you are suggesting replacing the fuse? of just test if it is getting 240V which cables? blue and black?
i can check it with the multimeter quick if you request that.
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you are suggesting replacing the fuse? of just test if it is getting 240V which cables? blue and black?
i can check it with the multimeter quick if you request that.
by the way i am available on skype palm40489 if you really want to be a help!
the drawing i have shows 3 internal fuses-listed as no 11, switch off and unplug-set your meter to continuity or so it beeps when probes are touching ,just to prove fuses are ok, 20mm glass fuses can look ok but could be faulty
A stupid question...how do I check that gas valve? Where is it located?
Do you mean the heating element for the evaporator to melt the ice hence getting the slab of ice loose from the evaporator to slide to the ice cutter? And if so what do you want me to check of the hot gas valve?
I found some dents in the icemaker after the move so it have gotten a shock during moving.
Which might explain the non functioning?
so you want me to turn on the icemaker and test if there is 240V between the black and the blue cable?(A)
And also to prove the fuses are ok i need to check continuity between the fuse?(B)
Attachment 9130
k20 ignis blizzard continuity test of the fuse (B)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1DDJdlaUNQ
I did unplug the fuse quick and did a continuity test on the video above.
The fuse seems oke to me.
As for the voltage of 240V (A)between the blue wire and the black wire I have to test still.
sorry in the uk k20's defrost via a small solonoid valve at the back of the unit sending hot gas through the evap, never seen 1 with an electric heater instead.
this should be the same? The capillar is being heated by the electric heater like u say.
We are talking about the same thing don't worry.
I meant this:
Attachment 9131
What do you want me to test on this again?
yep-thats it the hot gas valve just check that the crimp connectors are on the coil and not touching the casing
I also forget to tell you that we have 220V here and it is mostly 60 Hz here in St Maarten.
But I think it hardly matters in this case. Because if it would be a motor it will spin faster of slower when you have a difference in Hz. For the icemaker the electronics would have to subject to 60 Hz and the 220V it is given.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxJ-72N0XWI
ignis blizzard icemaker K20 Hot Gas Coil
I took my ipod and filmed it how it was connected.
It is looking good too. It does not touch the casing to me. But in the daylight I can film in a better lightning if you want a clearer video.
But me it is not touching any other sourrounding thing.
It has been working in that position before it has been moved. Does it matter what side you stick the coiler onto the pipe? or there is only one position? It heats it only so I dont see the problem in reversing it.
Let me know what else to film or to check. I post it quick.
looks ok.
right back to the start- when you start the machine up -in ice mode, the wash pump starts,the compressor doesnt,does the condenser fan start?
youve checked the fuses,you are getting 240v to the cutter grid transformer- maybe 19v more but still power there.
youve changed the bin stat,ice thickness stat
does the hot gas solonoid energise?
pump dont even start.
the wash pump starts,
-Does not start
the compressor doesnt,
-Compressor does not start.
does the condenser fan start?
Condenser fan does not start.
youve checked the fuses,
Fuses are oke, I unplugged the fuse in the video above and checked for continuity. And it went well.
you are getting 240v to the cutter grid transformer- maybe 19v more but still power there.
youve changed the bin stat,ice thickness stat
-It is changed now, because I broke off the capillarwhen I was checking the Old binstat. But ordered a new one and replaced it all nice and set to go. The pics are above in this threath as well.
does the hot gas solonoid energise?
This I need to check.
I think I will film the machine when I press the green button in for you to see. Give me a minute or 10!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwrqFM2jvRo
ignis blizzard k20 pump is working, Condenser fan is spinning green and blue button are pressed. The video is seen on the link above. The ice maker is plugged in 220V.
I follow up later with(videos of) the testing of the transformer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE3PXhHWUc8
The link above shows ignis blizzard k20 and I am testing the 220 V coming in on the transformer with a multimeter.
It is being powered and the next video I show the output of it, which is ok and working fine with a 17.6 V. It asks for 18V but it is ok.
http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_edi...id=_iDoJfiQ-wE
ignis blizzard k20 testing the cutter grid with 17.3V( needs to be 18 V but anyways) from the transformer with a multimeter.
I so far have also checked the cutter grid for continuity which is seen on the video above.
Let me know what else to test.
Maybe power between something when the green button is pressed in!
Let me know and I will test it and post a video of it here.
does the hot gas solonoid energise?
This one I can check tomorrow.
What color cable i have to put the multimeter pins in between?Attachment 9135
I guess from the picture above I need to put the green button on and put the pins between the Blue and the Black/red cables?
I'll post my results tomorrow in yet another video.
update:
The hot gas solonoid does not energise, when I have the greenbutton on!
May this be my problem?
Does it have to be energized? I thought it has to be energised only at the end of each cycle, where the evaporator needs to be hot to get the ice slab lose.
Does it have to be energised all the time? I'll take my time and post the video in a short while.
I think the first thing tomorrow that I need to check is the continuity of those two cables. I am talking about the "blue cable" and the "red/black cable".
By the way the ground cable(yellow/green) of the hot gas solonoid goes to the bottom of the casing! It is screwed on a screw that is on the bottom panel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPJlbVsUAto
ignis blizzard k20 testing the hot gas solenoid for energising(220 V) when the green button is pressed.
When I press the green button on and off I can see the multimeter jumping on the display, like going high in numbers and back to 0.
I think I jammed the multimeter pins good enough inside the plugs so they stay in and touch the metal. If it was energised I would see it on the multimeter.
#63
The drain pipe you see in the video is also replaced when I bought this machine and found out it was leaking. It cost me an arm and a leg to have it replaced. That is why it looks white(new) and the rest of it looks dirtier.
So far I have replaced the drain pipe, ice thickness thermostat, the t shaped pipe that gives you the water onto the evaporator. And I also bought a new drain hose that fitted the machine. Altogether 4 pieces bought. And the price I bought it for 446,25 euros with shipping to the NL. I was living then in the NL.
I cleaned all the other stuff and the machine self thoroughly with vinegar diluted in some water and scrubbed with baking soda.
To make this a working machine again. I bought a waterfilter also with the pipes and hoses needed.
But after the move to St Maarten the machine was not working no more.
I can use some ice cubes here because it is very sunny and hot here.
That is a little back story of the machine.
Attachment 9164
I think I might have found the problem.
In the picture you see the H9 Ice Quantity Thermostat. Check the scheme you gave me.
What I saw today is where I circled in the picture I saw copper. Which means it is broken, if the Ice Quantity Thermostat's capillar is broken off.
I need to yet order another part and have it replaced. Beh!
Another chunk of my wallet to have it replaced. If I knew these guys that handled my ice maker was going to be so this rough on the shipping I would have taken those capillar thermostats out of the machine and have it protected before shipping. It could also be the age of it. This machine looks old indeed. And also the climate change have to do with the broken capillars. Also some rough handling maybe by me.
Are there no US seller for these parts? I am always ordering from the UK!
I think this will fix the problem. Cause if the Ice Quantity Thermostat is broken. It tells the machine to shutdown forever.
Which is probably what it is doing right now because my capillar is broken?
How can I still use the machine without replacing the Ice Quantity Thermostat?
Maybe you can help me with this.
Attachment 9166
H9 is the Ice Quantity Thermostat.
It has connection like X1(Thermostat Earthing)
It has 00 which the Black in the scheme.
It has 12 which is the Brown and Red, it leads to the Wash switch!
How can I bypass the Ice Quantity Thermostat and make it work all the time?
By connecting these cables? 12(Brown and Red) and the 00(Black)?
Let me know.
The full scheme again is here:
Attachment 9165
I am right now going to check how to order the Ice Quantity Thermostat on ebay and have it delivered in a few weeks. But maybe if I can already use it without the stat that would be wonderfull.
It needs to be replaced anyway.
Let me know.
I printed out the scheme out of your url today and started tracing back the cables. This lead me to find the broken capillar on the Ice Quantity Thermostat.
This thread is school example of troubleshooting mess.
First you need good electric diagram which is of functional sort and not wiring layout which you found on cover of ice-maker.
Here is proper electric diagram for troubleshooting:
Attachment 9168
Now, when you got that, you can see that, in order to compressor start, you need to have circuit closed at power switch S5 (pressed), Wash swicth 0 (depresed), ice bin thermostat H9 , and overload relay of compressor G .
Any of those contacts open and you cannot start compressor.
Also, if Ice bin thermostat is open, there is no power to solenoids and fan and pump.
At the beginning of cooling cycle, after you start unit first time without water in it, it will not take water until ice thickness thermostat opens its contacts at temperature of -8 to -15 depending of setting of that thermostat. Compressor fan and water pump is working (on dry) during that time. Only after evaporator reaches temperature between -8 to -15 (after 10-15 min.) and switch over to off position, solenoid valve is energized and ice machine takes its first water in, and hot gas defrost valve is energized, and heating of evaporator starts. After evaporator reaches +2°C, ice thickness thermostat switch on, solenoid valves are de-enrgized, water is no longer getting in, and hot gas valve is closed. Pump is energized and cooling of water starts. That is beginning of first ice making cycle. Compressor is energized whole time until ice bin thermostat calls for cooling.
Therefore, you could bridge wires which goes to ice bin thermostat in order to test proper function of rest of ice-maker.
I personally love simplicity of this ice-maker against Icematic but make sure that is connected to water supply through limescale depurator. My first choice.
Hi nike123,
I do like the simplicity of this machine too. So therefore I was putting time into fixing it.
On the cover of my machine I got this scheme. Yours I have not seen anywhere on the machine. It must be from a manual.
http://db.tt/Gor6CnyC
A stupid question, how do I bridge the wires of ice bin thermostat? By just connecting these cables? 12(Brown and Red) and the 00(Black)?
Attachment 9175
Filter
To avoid limescale and having to clean it again with baking soda and vinegar diluted in some water. I opted for a filter system(EVERPURE-4H) after the clean. It does still smell funny though. Although it is clean.
4H Everpure Activated Carbon Water Filter EVERPURE-4H 1 € 40.25
Capacity of the 4H filter is 1500 gallons (5,678 L).
Attachment 9176
Let me know. I just ordered the ice bin thermostat. So that will arrive in 2 weeks time. In the meantime I can use your way of bypassing it to troubleshoot it.
All in all gentlemen, I had the bad luck of with capillars that were broken! In both Thermostats(ice thickness thermostat (£32,94 with shipping from CateringParts uk ebay)and the ice quantity thermostat(£33,98 with shipping from CateringParts uk ebay))spots! I had to replace these and I am almost about 90 euros poorer combined because of this.
Discounting the also replaced items of:
-Whirlpool K20 K40 Drain Tube 3 Way
£28.54 with shipping from abcdirect2u.co.uk
-k20 PARTS - PHILIPS WHIRLPOOL ICE MACHINE WATER SPRAY BAR (130391686293)( the old one is still here but one side was just broken where you screw it, so I replaced it with a new one) From amount €28,63 EUR
To amount £23,98 GBP with shipping from CateringParts uk ebay
Exchange rate: 1 Euro = 0,837582 British Pounds
-K 20 Drain Hose: Whirlpool(I did not have this so I had to buy a drain tube) £21.45 with shipping from CateringParts uk ebay
It is hard to troubleshoot if those capillars are broken somewhere(probably during the shipping, or I can blame the sudden climate change(it's hot here)). It won't pass on the go to any ice production!
So in total for now I did 5 replacements for now!
Let's tally the costs:
32.94 ice thickness thermostat
33.98 ice quantity thermostat
28.54 Whirlpool K20 K40 Drain Tube 3 Way
23.98 k20 PARTS - PHILIPS WHIRLPOOL ICE MACHINE WATER SPRAY BAR
21.45 K 20 Drain Hose: Whirlpool +
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
140.89 GBP = 177.369 EUR
On top of the 446,25 euros spend on the machine with shipping.
Attachment 9177Attachment 9178Attachment 9179
Hooray!
Bridging the Ice Quantity Thermostat worked for me. Check the pictures attached.
I have another question about the vents.
Do these vents on each side of the k20 have to be mounted facing down or facing up? I can't think right now.
I think hot air goes up so I guess up? I will need to correct them if it needs to be facing up!
A google in 2 seconds answered my question:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Should_hom...air_up_or_down
Facing up both sides!
Vents are facing up now!
Does anyone know the size of those screws used in this k20 ice maker?
I might start to replace most of the screws! That gone rusty or bad as a next project.
I didnt know all of this,
So basicly the ice thickness thermostat is on and waits untill it reaches -8° C to -15° C to turn off.
Then basicly the step of filling water comes in and losing up the slab of ice comes in.
Which means the solenoid opens up for the water to come in and the hot gas coil does it's heating to loosen the ice slap up.
When this evaporator reaches +2° C, then this triggers the Thickness Thermostat on. Therefore shutting off the solenoid off which stops the water as well.
The fresh water also flushes out impure water. And get open solenoid means a fresh batch of pure and impure water comes in to make the mix less impure. Because this water was flushed through the drain pipe for that moment the solenoids is on.
Which also closes the hot gas coil.
Then the cycle of making ice comes back in motion.
You can make a flowchart of this. But yeah I get the idea.
How bad is a Icematic?
I got a problem with white ice(unclear ice blocks)! Which means ice forms impurely(white colored). I know that only pure water poured over the evaporator forms you the nice clear ice blocks. And this happens at 0° C and it will only happen to water without any minerals(pure water). As the process repeats because of the pump that pumps the water through the evaporator, layer for layer. It means also that a tank full of water with a lot of minerals is left when the ice slab is done. But this clears up because a new batch of water is introduced to the mix in the tank, which also make the full tank overflow the excess. Making it a fresher batch of water each cycle of ice making.
When you have spot on the evaporator that is super cold under 0° C. Let's say -5° C, mineral full type of water flowing on this spot will form the white ice spot. This is because impure water needs a colder temperature form ice.
This spot is on the right side of the evaporator where the compressor pipe (cold air from the compressor)is attached to the evaporator which is below the evaporator. I guess that spot is too cold below 0°C at least to let mineral full water have the chance to form.
So as a result I get a slab of clear ice and on that spot I always get spot with white colored ice.
Do you have advice for this? It is really not a big deal as for 5% of the ice cubes coming out will be white instead of see through clear ice.
And as for the limescale depurator. As I said I have been filtering my water since I cleaned it with the Everpure set.
The item I ordered is being shipped from the UK to my country tomorrow. So soon it will be back to normal.
Attachment 9210
I ordered a ice quantity thermostat with 2 screws, instead of the one ring to attach it. It's oke because all of those icemaker panels on the back have holes for these thermostats.
My question is now what size are those screws? I need to run to the hardware store and get me some screws that look like it.
And also another question is where do you run the capillar on that ice quantity thermostat?
Like in the picture of more on the left side of the box? and then over the box over the ice cutter grid and then down?
Let me know the propper way to install it. Not that it much matters. But i wanted to know.
Attachment 9212Attachment 9213
I ran into another wall.
The ice thickness thermostat I installed, the capillar pipe end attached under the evaporator. That seemed lose after I stuck my hand under there and felt it was moving. Meaning the gas in the capillar will never properly get cold enough to tell the ice thickness thermostat to stop it. Like nike123 at around -8° C to -15° C. I felt the capillar on the ice thickness thermostat after having it run for few hrs. Nothing it felt warm not cold at all.
So tomorrow I will tighten the screw nut nail(hexagon) a little bit that sandwiches the capillar pipe of the ice thickness thermostat.
I don't have the good size wrench for this screw nut nail.
It seems like I have a small size 8 mm wrench at home and I tried it and it felt a bit lose.
Maybe it is 7 mm or 6 mm. But not sure. Can someone verify this for me?
Frustrating that still that installation of the ice thickness thermostat went bad. I had to tighten it harder in order for the capillar to feel the coldness of the evaporator.
Any tips are welcome. I will run out to the hardware store to get me a 6 or 7 mm wrench.
It was a 7 mm nut. I tighten it a little bit more then it was.
The ice bin thermostat supposed to be on it's way. I ordered it a few days ago.
I also recorded a video under the evaporator after an hour or two with the machine making ice.
It looks like it is struggling to make ice. The water is cold. The compressor seems to do it's job.
I will post a video of it tomorrow. I think the capillar is more then making contact so when it reaches -8C to -15C it will energise the icethickness thermostat and then energise the hot gas valve.
Then to release the ice slab.
But i just bridge the ice bin thermostat for now to test the machine.
My judgement is that compared to where I bought it. In Holland, here is pretty tropical weather.
In Holland it made the ice with no problem but then again the room temperature is also lower.
Here it is 25-30 C all day. To me after 2 hrs you at least have had one cycle. Which in the video I am going to post tomorrow you will see it is struggling to make the ice.
Can it be the plate needs cleaning?
Also in the video you will see the nut that attaches the plate to clam the capillar together is not iced.
All but that. I think the gas is getting warm by the hot air coming out of the vents. I have it in a small room and also close to a wall. Not much clearance.
maybe 10 cm clearance for hot air to go up. And as I have the cover off the hot air is brushing by the capillar of the ice thickness thermostat. Which in return makes that plate with the 7 mm nut not get frozen as the evaporator.
Not sure. I might have to or clean the evaporator or have to leave the machine breathe with more clearance.
I'll post the video of my ice making result right here tomorrow.
It the r134a gas charge not doing it's job enough? For me I have seen it work harder. For real.
Or I should test the machine when the new bin thermostat comes in.
Anyone got a suggestion in the meantime?
Here are the videos guys:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef9JsZOo2UU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXLB_HfqlN4
it should cool the water within 5 minutes and produce ice after 45 minutes, then the slab should be 8-10mm thick then slowly turn up the ice thickness stat till it clicks for defrost,make sure the slab clears the flap and lands on the cutter grid- make sure the condenser coil is clean,on the face and within the coil- best thing is compressed air to blast the crap away from inside-a paint brush will only clean the face of the coil
hey install monkey you are still following my thread.
Well I got a next problem. The ice thickness stat never gets to click and stop the cycle.
Maybe it is too hot around the icemaker.
The ice bin thermostat missing and bridge shouldnt affect the ice thickness stat's job?
Well I got no compressed air around i need to buy it.
I can tell you right now already that the condenser coil is full of crap!
What do you suggest me to look for in the hardware store? a can of compressed air(those u clean the keyboard with?
By the way I tighten the nut that clams up the capillar under the evaporator already so it can "feel" the coldness when the ice gets super thick.
Is there anything else I should check? Maybe my piece of plastic around the capillar is too tight, then I should take it off(but if off then with small scissors).
The plastic around the ice bin thermostat is way bigger(diameter) then the one I used on the ice thickness thermostat.
any sleeve over the evap stat will help as long as its just the bare capillary tube as its secured to the evap via the lil rectangular clamp- it may just be under performing with the dirty condenser- and yes get a can of the compressed air for keyboards etc-stick the straw in the end and spray the condenser coil on the accessible side, have the machine running when you do this as it will stop the dust from settling again nearby- make sure the misses doesnt catch you doing this as it can get messy and women dont like mess- also when its cleaned run it with the lid sat on top as it keeps the evap area cooler,see how that goes
Ok this time I took out the side panel of the coil side.
You know what else? A small fridge is under the icemaker. And I took out the 4 legs of the icemaker so it does not have any clearance from below.
The coil is very rusty and old.
I put the lid on top of it and gave it water. Hopefully it will run better now isolated from the hot air in the room.
i will post the results later on in a video.
- Right now I am 20 min in. The bin area feels cold. When you use it with the hood off and the door open it takes a while i guess to form the ice? Too much heat coming inside.
Attachment 9221
9:43
-
11:39(made the video at that time)
In this interval with the hood closed and the side panel off.
The ice maker made a nice slab of thick ice when I uncovered the hood.
The only thing it needed to do is to change cycle.
Maybe the capillar is shot! One thing is for sure the capillar on the ice thickness thermostat was not cold enough to trigger the stop of the cycle.
Or the other ice quantity thermostat(which is ordered and on it's way) has to be in place and 100 % instead of being bridged all the time. i have put a cable to bridge it so it can start.
I hope it is not the capillar of the ice thickness thermostat. It was a pain to remove or to install.
I will upload the video showing the cycle tomorrow.
Here below is the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYe0mEUuO2o
Maybe I just need wait for the ice bin thermostat to arrive and install it and then I can try to retest.
I do remember another thing on the ice thickness thermostat.
There was isolation piece. Does this piece have to be under the capillar like this:
evaporator
capillar
isolator piece
Because I suspect I got it like this:
evaporator
isolator piece
capillar
This way the capillar won't be cooled enough to trigger the end of the cycle.
If this is the problem then I will need to go and unscrew it and correct the order.
Look at this test run:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...JsZOo2UU#t=46s
Do you see the whole area not getting frozen.
Attachment 9227Attachment 9228Attachment 9229Attachment 9230
I opened the plate to recheck today the piece of plastic or isolation is under the capillar pipes. I see the traces of it from the old one.
I reattached it.
One thing I noticed is that the screw on the new ice thickness thermostat is inside. Is it like this?
The other one the old one somehow I put it back outside. But that have a broken capillar already to begin with.
Let me know.