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Hi
I woke up to a defrosting fridge freezer (approx 4yrs old) this morning......I'm pretty sure its lost refrigerant as the compressor is running but hot and the discharge pipe is cold
My question is it worth repairing a domestic sealed fridge with r600a? college really put me off domestic fridges with hydro carbon refrigerant after I saw the explosion potential
How would I braze a charging stub onto the sealed pipework?
I have no issues with the repair itself just the hydro carbon
Is it frost free?
Have you checked the condition of the Evapourator and Condensor?
Has it got any internal fans?
I have taken the panel out from the freezer section and theQuote:
Originally Posted by Talylawdi
*fan is working
*coil clean
*electric defrost heater is off
It isnt cool though
How does the fridge section get cool as there is no vent holes from the freezer
Why does the discharge pipe go inside the fridge before going into the condenser?
Did notice the bottom of the filter drier starts cold then rises to ambient temp over a long period so may have a full charge after all
Use hair dryer and heat filter drier with hot air and see if evaporator is cooling after that. If yes, you have moisture in system.Quote:
Originally Posted by ICEmarc
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...0/IMAG0299.jpg
Why does the discharge pipe go into the fridge?
Heating the filter drier had no effect, took 5mins but filter drier is now food again
discharge pipe runs round the inside of the door frame to stop ur doors freezing and also stop condensation around the seals
also depends where the leak is to see if its repairableQuote:
Originally Posted by ICEmarc
I heated the drier up with a hair drier a few times and tap the drier in the small chance it may clear a dessicant blockage and it has worked partially, the evaporator is cooling down but IMO not correctlyIs r600a known to cause blockages as a search of the forum seems to suggest that this could be a possibity
Did you sort out problem? To answer your original question about access to system pipework. You need to attach a line tap valve to spare copper stub connected to the compressor. Trying to braze anything to system pipework that you suspect contains refrigerant HC, HFC, HCFC would be dangerous. Hope i'm not teaching my grandmother to suck egg's...
Unfortunately for my wallet no........it started to cool but the blockage re-appearedQuote:
Originally Posted by Talylawdi
Was thinking of trying to charge with r134a after i replace the drier but imagine the r600a compressor won't like the higher pressures and the oil isn't miscible
I know people who have done that and it has worked. Make sure you blow the capillary line out well though if you take that route. Small bottles of r600a from the suppliers are relitively inexpensive, you'll need a small weighing scale to. Good luck anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talylawdi
That is fairy tale.
Volume flow, for same refrigerating capacity for R600a is double of that for R134a.
Therefore, compressor which pump refrigerant R600a has double displacement than that for R134a.
Also, motor power for pumping of R600a is pretty much lower than that for R134a. That is why R600a cannot be substituted with r134a without changing compressor (and capillarity tube), and than still remains problem with residual mineral oil.
Totally agree with you and have never done it myself, carry r600a on the van. Just heard of other people trying it and hearing tales of succes.
I,m still in the process of gathering info on hydrocarbon refrigerants. +/- or otherwise, thanks nike :) :off topic:Quote:
Originally Posted by nike123
As has been said. Likely moisture in system. DO NOT braze, ONLY use lock rings on a r600a system. Even after venting some will remain in the compressor oil. Any attempt to do this would likely end in a trip to A&E.
Leaks are almost impossible to find on R600a systems. When running the low side is allways at a vachume so draws in through the tiniest if imperfections in the pipe work. New drier and a good vac and regas and it could be fine for a few more years however every week I'm going back to ones iv done a few weeks earlier and there gone again.
The most important thing is a good long vac down with these. Engineers tent to try and rush it and they just don't work.