oil collecting in evaporator

I am having a problem with a GE refrigerator. It doesn't seem to cool properly even though the compressor is running. I cleaned the condensor coil and checked the evaporator for ice. It actually went into defrost while I had it apart, so I know that it defrosts. After that it seemed to start working again. The compressor sounded like it was doing more, the suction line was cooler, and the freezer froze icecubes. A couple of days later, it was warm again even though the compressor was still running. I unplugged it for half an hour or so and when I plugged it back in, it seemed to be working again. The suction line was cold and the freezer seemed to freeze again. I've done this a couple of times over a period of days. Everything electrical seems to work fine. I thought that it might be low on refrigerant, but it does freeze things sometimes, right after being unplugged and then plugged back in. It uses R134a and I know that sometimes with these systems there is a problem with oil collecting in the evaporator. Does this sound like the case here? Can anyone tell me what the best solution is to this problem?

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I thought that it might be low on refrigerant,

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With a domestic refrigerator this is rare as they are a sealed hermetic system.

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It uses R134a and I know that sometimes with these systems there is a problem

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I think you have just found out what we have known for a long time. :rolleyes: My guess is that the capillary is starting to block, reducing the refrigerating capacity. Bear in mind that it is difficult to do a proper diagnosis without seeing the machine

Change the filter/drier and it will be as good as new.

R-134a is the biggest enemy of cap tubes.

From what you describe, there are no electrical problems as neutral feeds the fan through the the defrost heater.

Chemi :)

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Change the filter/drier and it will be as good as new.

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Hi Chemi

Nice to see you got back home safe.

If the capillary is starting to block because of wax then a filter/drier change won't do much good as the damage is inside the small diameter capillary. My experience is to scrap the machine :(

Hi Frank.

Couldn't you do something about the weather?
Snow, sleet, winds and °C under freezing point, What kind of a welcome is that? ;)

With R-134a, there are not many wax cases. It can be sorted by running with the torch flame along the cap tube unless it is located inside the suction tube.

Those GE, fridge/freezers with ice maker are not cheap and Americans, like Israelis, like to have their units around 600L in volume.

It should be fixed.

Chemi :)

When is is not freezing propperly leave it running en check the following:
Temperature top of condensor
temp. middle condensor
temp bottom condensor.
Here you can check if you are condensing and the last part of the condensor is actualy undercooling the liquid.

Check your dryer en make sure that the outlet is in fact lower as the inlet (preffered liquid in on top out at the bottom.

Take temp readings on the evaporator where the cappilerie is going in, halfway en end and check if there is a superheat.

If possible when you have access have gauges connected to compare pressure and temperature.

Had same problems with a silverwing commercial freezer, condensor ventilation not correct (flow the wrong way and recirculating) filterdryer mounted horizontal, so bad condensing, no liquid before the cappilarie.

Fixed condensor airflow, "adjusted" liquidline and dryer and it is working as it is suppoost to be.

SUc6

Victor

Well I went to check the temps on the evaporator and discovered that the fan wasn't running. I apologize to everyone that responded when I thought that I had a harder problem. When I had the freezer compartment apart before, the fan seemed to be running just fine. I guess that's why it would sometimes cool and sometimes not. Now I just need to find a cheap replacement fan for it and hopefully I'll be all set. Thank you all for your helpful suggestions!