Trane CH532 HP alarm

[paulg88]

just wondering if anyone has come across a problem like mine. Ive a trane ch532 controller with a Hp Ckt1 fault. The dual Hp switch has not tripped though. I have 230 volts coming to the switch and going back to the ID14H in the controller which corresponds to the high pressure alarm in circuit 1. Circuit 2 in the same chiller is working without a problem... any ideas?

[Grizzly]

Hi Paul.
Welcome to the forum.
I am assuming you have performed a manual reset?
Please read the attached it may help?
Grizzly

[paulg88]

Hi Grizzly,
yes I tried a manual reset but its only clears the alarm light for a fraction of a second and the alarm button lights up again. I shut down the chiller and powered it off and when repowered, the alarm was gone but as soon as I hit the button to switch on the chiller, the alarm comes up again immeadiatly...

[Grizzly]

OK Paul.
I will have another look at what Info I have and get back to you.
That will be sometime tomorrow now I am afraid.
Have you tried interrupting the 240v return to the board and then resetting the alarm.
It's just possible the HP switch is open circuit when in a healthy state and therefore closed circuit when in alarm?
In which case the switch could be shot?

Alternatively have you confirmed a HP fault does not exist?

Simple stuff I know but it has to be asked!
Grizzly

[paulg88]

thank grizzly,
any info would be appreciated. HP fault does not exist. System is not running and HP transducer is reading something like 6.0 bar in the data display of controller. ruled out the normally open or closed contact question by comparing it with the HP switch in circuit 2 of the chiller which is running ok. From what I can see, the 2 HP alarms are controlled by a 230vac signal from the HP swithes to ID14(circuit 1) and ID15H(circuit 2) of the controller. both are recieving 230 volts but still the HP Ckt1 fault still persists..

[install monkey]

if u swap the connector plugs over does the fault show circuit 2 fault,if not maybe a dry joint on the pcb?

[Grizzly]

You are definitely on the case!

Short of a wiring diagram or help from some of our more learned members.
I am not sure how much further I can help.

There we go whilst writing this IM has come forward with a good suggestion.

Have you tried a 3pin re-boot?
Grizzly

[install monkey]

thanks for the compliment grizzly, i forgot to mention , dont walk away from the system if youve swapped the plugs as u might hear ur relief valve go off! but it may prove your tranducer faulty from possible vibrations?

[paulg88]

Good thinking IM. The HP switches do not have individual plugs but are on two separate plugs which I'm sure if study the wiring diagram first, I should be able to swap them to see if the alarm changes to the other circuit. Will definately try that on Monday

[paulg88]

You are definitely on the case!

Short of a wiring diagram or help from some of our more learned members.
I am not sure how much further I can help.

There we go whilst writing this IM has come forward with a good suggestion.

Have you tried a 3pin re-boot?
Grizzly

3 pin re-boot? Not sure what this means?

[Grizzly]

A favourite term of mine! Std. UK power supplies use a 3 pin plug (Earth, Live and Neutral).

So when you Pull the 3 pin plug, you interrupt the incoming power supply.

So it means shut the plant down and start it back up.
Good luck.
Grizzly

[paulg88]

A favourite term of mine! Std. UK power supplies use a 3 pin plug (Earth, Live and Neutral).

So when you Pull the 3 pin plug, you interrupt the incoming power supply.

So it means shut the plant down and start it back up.
Good luck.
Grizzly

Haha! yes 3 pin reboot was tried with no luck. Cheers Grizzly.

[install monkey]

paul whats the model number for the chiller

[paulg88]

not 100% sure of the model number. its either a CGAN700, CGAN800 or CGAN900. info on all 3 should be very similar anyway i assume. It has 2 circuits, and 6 compressors, cooling only. Wonder would there be a thermistor in a compressor or anywhere that may affect the HP alarm...

[goshen]

Hi paul
it is a well known secret on most of these units WITH CAREL CONTROLLERS each digital input has a double !
for id14 you have id14h
one is low voltage 24 vac,and the other is 230vac,
the high input tends to have problems as tripping your circuit for no reason driving you mad, on a wild goose hunt!
what we tend to do is add a 230vac relay(USE THE ORIGINAL WIRING), and pass 24vac to the low input ,do not connect both inputs together it is a OR connection!!!
THIS SHOULD SAVE YOU REPLACING A CONTROLLER
good luck

[Grizzly]

Following on from goshen's brilliant post.
The attached may help?

Check J8.
Grizzly

[paulg88]

Hi paul
it is a well known secret on most of these units WITH CAREL CONTROLLERS each digital input has a double !
for id14 you have id14h
one is low voltage 24 vac,and the other is 230vac,
the high input tends to have problems as tripping your circuit for no reason driving you mad, on a wild goose hunt!
what we tend to do is add a 230vac relay(USE THE ORIGINAL WIRING), and pass 24vac to the low input ,do not connect both inputs together it is a OR connection!!!
THIS SHOULD SAVE YOU REPLACING A CONTROLLER
good luck

Thanks goshen,
thats good info to get. If I narrow the problem down to the controller, I'll definately try that

[paulg88]

Hi paul
it is a well known secret on most of these units WITH CAREL CONTROLLERS each digital input has a double !
for id14 you have id14h
one is low voltage 24 vac,and the other is 230vac,
the high input tends to have problems as tripping your circuit for no reason driving you mad, on a wild goose hunt!
what we tend to do is add a 230vac relay(USE THE ORIGINAL WIRING), and pass 24vac to the low input ,do not connect both inputs together it is a OR connection!!!
THIS SHOULD SAVE YOU REPLACING A CONTROLLER
good luck

hi goshen,
wont be back on site until monday night but have been thinking. everything you said makes sense. the 230vac comes from the HP switch and goes into ID14h. ID 14 is right beside it and is a free terminal. only issue I have is that another cable is also connected into ID14H and seems to go to a terminal on top of the controller from one of the terminals marked "relays digital output". Would you know if this second wire should stay in the 230v terminal or should it be moved also. and if it is moved, wouldnt the other end of said wire be moved from a 230 v terminal to its 24v double. A lot of questions I know, but would just like to be able to try a few things out when I get back to it. unfortunately i dont have the wiring diagram here with me so Im just working from my memory of looking at it over a week ago.
Cheers, Paul.

[install monkey]

u have mail

[paulg88]

Cheers IM. Hopefully I'll get to spend some time with the chiller tomorrow and see if I can make some progress

[CV_Geardrive]

Hi,
Try to reinstall SAME software to module.
If there is no result, replace module.
Regards,
CV

[paulg88]

Hi guys,
just back sayin thanks for your help, especially goshen. his info was spot on and I have the chiller back up and running now. was great to get it sorted!

[CV_Geardrive]

Hi all,
Goshen, it was a brilliant information.
I didn’t know this.
Thank you,
Respectful
CV

[Grizzly]

Hi Paul.
Thanks for the update it is always good to learn how anyone gets on.
Did you modify the wiring as Goshen suggested?
Grizzly

[paulg88]

Hi grizzly,
I did indeed. The HP switch now controls a relay which makes or breaks a 24vac signal to the controller and all is working great
Paul.

[Grizzly]

Good this forum isn't it!
So that would vindicate everything you did prior to posting.
Thanks to goshen were are all a lot wiser now.
Grizzly

[goshen]

Hi paul
happy to be of help
best regards
merry christmas

[serviceman]

IMG00242-20111221-1109.jpgIMG00243-20111221-1109.jpg
I send you pictures of a dual high pressure switch me if this is confirmed. European models not only reset on the panel but also in the switch