Samsung RL39WBSW - constant mechanical noise

[suncycle]

This fridge freezer (4 years old) is now emitting a loud but constant mechanical noise that sounds like a either a motor with worn bearings / cogs or a fan blade repeatedly striking an object.

Even when set on ECO (-17 and 6) the freezer temperature appears normal but the fridge is over cooling (ice crystals are beginning to form on cooked meat).

If I turn the power off and back on then one of two things happen:

1) The appliance starts as normal and after 15 to 30 minutes the compressor stops and within a short period the noise described above starts and continues ad infinitum until I power off the appliance.

2) The appliance starts but after 30 - 60 seconds everything stops and the control panel shows 'rd', presumably an error code.

With great perseverance i.e. continually restarting the appliance it will eventually stay on but then reverts back to the behaviour described at 1)

The compressor seems to be working OK, though there is a small quantity of water in the reservoir above the compressor.

Before I empty the freezer and gain access to the various components I was hoping another member may be able to shed some light on which component may be at fault.

[paul_h]

Damper is faulty. Rrd fault means the flap that lets air into the fridge is not right. Could be iced up or faulty motor (explains the noise), or the sensor that tells it whether it's in the right condition isn't reading right.
To get to it, you need to empty the freezer, remove back cover plate, then you see the motorised damper that spins around, make sure it free of ice, the stick on heater works, the magnetic senser, damper and switch are all seated properly.
Every time you turn the power on it chould spin around a few times freely. Then stop closed if the fridge is cold, or stop half open if the fridge needs cooling.
If it still plays up you'll need a kit (new sensor, damper, seal and bigger heater)

[suncycle]

paul_h
Thanks for the info, I will try your suggestions this evening.

[suncycle]

I decided to try the simple things first:
Turned the power off for 10 hours.
When I switched the power back on the noise returned, though at a reduced level. After 5 minutes the noise subsided and the appliance returned to normal operation.

1 week later and the appliance is still operating normally. I guess there must have been a build up of ice though this has never happened before. Not sure if I will have done any permanent damage to the fan or motor so I will just have to wait and see.

[oweno]

I'd say paul_h is spot on.

and also yourself when you say "fan blade repeatedly striking an object"

firstly little recap on how this "frost free" freezer works.

chiller bit sits in a section at the back of the freezer cabinet (seperated by clearish bendy plastic bit). fan blows over chiller bit into freezer.

flappy bit paul talks about directs some cold air up to fridge.

over period of time chiller bit frosts up like any other freezer. so a timer (on the PCB under the control on the front panel) activates - stops the chilling - turns off the fan - and turns on some heaters to defrost it - which then drains out the back onto the tray ontop of the compressor - which as it runs gets hot and evaporates this liquid.

so what happens is....... either the timer dies - or the heater dies.... and the ice builds up and up and up until it gets so thick that (a) the fan starts hitting it and (b) the flappy bit get stuck and never closes and makes the fridge go too cold. and (c) your electric bill goes up because it's not running so efficently - as it will also do if there's zero space down the side of this model because that's where the radiators are burried.


note that the flappy bit also closes when the fridge door opens. - so if the vents in the back of your fridge are still chucking out cold air more than 30 seconds after opening the door your flappy bit is stuck.

I have been attempting to fix a friends like this and it seems to run for 6 hours or so - then defrost- but never come out of defrost mode :-( if anyone has clues (other than 'change the whole PCB') I'd appreciate it.

thanks. O.

(and yes the friend has been told - get a normal one that is NOT frost free an has a radiator on the back next time since simple = good in the land of the domestic appliance.)

(the low tech fix is to run your frozen food stocks down every 3-4 months and leave it off and open for 24 hours or so until the ice melts natually !)

[tonto33]

could be fault wiv defrost sensor or thermal fuse that could cause it not to come out of defrost to stop ice build up around baffle damper but some vaseline around the seal

[R600A]

Hi

I have been attempting to fix a friends like this and it seems to run for 6 hours or so - then defrost- but never come out of defrost mode :-( if anyone has clues (other than 'change the whole PCB') I'd appreciate it. 

The defrost heater will be faulty.If the defrost sensor does not reach +17oc then the appliance will not turn back on until either it does or you turn the appliance off and then back on again thus resetting the main PCB,it will then runn until the next defrost cycle and it wiil then not come back on until the sensor reaches +17oc.

Bryan

[frank]

If the defrost sensor does not reach +17oc then the appliance will not turn back on until, either it does, or, you turn the appliance off and then back on again

Bryan

Confused me there Bryan.

What could turn the unit on again if the sensor is not reaching +17C after defrost?

[R600A]

Hi

By turning the appliance off and then turning the appliance back on at either the socket or the switch on the front will reset the control panel and start the cycle again until it goes back into defrost.

Bryan

[frank]

I think you missed the point Bryan