Help needed again, Sorry lads

[Latte]

Hi all,
To my horror, another Daikin unit failed again today.
The unit is a Daikin RY71DJ7W1 1996 R22 3 phase.

Condenser fan motor not coming on. No wiring diagram in site

The motor has 8 wires going to it as follows.

4 from CN14 on main board, Red,Black,Blue & orange. Only 240 on Black
2 from CN11 on main board, Both grey, 240 on both.
2 from a relay with 4 terminals, only 2 used, white & yellow wires both dead.

3 LED's 1 & 2 red - Nothing, LED3 Green flashes.

Anyone got a diagram or can tell me how this motor works !!!!

Thanks

Raymond

[bernard]

Hi THERE

WHAT FAULT CODE DO YOU HAVE

REGARDS BERNARD

[Mark]

Hi Raymond

Of memory some 3 phase daikin units used a single phase two speed motor-
white and yellow= capacitor.
Orange,Blue,Black=Motor speeds.
Red from motor=neutral.
I may be wrong?
Best regards
Mark

[frank]

Hi raymond

The multi coloured wires are the speed control wires i.e. different voltages at different times. The 2 grey wires are the thermal overload wires - if you have 240 volts on each then the motor hasn't tripped on temperature. The yellow and white wires are the motor capacitor wires.

Sorry that I haven't got a wiring diagram at home so at the moment I can't post one. If you still need one then PM me with an e-mail address and I'll send one from the office. I've just looked on the technical info site at Space Air and all they show are the current models so no luck there.

On the R407C units the outdoor can run for hours without the fan running when it is operating in heating mode depending on the ambient. I've seen the condenser coil (evaporator) with up to 2" of ice and still no fans running.

What other symptoms is the unit showing?

The 2 red LED's only show when you have a fault. The green LEd blinks to show that the PCB is healthy. On the indoor unit you should have 2 green LED's blinking. One shows that the PCB is healthy and the other shows that the transmission between indoor/outdoor/controller is healthy - this one blinks at varying speeds.

frank

[bernard]

HI Raymond

Just having a look in my books the RY71DJW1 has a 70 W Fan motor

has a Outdoor unit fan motor safety thermostat off:135 c on below 120 c

Regards bernie

[Mark]

Out of interest frank are parts for this model available??

[frank]

Hi Mark

Yes - all parts are available. We've just had parts shipped in from Japan for old 'D' class models at no extra charge. Just had to wait a little longer.

[Mark]

Just had to wait a little longer.

Never

[Latte]

Hi guys,
I am only looking at it after another engineer gave up with it on friday.

He replaced the compressor as it was seized, but said it was tripping out on F3 (i think). Obviously went to site and found con fan not working. Fitted gauges, unit going up to 350psi and cutting out. Discharge line out of pot too hot too touch so assuming going out on discharge sensor, Suction rinning about 40 when cuts out.

As per usual, just getting into it when called out to a more important job so thought i would post to see if anyone had any info.

Regards

Raymond

[cooltrain]

Hi Raymund,

Hope this diagram will help.

Best regards.

[frank]

Hi Raymond

The old D series of condensing units operate on R22. To have the unit tripping at 350 HP and 40 LP does not seem right. The HP is factory set at around 375 so not to far out there but the LP is factory set much below 40psig. As it is on R22 the condenser fan should be on all the time when in cooling mode but may not be on all the time when in heating mode. As the unit is an RY then it is definately heat pump. Don't worry to much if the condenser fan is not running when in heating mode - this is normal dependant on the ambient and the load and the head pressure. With Daikin, always trust in the fault code. If you think that the system is not functioning correctly but the controller has a steady red light and no fault code then there is NO fault.

The F3 fault code relates to a high discharge pipe temperature fault. This commonly can be due to either a shortage of refrigerant or the pipe sensor has become dislodged from the little pipe socket under the insulating cover. I've had both causes in the past. If the sensor is attached in the socket and has a resistance reading of around 250k ohms at 20C then you must check the gas charge. A shortage of refrigerant will result in high discharge temperatures as the compressor is not getting sufficient suction gas cooling. The only way to do this is to recover and weigh the charge and to compare against the name plate - don't forget to add any additional charge amounts if the pipework length is above the factory charge length.