water regulator? For now the condenser and receiver are both isolated with the water regulator connections disconnected and all is running on a pump overnight to dry it out. Meanwhile the rest of the system is running on two seperate pumps isolated from the condenser and receiver.

This whole situation has turned out to be an enormous headache, and expectations are high. Am I missing anything here? I've never really worked on a problem like this before, I'm trying to figure it out as I go along.

[HVACRsaurus]

Hi Buddy,

To me it sounds like chance that the condenser water regulator failed. One idea might be to covert the condenser regulator to a electronic actuator or variable speed pump.

[Magoo]

Hi NH3.
You have definitly got a problem on your hands and recovery will be a long and slow process. For that amonut of free water to appear suddenly something dramatic has happened. Drain free water and purge with OFDN, and repeat process after each vac period. I would be sectioning off system and pressure testing to design max and confirming nothing else is leaking, particually the S/T condenser. You can aim fan heaters at receiver vessel and get steel above ambient will help. Have large diameter and short length hoses between vessel and vac pump. (Rapid vacuum pressure drops can work against you as water droplets can freeze solid and stay in situ.). Moisture removal will be indicated in vac pump oil, so you will need lots of vac oil as well.
Once you are back on line and running do repeat oil testing until results are clear, with filter changes etc.,may require several oil changes as well.

[NH3ISFORMEE]

What does OFDN mean?

[The Viking]

Suspect it's a typo and should read OFN - Oxygen Free Nitrogen.
As this is completely dry it will assist in removing moisture from the system.

[NH3ISFORMEE]

Ya did that, vac pumps still have milky oil when changed. This things a nightmare. I fixed the water problem now I just have to dehydrate this thing and charge it. The customer has another chiller package same kind. Is it possible to install a auto purger for water and air on both systems instead of installing a seperate purger on each package, and where would i make the suction connection to the purger neither package has a ccumulator?

[NH3ISFORMEE]

I am working on a 65 ton Frick screw chiller that just had recent water contamination. Is it possible to install a hansen app auto purger for air and water to be piped to both chillers or does each package need its own purger? Also where would my suction line come from neither package has a accumulator? However there is a economizer vessel on each.

[Nh34life]

You dont necessarily need a purifier, they are great but you need to get on to removing moisture asap. whilst you or your customer decides the system is getting worse. I would imagine that the shell n tube/ PHE has a drain on it? if so its your lucky day, organise a time to shut down the chiller and use the evap as a purifier. Simply shut the make up and pump down, monitor the P/T as soon as the NH3 has boiled off drain evap. dont leave it heating for too long. Not to sure if this suits your system it may be more beneficial to de-still by pumping out to an external vessel which may require the use of heaters as Magoo suggested. Dont be fooled that the filter/driers will remove the moisture.