Did you hook up a gauge to the discharge line access?
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Did you hook up a gauge to the discharge line access?
ok tell me exactly what temps you want to know and where also keep in mind the temps change by time times if day. i use u mulitimeter with a temp probe. i also found the outside orfice to be in correctly and free (its a .55)
should the refrigerant passing through the orfice make a constant hissing sound or would it sound erratic?
Evap air in temp
Evap air out temp
Low side pressure
Suction line temp at outdoor unit
Cond air in temp
Cond air out temp
High side pressure
Liquid line temp at outdoor unit
Discharge line pressure would also be helpful here.
What I am looking for is a snapshot of how the system is performing, so all of the measurements should be taken within a reasonably short period of time.
High temp liquid exits the metering device and then flashes off to reduce its temp to saturation. The temp in between can be anywhere in between. The correct temp at this point is "whatever it needs to be". So... measuring the flash temp tells you absolutely nothing useful.
ok the stat says 76 room temp
evap-air in 76
air out 65
condensor- air in 79
air out 88
suction line temp 72
liquid line 89
low side pressure= 66 psi
high side pressure=170 psi
the low side pressure reading was taken from the direct low tap at the compressor(wich is the same pressure as the shutoff taps)
i hope these measurments are the ones you need and thanks for all your help
Was the high side pressure taken at the direct high side tap at the compressor? I'm wondering if it is the same pressure as the high side shutoff tap.
these readings were taken at 11 pm which is why the low side pressure is less than 70 psi, the day it reaches 70, which is what i charged it to.
there is no other high side tap
there is no other tap in the high side
Ok... then we have no choice but to trust the high side pressure measurement at the shutoff tap.
hi
is the unit is enough for the area coverd more detail pls
size of both orifices &u fitted with o ring&right direction
did condensing unit match air handling
more detail pls
suction line= 56f
liquid line=93f
low side=85psi
high side=200psi
condensor air in=82f
condensor air out=94
evap air in=77f
evap air out=59f
its a 3 ton goodman heat pump with matching air handler (both brand new).
its in a 900sq ft mobile home (with a lot if insulation).
the indoor orfice is a .82 and the outdoor orfice is a .55
both are in correctly and workin correctly
The .082 orifice is too large and is overloading the system. You need to switch to the .078 and then take a new set of readings.
i know the orfice is too large but when i put the .78 in, the vent temp rose 8f
We need to get everything in balance. And at this point the orifice is too large.
ok ill put it back in but how will i get the temp down
how cold can i make it get?
am i expecting too much from this unit? because i really expected to see temps in the 40's.
it would seem that my understanding of how the system works is wrong, so what directly determinds how cold the coil gets?
Planning on turning your mobile home into a refrigerator?
Once we get the system in balance the next step will be to reduce the blower speed.
well kinda, i just want it to cycle during the day instead of running all the time. i keep the stat set on 70f, during the day it get up to about 82 of 83. when night falls, it takes it until 2am to bring it back down to 70.
i would have said that it was an insulation problem, but i rebuilt the house last year and completely packed every wall with styrofoam and fiberglass insulation then sealed the outside with thermoply before putting the siding back on. also if it were an insulation problem, i would figure it would recover fast at night or during the rain but it dont. and im trying to reduce my light bill from $400.
i couldnt agree more. ive never had this much trouble. ive always just charged a system to 72psi on the low side and it worked but like i said i havent done a whole lot of it.
BTW, right now you have 6F superheat, which means the system is overcharged. I clearly remember saying charge it to 15F superheat.
well maybe before this is all said and done, ill know the correct way. its sure been a learning experiance.
You might want to read through this thread:
http://www.refrigeration-engineer.co...ad.php?t=19701
hi
ur orifice size should be 065 indoor&o70 outside
ok i put the .78 back in and reset it and set the evap blower to low(from medium)
suction line=62f
liquid line=88f
lowside=80psi
highside=190psi
condensor in=79f
condensor out=89f
evap in=76f
evap out=60f
the .78 came with the air handler and the .58 was factory installed in the condensor. from all the experiments ive tried, when i install a smaller orifice, the vent temp rises. my only explination is that when i install a smaller orifice, it restricts the refrigerant flow too much and cant keep up with the coil. but i could be wrong.
With suction pressure that high the discharge pressure should be much higher. I'm thinking you may have an inefficient compressor.
Close the suction line shutoff valve and see if the compressor will pump down into a vacuum.
what would cause the compressor to be inefficient? and what would cause two of them to be? like i said before, this is the second system and both of them act the exact same way. i have examined both refrigerant lines inside and out and both are fine and restriction free.
um not very well. it pulled it to a 8inhg vacuum. is that enough? or could it be the reversing valve leaking? i have questioned the reversing valve all along but i dont know how to check it.
it doesnt seem to have much efficientcy in heat mode either but that could be a compressor too, right?
I found a piston kit chart. Let's see if we can find the official right size:
http://site.famousparts.com/goodman/PDF/PKC-00U.pdf
the condensor is a model # gsh130361bb
the air handler is a model#
adpf304216ba
i couldnt find the exact app for this unit in the charts.