Amana side by side model # asd2626heq

[Taurus]

amana side by side model # asd2626heq
Fridge is maybe 4 years old

Quit working last night, freezer warmed up first, then today the fridge was warm, for the last couple of nights the fridge would buzz then click....(sounds to me like a buzzing starter on a florescent lite)

today after work i tried to trouble shoot problem
First thing i did was vacuum and clean out what dog hair was sucked underneath we have to dogs that shed like a @%$^$&&#^ was hoping it was just an over heating issue with the hair.......no luck not much hair, while cleaning though i did notice that it was very cold underneath and behind the unit....thought that was odd

Buzzing coming from what sounds like underneath near compressor unit, pulled back panel off, now it sounds like its coming from within the bottom half of freezer, pulled that cover off from inside, still cant locate sound.....while in there i checked continuity on defrost element, looks good, well i get a tone on tester....both wires came off at once so i just inserted probes into sockets. So does this mean its a timer. if so where is it? aside from pulling the inside of the fridge apart i have the digital controls located on top sill of fridge where door seal would make contact, my guess would be that the timer is located near by

any and all help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance

[Electrocoolman]

Freezer evaporator could be iced up. No air flow, so no cooling to freezer and fridge. Noise could be fan blades contacting ice.

Unit will need thorough defrosting. Unplug, open doors and leave for 48 hrs.

Defrost fault could be due to defrost timer, heater element or thermal cutout.

If electronic control, then could be sensor or pcb.

Gives you something to go on with anyway....good luck.

Sorry! Have re-read your post....its too late over here in UK!
Sounds like you have electronic control system. The older units had timer down underneath near front, but guess yours does not have this, so all the control will be via the control board. Try looking at the relays and measuring the sensors. Some units used to have wiring diagram stuck on rear of cabinet.

There will no doubt be an over temperature cut out / thermal fuse on the evaporator wired in series with the heater element. you need to check this as well.

[Taurus]

Freezer evaporator could be iced up. No air flow, so no cooling to freezer and fridge. Noise could be fan blades contacting ice.

Unit will need thorough defrosting. Unplug, open doors and leave for 48 hrs.

Defrost fault could be due to defrost timer, heater element or thermal cutout.

If electronic control, then could be sensor or pcb.

Gives you something to go on with anyway....good luck.

When i pulled off the access cover to freezer evaporator there was no ice present, thats where i checked the heater element for defrost i also peek into the bottom half of the cover above the one i removed and seen the fan spinning above evaporator , no ice in there either

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated

[Electrocoolman]

OK, as I said its too late to think straight!! Need to get to bed!

Will get back to you soon. Does fan run quietly with cover off? Is there more than 1 fan?

[brianubaldo]

taurus
did you check the noise filter in the pcv board?

did you try open front pannels fridge and freezer? then push the door swith while the door is open so that you can troubleshoot the inner of unit.. if no physical contact inside the ref. check your fan. fan can also contribute that unusual sound.

[Taurus]

one fan over evaporator unit (runs fast and quit) same as bottom cooling fan, cant see any issues there

as far as testing the noise filter....(I don't do this for a living) wouldn't have a clue as to where to start

Still cant find the Phantom Noise (Buzzzzzzzzzz..Click) about every 90 seconds or so, when plugged in, for the last two days i have had it unplugged until i figure this out or hire someone to do it......i would rather attempt this myself. I just wish i knew more a bout a fridge other than it a place where i get cold beer from

[Electrocoolman]

Hi Taurus,

Your Buzz...click is probably the compressor trying to start, and then cutting out on the protector The start relay or possibly the capacitor (if one fitted) is the first port of call.

If the compressor has been sitting there trying to start, it will probably be warm/hot to the touch, which tells you that power is reaching the compressor.

You are the only one who knows you limitations......so you might not be able to check the rest, however you will need test equipment to measure resistance and continuity.

With all power removed you need to get into the compressor terminal box where the start device (relay or PTC) is situated. This can be fiddly. The next step is to remove the electrics to expose the compressor terminals (3 pins in a triangle shape). The middle pin (top or bottom) is the common; there should be a few ohms between the middle and each other pin....one will be say 5 ohms the other should be say 10 ohms (these are ballpark figures, but one will be greater than the other) If you don't have a circuit on one pair then the compressor is u/s.

The start relay can be one of two sorts...one has golden brown coloured wire visible, and the other is a semiconductor device that is a PTC thermistor.
The first type can be checked with you meter....the circuit is made when you turn it upside down (to its normal mounted ) orientation. The 'switched' circuit is between the connector for the pin not connected to the golden wire and the terminal which has a wire connected to it. Its easy to do but hard to explain!

It will have a part # on it. The compressor will also havea part # and make. You will need to quote these to get the correct replacement.

The PTC type often crack and break up...this type should not rattle (unlike the wire type). You will need to check these best via replacement.

As a suggestion, take pictures as you dismantle, then you have something to refer to.

A capacitor is sometimes used to help start compressors, and these have two wires that also connect to the relay.

A further suggestion is to get hold of a SUPCO 3-in-1 starting device....these replace all you compressor electrics...overload,relay and capacitor. There are 3 wires to the compressor and the two supply wires.
You will need to know the compressor h.p. (obtainable via the part #). The spare parts shop should be able to help you.

The compressor could possibly be stuck (seized) mechanically, I'm afraid you will only find out if this is the case the hard way after trying the previous steps.

Of course you could always call in a repairer!!

[brianubaldo]

taurus

if your suspect is the compressor mechanical parts.
try to check it with a clamp ampere meter. check the label of the unit. look at the rated ampere of the unit. and compare your actual reading in your clamp ampere meter. if the reading in your meter is much higher than the rated ampere in the label, the compressor is defective (mechanical problem "write this in your technical report, defective compressor is not acceptable by the management. you should specify the cause.).

i agree with the diagnostics of electrocoolman. that buzz and thick is coming from the compressor and overload.