Daikin not working... many problems

I've just joined today and unfortunately I have found I'm not alone in thinking Daikin's technical support stinks... even here in Australia!!!

I installed a Split system (Ceiling mounted ducted type) in Nov last year. The cooling and heating works but does not have climate "control" capabilities. As I'm not getting any support from my installer or Daikin themselves I have decided to attempt to problem diagnose myself. Hopefully Daikin will help if I given them the resolution :confused: . To make matters worse, Daikin Australia's website is crapola. Not only will they not give me the codes but you can't download any technical info. Actually, there is no "log in" functionality on their website. This does not help when I have model numbers that noone else is using anywhere else. Is that because I'm Ozzy or do I have the latest everything... don't know!

I have a 16kW outdoor unit (FDY16LV1) and a new 7 day timer remote controller (BRC1D61 which is similar to BRC1D527). I have two other termometers next to the controller to measure accuracy of controller.

Issue 1: When I have cooling only turned on the unit seems to maintain a temperature which is 2 degrees cooler than the actual room temp. For example, when it is actually 21 the controller is measuring 23 according to Code 41-1. Is this normal? I have set it to measure from remote controller using 10-2-01 and 50-0-01 (given to me by Daikin)

Issue 2: I have set the indoor fan to cycle with outdoor fan using 11-2-02. This works for cooling only but when heating it doesn't switch off with the outdoor fan. This means when it is set to 23 it heats to 23.6 but then blows cold air until it hits 20.9 and then starts to heat again. Shouldn't this setting apply to heating as well?

Issue 3: When I use any auto mode the mixture of both previous issue means the temperature is + or - 2 degrees of the set temp. How do I change the setpoint temperature? Is it possible?

Any hints or tips are appreciated. Daikin will not give me all of the possible codes, just some. And these codes alway change depending on who I get at their tech support.

Hello stankovicv and welcome
I'll try to help through my own experience.
At first try to set your system on code 20 : 2.01 to 2.02 this will eliminate regulation control with the brc sensor. Then compare the return air by reading the code 41 : 01 and a digital thermometer.
Then you'll appreciate if the on/off cycle is good with standard differential ( 1°c factory set ).
In addition let's say it's sometimes interesting to buy a remote sensor ( krcs01/1 ) and place it in a logic area of your room. You can just try to remote the actual sensor to test it it's the same ( the kit is deliver with a nice small box but the sensor is the same...).
About technical information on this forum try the search item i think you'll find links.
About the 50 codes you have to take care because we have no official information about it and maybe it will lead you far from your problem, unfortunately...
About AUTO CHANGE OVER MODE it's +2/-2°c diff.
Use this mode if you have a great difference of loads in your room in the same day ( i.e it's usefull in a cinema ).
Ok today it's first step of re-election day in France !!! We are on sunday and we work hard on this forum... Great !
Regards
cool#9

Just set the picture even further, I have a standard Ozzy home with 9 foot ceilings. The return air is slightly off the constant zone (about 5 meters away) and the BRC sensor is almost directly under the returns on the wall (about 1.5 meters away) . The difference between the BRC and return is usually about 3 degrees (using 41-0 and 41-1 codes) which confirms to me the BRC sensor is probably faulty. Although heat rises I doubt there is a 3+ degree difference while the indoor fan is blowing.

I'm trying the return thermostat 20:2-02 as you suggested and will post my findings after a few more days of trials. But isn't this concept slightly flawed if the indoor fan switches off? How can a thermostat measure temperature of a room if the fan is off and not sucking room air in?

Either way, so far it seems as though it is working out what the temperature is... I just can't work out how its doing it.

Also, I've had it on AUTO mode and when it turns on the Cooler it turns the fan off when the outdoor unit switches off (as I programmed it to) but when it determines the Heater has to be used it doesn't turn off the indoor fan. This is surely a fault:confused:

Thanks for your help on your Sunday... much appreciated.

May I ask why you want the indoor fan to switch off when the condenser fan shuts down?

You ask the question as to how can it measure temperature without airflow and yet you have programmed it to do just that, I am confused!

Of course you can ask. Before I joined this site I found you and Cool#9 to be two of four great contributors to this site... you are my guru.

There are a few reasons why I don't want the fan constantly on. Primarily because it is a waste of electricity. My A/C is always ON keeping the same climate. However, the outdoor unit may only need to heat or cool for 10% of the day meaning the indoor fan is running unnecessarily for 90% of the day. Not only is that an extra cost but I am in a low lying area and I will be the first to suffer from the greenhouse effect and rising water :D

My kids and visitors have also complained about the cold air blowing when the heating turns off.

I have previously had a Carrier and didn't find the unit to work well but I have now found that their controller is MILES ahead of Daikin. On the Carrier I could change the fan from "Lo" to "Hi" to "Auto" at the press of a button. With the Daikin I have to learn how to program the controller. Even worse, I was shown that the Daikin did have an Auto mode on their controller. The Operations Manual of the BRC sensor says it has a "L" (Low), "H" (High), "HH" (extra high) and "A" (Auto) mode. After spending thousands of dollars to have it installed I found that I could only toggle between "L" and "H". Most Daikin support staff don't even know it is possible to set it to Auto.

This is why I have spent a lot of time trying to get the BRC sensor to work correctly but it seems to be 2 degrees off when cooling and -1.5 degrees off when heating.

I have only temporarily reverted back to the return air sensor because I am testing what Cool#9 has suggested.

I hope this makes sense. Feel free to tell me if my logic does not make sense. I'm just an IT guy.

OK, my findings...

The return air sensor seems to be measuring the temperature more accurately, so this seems to tell me the BRC sensor is faulty.

More interestingly, I have tested the Auto mode a bit more. I set the temp to 23 after bringing the temp down to 20. This means the controllers chooses the Heating Auto mode. The Daikin successfully maintains approx 1.5 degree more at 24.5.

When the outdoor unit switches off it keeps the indoor fan. So it blows cold air until the outdoor unit switches on and then it blows warm air until it reaches 24.5 (while still having it set to 23).

I then lower the temp to 21 so that the controller flicks to Cooling Auto but before it switches on I push it back to 23. The controller does not flick it back to Heating Auto. Instead it cools the room down to 21 and maintains that temp. Therefore I have proven the one Auto temperature setting of 23 will keep the room either at 21 or 24.5 depending on whether the controller determines the Cooler or Heater should be used.

Also, while on Cooling Auto the indoor fan switches off while the outdoor unit is off (which is what I want for heating as well).

Surely this is not as good as a Daikin gets???

Anyone with any hints or similar experience? I paid a lot of money so that my A/C can maintain a specific temperature. Have I made a bad choice?

Hi stan, i agree with brian turning of the air flow is generally not a good idea if you want tighter control. If the unit is flicking between heating and cooling mode and over shooting set points constantly then I would maybe be looking at installation error rather than software issue as Dakin is realy good kit, mainly i would be looking at air distribution, can you give any info on the grilles installed, type and position, also how many rooms it conditions.
Also bear this in mind as cool 9 says there is a 2 degree dif in auto mode so if temp set at 22 auto in cool mode and the room temp is dropping naturally (evening or early moring) then the system would wait until 20 degrees before selecting heating and vice versa for cooling. auto mode is like this for most ac and can be dificult to maitain a steady temp if heat gains change alot during the day.

I now think I get what Cool#9 was saying about +/-2 degrees. Are we saying a range between 21 and 25 is acceptable??? As an IT guy I find it hard to believe it is not possible to program a unit to switch on if it increases or decreases by 0.5 or 1 degree. And I find it hard to believe that I have to accept it this day and age.

Its pretty hard for me to explain grills etc... without knowing terminology, but I can say I have 8 vents and 3 of them are in the one open plan area and its the constant zone. They are all closer to windows and therefore the air is being pulled across rooms toward the return air in the centre of the home.

I can also say that if its 21 at the controller then its 21 throughout the house in every room. So install seems OK.

So if I have to accept fluctuations of up to 4 degrees then is there anyway to program these units to switch the indoor fan off when the outdoor unit is off? Keep in mind my first post which mentions the code I have already used. This works on Cooling but not heating. I want this because it blows really cold air when the temperature is released. Keep in mind that this is not a Variable Air Flow indoor unit and it is not an inverter outdoor unit. So when the outdoor unit switches off the unit inside blows HEAPS of cold air.

Even better, is it possible to have the HH and A fan levels activated? It would be nice to be able to select Auto at the press of a button (as per the Manual).

Hi stankovicv
i'm late with your problem but maybe this would be helpful.
I found setting for BRC61C61 ( not D51 ), see the pdf attachment.
At first i think you'd better change the 1st setting you made 50.0.01 and replace it to the original.
50 code could disturb many other things...in many ways.
Then try the setting 21 : 2.01 to 2.02 to cut the fan as you like both on heating and cooling mode.
Keep the setting 20 : 2.02.
Also try the setting 23 : 6.01 to 6.02 if you want to increase ESP ( External Static Pressure ). !If not available i think you'll be able to change the wiring on the terminal trip of the indoor fan.( see wiring diagram inside the electrical box ).
In all case in setting mode DO NOT FORGET TO PRESS THE CONFIRM BUTTON and after press TEST... 88 must appear if the setting is taken (reboot sequence / not for the 50 codes).
I don' t think air fan auto mode will be available by any code because it's a ducted type.
If you succeed you may fit a remote sensor inside you room as i told you before.
TAKE CARE: This strong indoor fan doesn't like on/off pattern so check you dot not create short circle with the placement of the sensor ( even hard for your non inverter compressor !!! ).
The problem is that in France we don't have the FDY16LV1 !!!
This pdf is from a FDY16KFV1 documentation given by a friend.
Kind regards
cool#9

Hi Stan

An extra comment I shoild have put in, the + or - 2 is for change over mode from heat to cool, once in a selected mode ie cooling and the heat gain is constant you should be getting no more than a 1.5 degree diff. Any tighter and you would need a close control unit aprox 3 x cost of normal split and not realy viable for domestic installs.

How ever tweak it as best you can to get the best performance.

Thanks Cool#9 and Coolments. The unit is still set to 21 : 2.02 (which is the same as 11: 2.02) since Daikin gave me the code in January. Same as the external static pressure setting which is set to 23 : 6.02. However, this setting only cuts out the indoor fan during Cooling operation, not heating. Is this a fault with the Daikin?

Are you suggesting this setting works on the units you have in Europe? I know they are not identical units but so far the list of codes you supplied in the PDF are the same as the codes I was given by Daikin.

I will give your suggestions about the remote sensor to my installer to improve the temperature accuracy.

As for the Fan problem... does anyone have any more suggestions?

Hi stankovicv
I read your post today and i tried to put code 21 : 2.02 to a customer with a FDQ125B+RQ125B (ducted split heat pump type 14kw ):
The indoor fan turns off both in heating and cooling mode !!! while thermostat off...
In your case i maybe have an explanation.
Some overseas product not available in France allows to put an electric heater via an adaptator to warm the supply air in heat pump mode.
This kit is lead by a two stage thermostat.
In this case maybe the software does not allow to stop the indoor fan to avoid fire in the duct.
These unit are forbidden now on the French market because of higher power consumption.
Maybe your FDY16 is provided with a little bit different soft as i think this product is from Japan factory.
For the French market they are built in Belgium by DENV.
Also you can reduce fan to super low using another code ( see attachment on my last post ).
Note that code 10 or 20 (or code 11/21, etc...) makes the same result if you change one setting...the difference is that you'll ever see the factory setting in the first code.
It's useful when you have to compare initial setting with current setting.
Hope this helps
cool#9

Cool#9, I'd like to thank you for being the only one to tell me the difference between 10 and 20 codes. The Australian Daikin Technical Support either didn't want to tell me when I asked OR they had no idea... probably the latter!!!

This is scarey considering they told me to set a code 50. If the experts in this forum don't know what code 50's and 60's are for then Daikin's Tech Support probably have no chance of knowing.

BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY...

I tested the low fan speed option you mentioned and found it was set to "22: 3.02 - Set Fan Speed". This would have been changed in the early days under instruction of Daikin Tech Support in the attempt to activate the HH and A Fan Speeds. I changed it to "22: 3.01 - Fan Speed LL" as you suggested and.... voila... the fan now turns off in heating mode.

Deduction: The 22:3.02 setting must override the 21:2.02 option.

Thank you soooo much.... I owe you big time!!!

Hi stan
I' m so glad you succeed with this problem (fan off).
It's the very first time i join a forum and i'm surprise by our professionnal exchange, with all the members.

Anyway take also care of the good suggestions of coolments, brian uk ... Your complete answer is surely splited into many threads.
Kind regards
cool#9

hey mate
i am coming from a lot of vrv work so iam not sure if all the codes are the same but!! 10 2-01 does not use the remote control sensor Only it uses both thats why he gave you a code 50 0-01 to change as well (this is not the code 50 given to me on the vrv courses ??). using both sensors has caused me nothing but grief! unit over shoots.
secondly
just a thing to check do you have the code 10 2-03 available??
if you have that setting that is what you want to enter to use the remote control sensor only (this is a new code to replace 50 4-01 )
thirdly
what part of australia are you living in? the reason for this question is humidity!
if you are living down near wangarratta or somewhere like that if your humidity is to low eg 40% humidity should only allow your unit to pull about 24 degrees room temp due to your coil temp and unit will cut out for a minimum time approx 10-15 min a code can be put in to adjust parametres to run better in low humidity!! i am a queenslander so now humidity probs for me!
se how that goes with 10 2-03 cause i am living in the uk and constanly get between 2 and 4 degrees difference between remote sensor and return sensor especially on ducted systems

sorry forgot to say in auto mode
12 4-03 changes the set point by 2 degrees (12 4-02 by 1 degree 12 4-01 is default)
eg set is 23 degrees in auto cooling, while in cooling will maintain generally 22-24 when unit switches to heating the set point drops automatically to 21 degrees and maintains 20-22 but because heating usually overshoots i find that it usually maintains about 20.5 to 22.5 (on my daikin service checker) and the customers find it doesnt continually change from heat to cool (saving power) and is more comfortable all round
give it a shot you can always switch it back!!

Thanks for the advice Barry2000. Sounds like your units there have the setting I want and should have... however... I cant select 10:2-03. I only have 10:2-01 & 10:2-02. And thanks for explaining the 50:0-01. How did you know what the code 50 does? Do you have a list considering a lot of people on this forum would like to know.

Secondly, I have a 12:3... and 12:5... but can't get to 12:4...:( Again, this is the type of thing I want. Something that lowers the setpoint to 1 degree. But I'm sort of glad to know I'm not the only one that has difficulty with the unit overshooting.

To answer the question of humidity.... what is humidity? :D The only reason I know what humidity feels like is because I've been in a sauna once, and also because I lived in Queensland for a while and couldn't handle the humidity. I live in Adelaide where a humid day is 42% but usually my thermometer reads "Lo" because its too low to measure!!! So are you telling me Daikin's don't work as well in low humidity environments? Can you expand on this? Why would it be an issue? Keep in mind I'm an IT guy in case this is something all A/C techs should know.

Can someone also explain the External Static Pressure setting (13:6)? What does it do and when should I use Standard, Low or High Static Pressures?

Also, 41:00 gives me a temp reading from the BRC sensor (I think) and 41:01 is the return (I think again). What is 41:02? Looks like it reads the same as 41:01. Does anyone have a list of 40 codes?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stankovicv

I cant select (1)10:2-03. I only have 10:2-01 & 10:2-02. And thanks for explaining (2)the 50:0-01. How did you know what the code 50 does?
Secondly, (3) I have a 12:3... and 12:5... but can't get to 12:4...:(

(4) Can someone also explain the External Static Pressure setting (13:6)? What does it do and when should I use Standard, Low or High Static Pressures?

(5)Also, 41:00 gives me a temp reading from the BRC sensor (I think) and 41:01 is the return (I think again). What is 41:02? Looks like it reads the same as 41:01. Does anyone have a list of 40 codes?

---

Hi Stan how are you ?
(1)The code 10(20) 2-03 is a new one to choose the wired remote control sensor, it depends on your BRC, i've already test it and it's not as good as a remote sensor KRCS01/1
(2) i'm against changing 50 codes without knowing exactly the whole change it leads. The new code may also change freeze up detection.. or something like that...
(3) As i know this is available for VRV unit only to change the auto mode differencial on a BS BOX with heat recovery series.
(4) It depends on the ducts you made.
Usually we take care of ESP before choose and install a duct unit to be sure the indoor fan will be strong enough against pressure loss.
In your case the rotation will be higher or lower with a different torque but what did you need at first time ???
(5)41 :02 gives you the indoor coil temperature i think it was during a thermostat off reading...
Kind regards
cool#9

Thanks Cool#9, my installer was suppose to be here this week to discuss the sensor and other stuff that you have already solved for me!!! Surprise, surprise, he failed to come and failed to call. Anyway, I still have to discuss the remote sensor (KRC) option with him.

As for Static Pressure, it was set to Normal in the early days but Daikin asked me to set it to high. I can't say I noticed any difference.

Thanks for your advice and your willingness to help. I'm seriously thinking I should have asked for an installer from France or the UK to install my A/C ;)

hey mat just with the humidity
ONLY ON COOLING if your trying to achieve a room temp of 21 and you got only 40% humidity because the unit is only taking out sensible heat and not latent (low humidity) the coil becomes oversized (basically put) and therefore your coil tempreture drops (due to the lower heat load) and when you are lookin at your coil sensor 41 02 (this is your coil sensor it looked the same as your thermostat because the compressor wasnt running)
if it goes below 0 for more than a few minutes it will cut the unit out for a minimum time (about 10 -15 min) regardless of what temp your room is at! a feature to stop the coil from icing up!!! most good brands of split a/c do this not just daikin!!
check this if you find it is not achieving temp there is a code that can help you but i would have to dig it out of my files (not easy when your crap at paperwork)

since your an it guy it also happens in server rooms that are just using split systems to cool them thats why you can wind them down to 16 but the room temp is 22 degrees not always is it cause they are sized wrong assome people think! thats why you should have close control units with humidifiers inbuilt!

units are designed to have 50% hum but at about 40% you may only pull 23 -24 degrees according to daikin!!
let me know if you are having this prob and i will see if i can dig out the code

Thanks for your advise on potential low humidity problems. I, fortunately, don't have that problem. Actually, when I say my unit cannot keep the correct temperature it is because the Cooling is too cold, not that it can't get it cool enough.

During 42 degree days, if the remote controller was set to 23 it was cooling the house too well and too quickly. It got down to 19 degrees and it still didn't stop cooling. I had to turn the unit off!!! Generally if I set it to 23 it will get down to 21 before switching off.

This could be because I bought a larger system. While everyone was suggesting 12 and 14kW systems, I decided to buy a 16kW system. I hate it when you are sold an under-powered system just so the quote looks good.

Hi stankovicv,

I have a similar spec system to yours except it is an invertor (R410A refrigerant FDYQ160MVR + RZQ160PV4A and remote BRC1D61).

I have tried all the settings except 21 : 2.02 which is not available may be due to the fact that it is an inverter unit. It has been very cold overnight and with unit left on I have the same problem in that it blows cold air when the outdoor unit is not running. Can anyone confirm or have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Vann

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by vlao

Hi stankovicv,

I have a similar spec system to yours except it is an invertor (R410A refrigerant FDYQ160MVR + RZQ160PV4A and remote BRC1D61).

I have tried all the settings except 21 : 2.02 which is not available may be due to the fact that it is an inverter unit. It has been very cold overnight and with unit left on I have the same problem in that it blows cold air when the outdoor unit is not running. Can anyone confirm or have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Vann

---

hey there,
well in relation to your controller blowing cold air, it is just ambient air on low low fan speed, you can cycle the fan with the compressor, if you were going to do this i would suggest a remote sensor in the room otherwise the system will not cycle back on as the return air duct will be full of warm air and the system will think it is at setpoint.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cool#9

Hi stankovicv
i'm late with your problem but maybe this would be helpful.
I found setting for BRC61C61 ( not D51 ), see the pdf attachment.
At first i think you'd better change the 1st setting you made 50.0.01 and replace it to the original.
50 code could disturb many other things...in many ways.
Then try the setting 21 : 2.01 to 2.02 to cut the fan as you like both on heating and cooling mode.
Keep the setting 20 : 2.02.
Also try the setting 23 : 6.01 to 6.02 if you want to increase ESP ( External Static Pressure ). !If not available i think you'll be able to change the wiring on the terminal trip of the indoor fan.( see wiring diagram inside the electrical box ).
In all case in setting mode DO NOT FORGET TO PRESS THE CONFIRM BUTTON and after press TEST... 88 must appear if the setting is taken (reboot sequence / not for the 50 codes).
I don' t think air fan auto mode will be available by any code because it's a ducted type.
If you succeed you may fit a remote sensor inside you room as i told you before.
TAKE CARE: This strong indoor fan doesn't like on/off pattern so check you dot not create short circle with the placement of the sensor ( even hard for your non inverter compressor !!! ).
The problem is that in France we don't have the FDY16LV1 !!!
This pdf is from a FDY16KFV1 documentation given by a friend.
Kind regards
cool#9

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PLz whitch is the confirm button on BRC1D52 controller ?

thank you

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mmaura

PLz whitch is the confirm button on BRC1D52 controller ?

thank you

---

the confirm button is the picture of a clock with the cross through it.
To the left of the timer up and down button.

thank you this work

hello i have a problem with a daikin muliti unit with four indoors units the unit runs great on cooling and heating this will run for a few hors then it switches is self off no fault codes come up can any one help