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Hi guys ive been leak testing a york chiller and ive found a leaking head on one of the compressors. I tried tightening it up initially with no luck. Replaced the gasket today and it improved the leak but its still leaking. Anyone had this happen ? is there some sort of gasket sealant suitable for compressors i can try for this? i Will try to replace the gasket again tomorrow. And yes i have applied oil to the gasket on both sides. If i cannot get it to seal what are my options?
I believe blue Hylomar is rated for refrigerants (whats the system running on?)
I have had this once on a 2hp compressor, the customer had run it for months with bad valves, it go so hot it burnt the paint off, put a new valve plate in and it still failed, so we changed the compressor for a new one.
I wonder if the block or head is warped?
Did you torque the bolts or do them by feel?
A thicker gasket might seal better.
You can soak the gasket in refrigerant oil, clean the surface real good and tighten the head bolts to the torque stated by the manufacturer.
Hi jbomba.
All of the above make sense. I think I heard somewhere that having oiled the gasket it will eventually seal.
Have you tried running the comp to get it nice and warm and after cooling down, tried re-torquing the head?
2 questions:-
What compressor ( I presume a J?)
What refrigerant? If R134a then I know York use a specific gasket. With a red band around its periphery (Some form of loctite I believe?)
Just because the plain ones are a nightmare to seal on R134a.
Grizzly
hi the chiller is r22. i cant run the system either due to it being empty. I will check the head today to ensure its not warped. Gonna try a bit of leak lock onit today aswell. Wish me luck
Loctite 515 will do the trick if you get desperate. smear on a fresh gasket as it won't seal when oil is present, also make sure none of this gets into refrigeration system. Don't expect the head to come apart easily once sealed.
Hi jbomba
I have done a few 06E compressors and find some take time to bed in and seal, torque down in three stages then there is a range for the last torque so I use the lower end. Give it a couple of days running and check for leaks then retorque to the higher setting. It takes time - cycles of the compressor to heat up cool down and the gasket compresses a little. One speck of paint or any grit will stuff it. I prefer oil on the gasket but some use a gasket grease with copper or zinc in it, never heard of leak lock being used on a gasket. I hate leak lock as I have had a poor success rate with it, but let us know how it goes. I have an oil seep on a head that the compressor had been replaced 9 months ago, since it was supplied by a reconditioner I will call them back to fix the leak under warranty.
Good Luck.
i had one once, and took the cylinderhead to a metal workshop. the have flattened it by 0,02 mm. works great, never had any problem so far.
Ice.
ps; you always have to soak the new gaskets, otherwise they burn in in the joints.
Taking them off hot can create problems with worping. Torquing down correctly can over come problem and repeat torquing as per telsa's suggestion several times as well. If all else fails get head surface ground at a machine shop, probably only a few thou though will make a huge difference.
Or you could if needed lap the head yourself (as I did when an apprentice in NZ). Find some hardened glass and laping paste (used for valves) & rub round in circles for about an hour or two, successively with finer grit. Check with a DTI or ruler and tourch.
Think you might mean lapping in a figure 8 pattern on your glass block Tesla ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tesla
Initially 800 wet and dry, then 1200 paper. These days i would get RSI so off to the machine shop it goes.
Hi Mike and Telsa.
oh yes, been there done that with shaft seals and cylinder heads. Lapping in figure eights and change direction after 50. can you imagine an apprentice these days doing that. NOT
Did not have the benefit of grinding paste on the glass, that was restricted to steel plates that were surface ground after every use. The glass plates were limited to Brasso for shaft seals faces, next was polishing shafts for shaft seal again with Brasso and a strip of rag.
I did not use glass but went out to a granite tile place and bought some end of box granite floor tiles and checked them for warping. They were flat enough ( no wavering when looking at the reflection of a bare flourescent tube from all angles) and then one was stuck to a wooden backing with Sikaflex ( flexible, but a never remove sealer) and made a nice flat surface block.