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One day I made service of water cooled chillers - Carrier. When I opened dryer filter, it was full in rubber.
How it was happened, rubber in system?
It remains a mystery for me.
Does any body know the same case? Very strange situation.
Any help is appreciating. there are photos.
At a guess, without knowing your system.
A shell and tube Condenser where the baffle gasket has started to disintegrate.
Either way I would assume some sort of cross contamination?
Grizzly
Hi Grizzly,
generally the rubber gasgets on water cooled condenser are the water side. Can only think that contamination is from debri during manufacture. The partion baffles on the gas side are steel sheets, and whitish teflon in evaps.
Have seen melted pipe bungs in driers, pressume they got left in pipe during brazing...
Hi Magoo.
Thanks for that just guessing?
I cannot remember when i last got involved in a condenser.
But have had to replace a certain shell and tube rubber gasket-ed evaporator Annually.
In fact It's usually around now on the pre Christmas rush that said gasket is blown!
I discounted the evap on account it's on the LP side and I could not rationally work out how the high side would get contaminated.
This post is from Kazakhstan. So without being disrespectful, who knows what may be in the system|?
Thanks for the pointer all the same. (In my defense it's been a manic week and I am looking forward to a calm weekend). I did a shaft seal replacement on a Stal S57 earlier on and a right pig it was too!
Maybe samsom will tell us more?
Grizzly
Hi Grizzly.
not a problem, just that several years ago I built alot of Carrier condensers and evaps., sorry assembled. After reshuffling a manufacturing shop to be able to write assembly procedures. I know them inside out as they say.
With Stal S57, check and change the oil pump drive/ flex coupling in front of compressor, they have a hadit of letting go. I agree the shaft seal is a pig the swop out.
Thanks for the further tips, I know who to ask re Carrier Condensers now!
Thankfully I don't have much to do with them.
But you may well be able to advise samsom further!
We will have to wait and see what he says?
Cheers Grizzly
Attachment 8367
So, it was second my day there. I only remark that one of two chillers, always started first , the another chillers included in work very rerely. OK.
I cheked setting in one , it was +9*C
In second chiller , setting was +17*C
Very simple, ja?
I only changed setting from +17*C to +10*C
And I want to say , it was 3 years ago.
Nowdays, chiller working.
but mystery remains
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magoo
If you don't have a clamping ring for "Doughnut" coupling rubber it will be a very difficult job.
To me the coupling is the struggle, not the shaft seal itself.
I have dealt with the Donut's before, Grasso use them as well.
But yes, you are correct the coupling is a bitch!
The s/seal should of been straightforward only on a previous install, someone had miss-aligned the labyrinth seal assembly (very similar to a Howden WRV!)
Causing wear that meant the whole assembly would not align correctly.
With new parts the whole thing slid together nicely.
On this one the real pain was balancing, straddled across the drive motor 7 to 8 feet in the air whilst bent over the drive coupling etc. Is it a relief when you finish!
It would seem samsom does not really require any assistance after all!
The new photo being clearer, looks more like some form of gel than rubber to me?
Could it be "waxed" oil?
Grizzly
samson, is this the first time the driers have been inspected, replace them and arrange to inspect them in 6 mths time, as others have said its probably enthusiastic staff putting freebies in the system
Not sure if im talking about the same thing but i've changed donut joints on vehicle propsharts by using some jubilee clips joined up to keep the donut in shape when i took the blots out between the two couplings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzly
Maybe something similar could be done or a ratchet strap if the joint is very big.
Jon :)
Hi Jon.
Ranger was speaking from experience.
I to have known the un-initiated to undo the drive coupling without first using the "Clamping tool".
( in essence a large jubilee style clip that clamps around the periphery of the rubber coupling.)
It is as you describe basically a large rubber ring, which has 8 holes set in it.
All on the same P.C.D.
4 in a cross pattern are bolted to the drive motor flange then the remaining 4 are bolted to the compressor drive flange.
Therefore as the compressor starts up any Resistance inertia is absorbed!
I have given a more detailed explanation for others Jon, who may not of come across this type of coupling.
Grizzly
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzly
Grizzly, apparently there is no such thing as a routine job from your description & my experience!
Ranger1.
Wise words,My friend!
Hopefully someone reading them will benefit.
I know I do from a lot of the posts, yours included.
Grizzly
Hi Ranger1
very true words, and ditto.