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Hi there,
i would appreciate any help with my problem. we had a power cut today and when the power was restored the unit would not restart. i have a single flashing light but nothing else is hapening. not freezing or chilling. this happened before and i fiddled with ice level switch and ice eject motor and it seemed to work and reset the unit but nothing i do now will bring it back to life. every idea welcome
Thanks
sAMMY................
which light is flashing? It is a fault code
I have a Samsung RS21-DCNS fridge-freezer (American style). After a power cut today I had the exact same symptoms as sammyrally stated above, namely:
- Panel display ONLY showed four flashing green leds (the top line of the right-most "8" in the "88 88" on the panel display). No other leds were lit.
- The fridge and freezer both felt as though they were warming up (no thermometer and obviously no display to verify this)
At this point I should say that I am neither an electrician nor an engineer.
Having read through numerous posts, I recalled something which suggested I remove the ice tray, which shows a "square box of electrics" sitting in front of what I can only class as a 'drip tray'.
I turned off and unplugged the fridge freezer. I then fiddled (no other word for it) with this box, using my fingers to try to ensure everything was properly connected. I turned the fridge freezer back on and the panel display lit up like it should do.
When the display returned it showed the freezer temperature at 5C and the fridge temperature at 15C. The panel display had been off for about 12 hours.
I set the target temperatures, and then activated the "Power Freeze" and "Power Cool" functions.
Approximately 15 minutes later and the freezer temperature is registering 0C, while the fridge is 12C.
My faith in the unit is shot, but I'm hopeful that it will continue to function. Prior to this I'd had no problems whatsoever since purchasing it in April 2006.
Could a power-cut and subsequent power-on jolt the "square box of electrics" so much that it only needed a loose connection physically reconnecting to perform the "repair"? Are these power-cut-jolts avoidable?