Daikin Dilemma

[tumbersm]

G'day all
Great responsive and informative site. My first post. Looking for some fresh imput into current conundrum. I am a fitter, not a "fridgy" but have worked around the large commercial and high-rise a/c industry for 40 plus years. Three years ago I had a Daikin, split, ducted system installed in my home. Indoor unit FDYP145 and outside unit RZP 145. With one hiccup along the way, the system has functioned flawlessly on both cycles and in reasonable extremes. I have been running the system for approximately 1 1/2 to two hours, two to three times a week over the last month just while the combustion heater kicks in. Last week I switched the system on and it became clear, fairly quickly, that the indoor unit (fan) was operating however there was no heat and no fault code. We had a gas heater installed and commissioned last week in the adjacent room 7m away and that had been switched on prior to the air-conditioning. I thought that it was possible that the proximity to the thermistor may have affected the operation so I shut the air-conditioning down until the following evening and did a start-up without the gas heater. Same result. It then occurred to me that in installing and commissioning the heater the power had been off at the breakers so I performed a restart on the system, remote pad showed 88 and then went to normal display but no heat, no fault code displayed and clearly the outside unit is not running. I have done this now three times as the Daikin agent says "no fault code, no fault" the circuit is powered from fuse/breaker board to both inside and outside units with power both sides of the main isolator on the outside unit (when on) my AC current "sniffer" detects power all the way to the PCB (detected through the cabinet). I have run through the various "fixes" proposed by the agent/installer without success, I have to do better than "no fault code, no fault".
Further info: we live in the bush and are off grid. Normal household power supply is provided by solar/batteries/inverter. Appliance line direct from generator (10 kVA, variable speed, pure sine wave) provides power for water heater electric boost, electric oven and air-conditioner either "called up" manually or current activated. Agents were satisfied at the time of a/c installation that there is no fluctuating or dirty power associated with the appliance line and “state-of-the-art electronics” on a variety of appliances run fine on either power source or a combination of both. The outside unit has a permanent household power connection to the crankcase heater which functions whether the appliance line is on or off. For the moment I am stumped, appreciate any assistance.
Mick

[Yuri B.]

. It then occurred to me that in installing and commissioning the heater the power had been off at the breakers so I performed a restart on the system, remote pad showed 88 and then went to normal display but no he

Hello.
Cannot it be so that compressor started without sufficient oiling because its crankcase heater had been switched off ?

[tumbersm]

Hi Yuri B
Thanks for reply. Yes, crankcase heater would have been off for about 1 hour while a couple of GPO's were wired up. A/c was not started for about 4 hours after that and crankcase heater is constantly on again when inverter power is present so unlikely that compressor is problem. Would have thought that there would have been a fault code showing if that was the case E5, E6, JH, L9?
Mick

[brunstar]

in relation to your installation, it may be a coincedence but the unit looked to have not ran after the additional heating system was installed, in relation to this was there a new electrical supply installed?
if so make sure that the electrician did not carry out a megga test on the A/c circuit as this may have damaged the outdoor pcb.
With the new heating system that you have installed, have you tried the air conditioner on both modes, heating and cooling?
are they using the same duct work from the new heating system as the old one?

[frank]

A few checks you could try, and post back.

Is the remote controller set into Heating, Cooling, Dry Function or Fan only?

What is the temperature set point against room temperature?

Open the remote controller flap and press once the bottom left hand button (Test) briefly. Is there any fault code showing/flashing next to the 'EYE' symbol?

What is the external ambient temperature?

Is the indoor filter clean and do you have good air flow?

There are some more but I have to sign off just now .....urgent business etc

Is the outdoor coil clean?

If you put the unit into Emergency Mode' does it operate correctly?

[tumbersm]

G'day Brunstar and Frank
Thanks for replies. New heater is not ducted, it is a stand-alone convection, fan assisted room heater. Sparky who wired in new outlets is the same one responsible for the installation and commissioning of our complete remote, " off grid" system and was also responsible for hard wiring the air-conditioning. Never say never, however if he had inadvertently "cooked" the PCB I would have expected a fault code however that may still occur when I drill down into the test programme or "force" a system start. The outside unit does not function irrespective of which mode is "dialled up" and a start has been attempted in all of them including the timer function.
Filter is clean, and airflow appears good. I will check set point tonight.
Thanks again
Mick

[tumbersm]

Hello again Frank
Set remote to heat mode, temperature to 24° and turn system on, operation indicator lit. Evident that indoor unit is operating and toggled between high and low fan speed to check. All okay. With my head out the door it's clear that outside unit not running and generator barely above idle. Try your first idea of push and hold the the test button and.............. hello, hello a fault code, U2 "System Power Supply Insufficient"? I think.
Interesting, before purchasing the system I had a couple of discussions with Daikin technical advisers regarding the direct generator power supply. The manufacturers of the "Intelligen" variable speed generator provided them with technical data to satisfy them that the electronics would not be compromised and that a constant adequate power supply would be provided. Dakin calculated a required supply in either heat or cool mode would not exceed 6.8 to seven kVA. Intelligen ran a series of tests to ensure that I could call up 7kVA for the air-conditioner and would still be able to charge batteries safely within the 10 kVA rating of the generator. Some, who read this post from the beginning have probably "twigged" that I actually have a bit over 13 kVA as the generator and inverter can run in tandem. any event I prefer to use the generator alone for appliances such as those previously mentioned along with, clothes dryer, washing machine, dishwasher, heat lamps the bathroom and some workshop equipment. All power outlets for these appliances are separately wired from those that we describe as "house power". The air-conditioner and the electric oven are the highest rating appliances and give the generator a good run when they are on (not together) however as they get the diesel engine up around 60 to 80% that's efficient running.
With that as a background and given the fault code, I shut the air-conditioner down and turned on the following. Oven set to 300°, clothes dryer highest heat setting, electric water heater booster, dishwasher and two workshop motors. Generator ran up progressively as these were switched on to give me a constant 8.5 to 8.7 kVA. I then deliberately started the battery charger for the 48 V.battery bank which brought me perilously close to 10 kVA. I let that run for some 30 minutes with no fluctuations other than those expected as the oven thermostat cut in and out and the various cycles of the dryer and dishwasher functioned. The generator is equipped with a quite sophisticated diagnostic program, and scrolling through that discloses no spikes or other aberrations. So........... I've got problem, I just don't know what it is.
Mick

[lowcool]

trade it in for a 42 foot catamaran

[tumbersm]

Yeah, Lowcool that's helpful. I'll think of you when ETSA starts shedding grid load next summer.
Mick

[tumbersm]

Ahh, Daikin now there's a lemon for you. Just for anybody who trawls past posts and threads and so I can have a bit of a spit, nine months on and I still don't have a functioning air-conditioner. Rather than replace what is clearly irreparable Daikin insist on component by component stripping out the system electrical, electronic and mechanical in an attempt to remedy this disgrace. The only joy left in this farrago of inferior product and incompetent attempts at diagnosis and repair is access to the "testimonials" section of the website. I'll advise again when this disaster is due to celebrate its first birthday.

[tumbersm]

Ahh, Daikin now there's a lemon for you. Just for anybody who trawls past posts and threads and so I can have a bit of a spit, nine months on and I still don't have a functioning air-conditioner. Rather than replace what is clearly irreparable Daikin insist on component by component stripping out the system electrical, electronic and mechanical in an attempt to remedy this disgrace. The only joy left in this farrago of inferior product and incompetent attempts at diagnosis and repair is access to the "testimonials" section of the website. I'll advise again when this disaster is due to celebrate its first birthday.
Mick

[lowcool]

who cares,your frustration doesnt compare to my genset.
bloody greenies

[Rogerbrand]

Hi, I am even newer to this forum and have the same error code U2 on a split air con and the out side pump unit is asleep.
I bought this house with roughly 8 Daikin split units installed. They are say 6 years old now. One went down last year (height of summer when we moved in....) in a similar way but I did not know about error codes (till now) so replaced it with a Panasonic (great unit).
The error code must be wrong as this is a mains serviced house in a city (Hong Kong) and I have put the meter on the outside unit and it has full voltage at it so it must be able to draw full current, surely. The inside air cooling fan unit is running. The "sister" air cons can run so it is not "system power supply problem" if it is a power problem it must be caused by a fault in the PCB harnesses.

Seems to me the inside unit is not communicating with the out side.

The pump unit is displaying the green flashing led and all the red ones are off (so it is operational according to the guide posted on top of the PCB tray). I pulled out the pcb's in the air cooling unit (the in room on wall fan unit) and wiggled the wires, in case the harness plugs were fouled ( the units have been off over the winter and we are testing them all as the hot weather is soon to arrive).

I recon the error code is wrong. I kept the unit that went down last year and can swap out the PCB's but they could be faulty.....

Big job to switch pumps around with air coolers to isolate the defective unit (tempting to invest in another Panasonic). I have, remember, 8 of these Daikin sets so do not want to replace each set as it goes down.....

What should the voltage be on the 3 wires (red/yellow/blue) that link the electronics on the split indoor and out door units? Oerhaps that number will confirm if the PCB are working.