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We have a constant problem with our fridge freezer, it constantly keeps freezing up and jamming the fan causing an horrendous noise so you take it apart and melt all the ice and the fan starts to work again however this is an ongoing process every 4 weeks at the moment which only started recently, not sure what the cause could be - Any ideas??
could be a few reasons mate ,
is the coil clean? , is the relay on the control stuck closed ? if its not a control type and its a mech stat that too could be stuck closed ( so the compressor keeps running past its termination temp )
what type of defrost ? hot gas , ? off cycle defrost fan only defrost ? there are a few reasons mate what it could be
what is the make of fridge ?
do you have a model number? of serial number?
sorry mate didnt noticed you put the number in ur thread
It sounds like it's not doing it's defrost cycle.
Once you have it defrosted and up and running again just check that the comp is cycling at least. Then you want to start by checking the resistance in the defrost element (assuming that is how it defrosts).
If that checks out you need to find out what commands the resistance to heat and check that this is happening, and so on.
Coil icing up = defrosting problem.
fan icing up (but with coil clear) = water logged insulation, need a new evap cover.
Hi Jambo
You dont say wether it is the fan in the fridge or the freezer that is noisy. There is a thermal fuse a heater and a sensor which could metered to check if in working order. Failling that there is a drain in the panel which houses the fan, this is made of polystyrene which after a while becomes porous and absorbs moisture which in turn blocks the drain. This stops water turns to ice which then builds up and stops the fan from turning. I would make the drain hole larger and if that doesn't work buy a new housing
This isn't just about the drain being too small. None of the older fridges had this problem, and if you feel the weight of an affected evap cover, it's not localized to the drain area, the whole thing is water/ice logged it's that much damn heavier.Quote:
Originally Posted by George3519
This is about either enviromental laws affecting the quality of the polystyrene, or samsung penny pinching to make the fridges cheaper.
I started repairing samsungs back in '03, most side by side twin cool breakdowns were thermal fuse, that's all.
When the single evap coil models came out, then there were massive amounts of coil sensor failures. Funny how the twin coil never has that problem.
Then in the last two years the evap cover has failed, funny how that never happened in the original series.
Either they've ahd to make changes in the polystyrene, or they've done it to save money.
Anyway, the point of my post is to ask whether there's some type of coating you could safely spray on polystyrene that didn't damage it and kept it water tight?
If I understand you are saying there is unprotected polystyrene in contact with the air of the fridge/freezer compartement, soaking up moisture.
I suppose you could try spraying car body work varnish on a test piece to make sure it doesn't melt it. I tried this on the Christmas tree this year to stop the needles falling off. Working so far!
Ok, I'm getting this also, Poly is dry, I need to test the defrost element and drain heater to check their function the main defrost element seems to be 280w, does anyone know the rating of the drain heater or am I just going to hope the test equates to something that seems sensible.
I will be changing the stat anyhow as I'm not convinced this is functioning correctly (anyone know what type it is so as I can confirm)
easy way to find fault is to press and hold both top buttons simultaneously for 8 secs (Power Cool and Power Freeze) the panel will then flash and then a led will stay lit giving the fault code.
When the compressor is running both evaporators are flooded and during heavy ice demand a PF(power freeze) condition might occur. During this time the fan in the refrigerator compartment is off and temperatures at the evaporators may plunge to -20 degrees F. At these low temperatures in the refrigerator cold air migrates down into the drain trough area and can reach temps well below zero. The fix to this problem is to set the freezer temps 0-4 degrees above zero, unplug the refrigerator for 10 seconds then re-plug it in and the display will show the actual temps and not the set point temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Janbo25