Graindaire 3T 2H/1C Heat Pump AUX Heat

[mlenco]

It is 19F outside at 9:53am Saturday, the weather channel says it feels like 8F.

Grandaire 3 Ton 2h/1C heat pump (Model JT4BD-036K R410A 13 SEER with 10kw AUX heat kit (H6HK010H01 for B5 only).

Note: The white wire on the tstat running to the AUX and the wire to W2 on the air handler terminal was disconnected as this Honeywell tstat RTS2410 doesn't have a lock out feature forcing the aux heat to come on all the time t hough the 140F air coils could do the job just fine.

The heat has been running all night. When I came downstairs the tstat said the room was 69F. I wired the white wire on the tstat to the AUX terminal on the stat and wired the white wire on the air handler terminal to W2 ( I pulled the emergency relay removing power to the unit before I did that). I turned the power back on and observed the tstat. I noticed the tstat constantly called for heat and aux but after turning on the stove with a big pot of boiling water to humidify the home, TV, lamps and such the tstat never showed the room warmer than 70F. I took a 6" inch flex duct off the air handler to take a look at the heating coils to see if the coils are heating. I felt warm air coming up from below the heating coils (10KW). The coils weren't red like a heating coil so I couldn't visually see if the coils were heating up. When I reached into to quickly touch the coils, I got a shock. So, it is not grounded and it isn't producing heat though the tstat is calling for AUX heat.

I need this resolved. How can this be resolved? Don't say "call a tech" as I have already called a few different companies, including the person who installed the unit, who charge me for visits, play dumb for an hour then leave. I have to fix this on my own or live with suboptimal perhaps unsafe conditions.

Can anybody provide some tangible insight on how to fix this problem?

Thanks!

Matt
571-332-6493

[install monkey]

ur going to have to inspect the elements for physical damage,test the resistance of each element and maybe disconnect any faulty ones.this will hae a reduced output but any additional heat output will be beneficial

[mlenco]

ur going to have to inspect the elements for physical damage,test the resistance of each element and maybe disconnect any faulty ones.this will hae a reduced output but any additional heat output will be beneficial

Thank you...

[Gary]

The heat has been running all night.

Has the outdoor unit been running?

[Gary]

First things first. Before we screw around with the aux heat, let's make sure the heat pump is working properly.

[Brian_UK]

Maybe get hold of a clamp-on ammeter to test the aux heaters instead of using a finger tip.

[monkey spanners]

Aren't the aux heaters just a curly bare heater wire? Like a light bulb filament but bigger? No wonder you got a shock off it, could easily be dead now...

[Gary]

Note: The white wire on the tstat running to the AUX and the wire to W2 on the air handler terminal was disconnected as this Honeywell tstat RTS2410 doesn't have a lock out feature forcing the aux heat to come on all the time t hough the 140F air coils could do the job just fine.

This is confusing. If the electric heat is disconnected, how can the air temp be 140F?

[mlenco]

First things first. Before we screw around with the aux heat, let's make sure the heat pump is working properly.

In July, the pressures where well below the graph of the temperatures that would read with the proper refrigerant level, we added one lb of refrigerant. No fear here as the installer removed at least that much during installation while "fine tuning". The pressure well below the line was after adding.

In December, the heat pump has a high side pressure of 136 with a low side of 112 when it was 32 degrees outside but measuring the larger pipe terminating at the A coils we got up to 139/140F until the cycle ended.

It is able to bring the home to the temperature called for on the tstat. It is set for a 90 minute defrost cycle. The stat is set for 2h/1c.

[mlenco]

The AUX heat, the secondary heating was disconnected, the primary heat or heat pump condensor and a-coils was running just fine.

[mlenco]

Yes, why would they be dead now?

[mlenco]

This is confusing. If the electric heat is disconnected, how can the air temp be 140F?

Gary,
Its a small, small World. My brother installed this beast. He lives in New Port Ritchey. When you see him, give him a smack for me, will ya?
Thanks!
Matt
Arlington,VA

[Gary]

In July, the pressures where well below the graph of the temperatures that would read with the proper refrigerant level, we added one lb of refrigerant.

That graph assumes proper airflow through both indoor and outdoor coils. Improper airflow through either coil can drastically alter those pressures. Unless/until airflow is confirmed, the pressures are meaningless.

Airflow can be confirmed by measuring the temperatures of the air entering and leaving the coils (disconnect the aux heat while measuring and try to measure close to the coil). The difference between entering and leaving air temp is the coil's delta-T aka dT. High dT indicates insufficient airflow.

At this point, I strongly suspect there is insufficient airflow through your indoor coil... but I can't see the system from here. I can only "see" your temperature and pressure measurements.

[Gary]

Gary,
Its a small, small World. My brother installed this beast. He lives in New Port Ritchey. When you see him, give him a smack for me, will ya?
Thanks!
Matt
Arlington,VA

Do I have your permission to slap some sense into him?