Daikin control wiring

[mchild]

Two questions on the control wiring for a Daikin VRV-S system.

Is it possible to run either the Transmission or Remote Control wiring through a third party float switch that will be attached to a condensate overflow pan? Assuming it is acceptable, is there a better cable to use - Transmission or Remote Control?

Also, is it acceptable to have splices in any of this control wiring? If so, is there a preferred method for reconnecting - wire nuts, bullet connectors?

Many thanks.

[Brian_UK]

I think that if you interrupt the control wiring in any way you will end up with a fault condition that will shut down the whole system.

As for wire connectors, as long as they are good quality and maintain electrical integrity then they should be OK.

[mchild]

I think that if you interrupt the control wiring in any way you will end up with a fault condition that will shut down the whole system.

As for wire connectors, as long as they are good quality and maintain electrical integrity then they should be OK.

Thank you Brian.

So running control wiring through any type of micro switch would cause a fault. Is there a way to stop a indoor ducted unit if condensate does start dripping from it into a catch pan placed under it?

The placement of the indoor ducted air handlers is such that it would be a lot easier to pre-wire them and just have a short section of wiring coming out of it that we would then connect to when the unit is put into place. This would be for the tranmission and remote control wiring. The easiest way to connect would be with simple wire nuts but if that is considered less than acceptable for a long term solution we could do it with another connection type. Just wondered if there was any exerience that would direct us.

[Daikin=Overated]

Wouldn't it be easier just to use the high level alarm switch on the condensate pump cut the mains power to the indoor unit? I realise it's a VRV and that this could generate a fault code, but it shouldn't shut down the entire system surely. If for example your using a central station to control each indoor unit then usually the controller would prompt the fault on the one indoor unit based in reflection of it's unit address??

J

[frank]

If you break the comms cable through a high float switch on a condensate pump you will generate a U4 fault.

if you break the mains to a fan coil you will cause the whole system to fault/stop.

The better way to do it is to break the small wire high level float connection on to the pcb from the lift pump and wire your external high level float in series. This will generate a HLF error on the affected fan coil only and allow the rest of the system to continue operating.

[mchild]

If you break the comms cable through a high float switch on a condensate pump you will generate a U4 fault.

if you break the mains to a fan coil you will cause the whole system to fault/stop.

The better way to do it is to break the small wire high level float connection on to the pcb from the lift pump and wire your external high level float in series. This will generate a HLF error on the affected fan coil only and allow the rest of the system to continue operating.

Perfect! Thanks.

[koolandthegang]

Inside of a ducted unit there is a green plug on the pcb this is the units very own high level cut out, you can splice into one side of this and it will only affect the unit in question. if you interupt the control wiring you can shut the whole system down for the sake of one pump....

[Krondor]

As was discussed here, you cannot interrupt neither the central control wiring (f1 f2) nor remote control wiring (p1 p2). However, if you like to interlock the operation of the indoor unit with other devices (pump, microswitch, motion sensor etc') you can use the dry contacts (t1 t2) on each indor in order to stop its operation.

[mchild]

As was discussed here, you cannot interrupt neither the central control wiring (f1 f2) nor remote control wiring (p1 p2). However, if you like to interlock the operation of the indoor unit with other devices (pump, microswitch, motion sensor etc') you can use the dry contacts (t1 t2) on each indor in order to stop its operation.

Thank you Krondor.

I thought the T1 - T2 contacts were to be connected between any indoor unit and the outdoor so the outdoor could be stopped. If you short between T1 - T2 that will stop the individual indoor?

[Krondor]

yes, exactly

[brunstar]

hey guys,
don't use t1 or t2, why don't you use the high level alarm on the pcb, i think it is either x8a or x15a have a look at the wiring diagram, when this is open it will bring up an A3 fault which is a condensate high level alarm float switch which will shut the expansion valve and stop that unit only from cooling, if the unit you have has a condensate pump in it from manufacture, put your pumps high level switch in series with it.
that way will be the best and easiest way to achieve it. when it faults it will point you in the right direction straight away.

[roesli]

yes too

[mchild]

hey guys,
don't use t1 or t2, why don't you use the high level alarm on the pcb, i think it is either x8a or x15a have a look at the wiring diagram, when this is open it will bring up an A3 fault which is a condensate high level alarm float switch which will shut the expansion valve and stop that unit only from cooling, if the unit you have has a condensate pump in it from manufacture, put your pumps high level switch in series with it.
that way will be the best and easiest way to achieve it. when it faults it will point you in the right direction straight away.

The x8a connection is listed as the float switch. Is this the connection you were thinking of wiring in series?