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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Yeah, mate if I'm reading you correctly (??), I have found some. I can see where the laminations that form the core of the electro-magnets, that face the rotor surface are missing a bit of their "coating". Looks as if the rotor has just scrapped the surface, but I don't see any marks on the rotor surface.
Hey Frank, would this be consistent with bearing wear? Could it also be due to blower bearing end wear? With these two in mind, maybe a combination of both(?)...enlighten me please.
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OK, bearings are now installed. Photos will show what I used. Unfortunately, the 10mm deep socket was not viable. Instead I used the expansion sleeve that is used on a "hold fast" bolt. It is 10mm and I put some cable ties around the outside so it did not deform when clamp applied...that was for the front bearing.
Rear bearing, used a washer, hole diameter just over 8mm (to distribute the load), placed a 9mm socket on top of washer, which is sitting over bearing inner race and gentle tap with hammer.
Haha, make sure c-clips are on shaft first, applied wee bit of silicone lube on mtr shaft, then install bearings + they must sit flush with c-clip. Motor assembly next post...
I did weight the old bearings, came in at 12grams. New bearings, also = 12grams. And I could not see any bearing lube/grease inside mtr housing, so assuming the old bearings did not de-lube.
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Ok chaps, here we are, re-assembling the motor. First off, I will need to rescind two bits of info I discussed in my prior posts; 1) way back I noted that the fan motor was a squirrel cage (inductance) motor...this is not the case. Because as I continued dis-assembling this mtr, I did note to be wary of the strong magnetic field of the rotor. I was then aware that due to this, we have a (permanent magnet) brushless DC mtr (it still works via inductance) as the stator (electro magnets) are DC pulsed, influencing the magnetic field of the rotor ---> squirrel cage uses AC and induces rotor and stator.
And as with the squirrel these DC mtr's are also pretty electrically robust, can handle stall conditions reasonably well-until protection sense circuit kicks in.
2) more recent post, I discussed that the heat-sink compound (white, on top of mtr drive IC) had dried up and was not doing the job. I started to remove this compound and noted that it was rubberised, normal h/sink compound goes flaky/crumbly. So, this may be a more specific compound to "form" around components/heat-sinks and still transfer heat. Therefore I have not removed it but I have added some more h/sink paste...this will assist in a more efficient transfer of heat to the mtr cap. Not really necessary but while I'm in there, might as well. If it dries up the original h/sink compound will still do the job.
I used my normal vacuum cleaner with small nozzle to clean rotor and inside mtr housing (stator poles) to remove any rubbish. Then sprayed rotor with small bit of silicone and wiped around rotor with clean cloth. Because rotor to stator clearance is extremely small, don't want any crap in that gap.
Photos added showing assembly, #01 h/sink compound used + plastic shield that fits just under mtr cap. #02 shows scuff marks on stator poles must be from rotor but no visible marls on rotor. Slop due to mtr bearings and blower end bearing probably causing this, as rotor to stator clearance very tight. #03 Rotor in without PCB. #04 PCB in and I re-did the plastic rivets, melting used cable tie to the x2 white points (black dot marks)---maybe not really necessary as x3 solder points should secure it, but easily done. #05 PCB re-soldered, socket used to make sure brd is firmly located in its position. #06 shows mtr cap and plastic shield + front bearing compression washer. #07 shield in place, it is specific in how it fits. #08 shows h/sink compound (added to IC)+ silicone paste, used (v/small drop) this to hold compression washer in place while mtr cap put on, s/glue not used at this point. #09 used a 150mm gear puller to make sure cap goes on evenly, socket (sized to just fit rear bearing protrusion) at rear of mtr to centralise puller. #10 tapped (gentle hammer) on mtr cap to secure it then used puller to pull it onto mtr housing. #11 shows what I will use to keep mtr cap attached to housing. I will secure a few points around the mtr housing circumference, clean these areas with alcohol, scuff up with emery paper and use the s/glue to (hopefully) secure mtr cap.
NOTE: the green (paper) shim indicates that there is a slight gap present between cap and housing. I was not aware of this and cranked up the puller to remove this---yeah, not good, then realised gap was normal (I hope?). Puller is tight enough to secure cap, too tight and the bearings will bind. Can check, by spinning mtr shaft, should be smooth with no mechanical noises. I chose to glue on the outside of motor (to secure cap) so as to not introduce contaminants to the mtr internals, even though s/glue is a hi temp variety. At the moment cap is still secured by puller and I'm about to hit it with the glue---I'm thinking 4-6 spots around circumference should hold it (haha??), have to see how it goes once glued and puller removed. There are 11 photos so they will be spread over x3 posts. Next post will supply a link to a good info resource for these and other motors.
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Mtr-assem, continued.
I also hope it is ok to supply this link? And a big thanks to the supplier of this info - Dennis, it seems. It discusses succinctly (because I'm a waffler) this style of motor + others used in Air Con areas. Gives the function of and wiring on connectors. If you are safe/have knowledge with AC mains supply, you could even make a tester, very easily. This will help in evaluating the status of the motor drive circuit and mtr itself. As feedback comes from the mtr and operation can be displayed via the tester (if ya make one, that is) ie: LED to indicate f/back pulses etc.
https://www.whatwoulddennisdo.com/dc-motors.html
Just make sure everything (different voltage sources etc) are tied to the required common ground, which is discussed in this write up.
Anyway, Mtr-assem photos continued....
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Mtr-assem continued, last photo #11.
I will now attend to securing the motor cap with the super glue adhesive discussed. And hopefully mtr can the be install onto the drain pan. Will be back to advise if successful and hopefully have it installed on the d/pan...
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The fan/blower mtr is now completed, s/glued mtr cap at 6 points on outside of mtr cap. Spins freely with no binding or mechanical noise, so should be a goer. Photo shows mtr with front and rear rubber mounting bushings attached + blower scroll end bearing. One with white dot = new, other = original (old one). Next step is to mount mtr + blower scroll and blower scroll end bearing into drain pan.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
time for a coffee... or a tinnee...
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Indeedy Brian_UK, spot on mate. Just back from a swim and have a coffee in hand as I type. A VB will be happening when all completed...might get to installing into the drain pan this evening...? Thanks for your support mate...always appreciated. I have also enjoyed documenting the process/progress....
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
As a sideline you could take up technical authorship, when you have a spare minute or two of course.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
I'm impressed with the motor repair.
I would have just put in a replacement
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Motor now installed in drain pan.....
Thank you Frank, and yes sir, I agree 100%, ideally a new motor would be the way to go.
However, for a DIY'er this is an alternative, total material cost = $14 for bearings. Silicone lubricants I had already, if you needed to buy = $20 and re-usable for other stuff.
If you have some appropriate tools, AND were not held up by how the drain pipe attaches, time to do, approx 3+ hrs, maybe. I have (had-haha) a decent "workshop", in my garage attached to the house , with benches, vices, drill press + other helpful goodies etc. But unbeknown to me a hoard of flipping termites found my work benches delicious and devoured them. Leaving them looking untouched on the outside but all hollowed out, so I could not use anything attached to these benches; haha went to tighten the vice and it just peeled up and dropped off. Therefore, I had to improvise and working out an improvised strategy consumed most of the time.
The scuffing to the stator (as per photo previous) should cause no issue in mtr operation.
With the blower attached and mtr secured in the d/pan bracket it spins great. In photo#01 the swing stepper mtr (in-between) green and red steppers (at bottom) needs to be removed completely with the white securing bracket to remove blower mtr shroud when dismantling. In photo #02 the fan to shaft locking screw is visible, this needs to be made secure with a locking compound, haha, your partners nail varnish will do just fine. Also can use her lippie to lube nylon gears and mascara for marking things....no, don't even try it, haha. Photo #03 shows blower end bearing fitted-it just slides into a locator bracket, easy.
All good so far. Next is to fit completed drain pan. In the interim time I'm going to straighten out some evaporator fins, I did not bend them, found them that way when covers came off + vacuum out any dust in the evaporator area + try and pack some foam into the hole in my wall that the installer left bare. Then will re-fit d/pan + re-assemble circuit brd, fit and check electrics. I'll leave the covers off when I test operation as my confidence of complete success is not there. And the main cover is a PITA to remove.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
I would suggest that you finish off the wiring and test run it without the drain pan in place. Could save a load of grief if you come across any issues and have to remove the motor again. Running it for 5 - 10 minutes without the drain pan will not cause any damage
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
That's a good idea Frank, thank you. I will do this...I'll support the d/pan (without connecting it up to evap) with some cord so I don't put wiring under stress and fire it up. Good call mate TA..
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OK, so I tired to implement your good idea Frank. Unfortunately the mains power input terminates at an electrical terminal block on the d/pan. D/pan assembly also houses the e'control board, which also connects up to sensors (thermo etc) attached to evap. So to test the mtr without fully mounting the d/pan means extending pwr wiring and then sensors on evap cannot be attached to control brd due to d/pan now being at at distance that does not allow these sensors to be terminated on control brd. Therefore d/pan has to be fully mounted to the air con system....dang it!!
Tried last night with a helper to mount the d/pan. And again I'm caught with not being able to attach the d/hose to the pan spout, limited space to get in there and push it on. As d/pan has to be mounted first and then hose attached.
Again the (only?) option at this point is to remove the hose (connecting to pvc tubing) on the opposite side of the wall and feed enough of it through the hole to allow me to connect it to the pan. Then fit/mount the d/pan completely up to the evap as required, pushing the hose back through to the other side of the wall at the same time and re-connect to the pvc. Problem is, that installer has taped (securely) the d/hose to the refrigerant pipe in the wall cavity, difficult (if not impossible) to get to/remove this taped area, to allow free movement of d/hose.
Any ideas from others most welcome as this is becoming an absolute PITFA...
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Arriba!! - righty'o....photos showing finding and cutting that f00k'n drain hose set-up, on the opposite side of the wall from where it exits to mate up with the drain pan. Previously the hose was too short to successfully get it onto the pan. Cutting where it mates up to the pvc drain to the outside now gives some extra length inside to (hopefully) attach to the pan, pic#04.
Pvc was cut with plumbing pipe cutter(pic#03) that I had at home, used previously to do some plumbing mods. I'm sure, no probs using a small saw also. When d/pan fitted, hose will be fed back through the wall and re-joined, with what/how --- will work it out when I get there.
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OK, have been procrastinating a bit. So, have just now re-fitted the d/pan onto the evaporator. I had a helper, which I felt was necessary, made it reasonably easy-ish to do. D/pan hose easy to fit with that extra length, pushes on snuggly. Had to wiggle and juggle some-what to get the pan in place. Then as it slides up towards the evap had to bend the plastic tabs at the bottom of the pan up and over the two brackets that the pan rests on. these brackets are part of the wall bracket that secures all onto the wall.
The d/pan hose needed to be gently pulled back through the wall as the d/pan was positioned under the evap and then pushed up to engage the two brackets. I found using some silicone spray was of great assistance to allow things to slide and move.
At either end of the d/pan there are two screws that now need to fitted to secure the pan to the evaporator. At this point the pan is just sitting there, held by the two bracket locators...all good.
I'll be back once I fit the screws, pan to evap. Also need to fit the controller board and plug in motor and sensors +hook up mains pwr. These connector plugs are sized such that they will only fit the appropriate receiving receptacle on the cct brd, so no issues at getting it wrong.
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Righty'o then, photos #01-->#04; sequentially shows: cavity to slide pcb into, pcb mounted, pcb with transducers/sensors connected to pcb receptacles + (ac) mains input terminal block, with x2 mains earth(s) terminated, terminal block fitted + (ac) mains input conductors terminated. Mains was pulled through the rear acceptance hole via cord. Difficult if you try to feed through from the rear.
As I can do stupid as good as anyone else, I checked (m/meter) that mains has no short to earth, ie: terminal block with mains fitted, check to air con earth. Check ac earth from air con earth(s) to established mains earth, in my locality ac earth resistance is <=0.5 ohms.
Covers will be left off, in case I have made a stuff up, I'll power it up tomorrow. As it is nearly 12pm, and if issues happen, I would sooner it be in daylight.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Hey thanks Brain_UK.....It's all powered up. I've turned on the air con and all is great. Nice and quiet, blower motor is performing well, on, all speeds. Hahahaha, however the x2 vertical louvers are not operational, the lower single large vert flap assembly works no probs. I have used a screw driver to place on this vertical louver stepper mtr and the other end of the s/driver to my ear. I can hear this s/mtr operating each time a command is generated via the remote. So, it appears that the vertical louver mtr is working but not engaging mechanically...muffed it, dang it!
Yeah, had a thought I may have an issue in this area when I disassembled the d/pan when cleaning it. Maybe I have not set-up the louver gearing/stepper mtr engagement correctly. Looks like I can get to this area without removing the pan. Haha, fix one and muff another, so back in I go. Will look into it this evening...at least the mtr and blower assembly do not have issues.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
You know what they say, "90% of the job is complete, the other 90% is snagging".
Check the louvre linkages to make sure that you're not 180deg out and the links can be simple slot and tang joints where the tang has snapped off.
At least you can look at the problem in the cool now. ;)
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Haha, a well deserved saying Brian. And thank you for your info sir, much appreciated. I will have a lookie later this eve. I need to bash out some laps at my aquatic centre first, when I get home I will give it a go with your info in mind. It's now winter down here mate, so I'm seeking some warmth...but yes, it heats and cools great..but something I have/or have not done is causing this issue, that's inexperience for you...learning on the run. Will update my progress....
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Back to it...easy to remove the vertical louvre/louver stepper mtr. One screw and the mtr pulls out and has a gear on the output shaft, this needs to come out also, as it is a key-way fit.
Mtr is driving, hold in fingers, can feel step of the rotor. However, reduction gearbox attached to mtr has an issue (crack in gear, stripped teeth etc?). And for some time now the louvres have had an issue, top and bottom sticking together....so stressed for some time. Why it has let go now? Louvres were positioned correctly (marked them) and when I started it up today there was no movement at all from louvres....so seemed to be knackered prior to re-fit? Maybe when I cleaned pan, handling applied some force to louvre blades back into the already stressed gear...
A new one no probs ($25+14day wait) and might be the best way.....Buuuut (fixed one-why not another), there are x4 tabs that hold the g/box cover and drive bushing on. I tried to bend these tabs up, thick tabs, starts to distort motor casing when attempted. I'll reduce the thickness (file) of these tabs to allow bending up or remove the tabs completely and solder cover back on, this metal should accept solder.
Cracked nylon gears can be fixed (reasonably easy) and are normally reliable, when done correct. Hmmm, stripped teeth, nah; anyway once inside we'll see what's up and take it from there. If it's doable, I'll give it a crack - don't have to wait the 14 days post, no go --->order a newie...
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Without the louvres in place, can you see the motor spindle turn?
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
If you are referring to the louvre mtr Frank, no the drive spindle does not turn but I can feel the stepper mtr cogging/stepping...so mtr=ok, gearbox=problem, I'm thinking output shaft is has come loose from final drive gear, can fix + be reliable. If asking about blower mtr, yeah working a treat, no probs.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Hell of a thread Tiger, keep going!
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Yes, sorry it was not clear
I was talking about the louver motor
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No worries Frank, I hope I answered you enquiry... Photos show g/box with top cover off. I filed away the tabs holding it to the g/box housing. Trying to bend up the x4 cover holding tabs distorts the g/box housing, so easier to file off these tabs. We can glue or solder this cover back on.
As per photos, all the gears look in good condition, no cracks or munched teeth. The final drive gear with drive shaft is shown. And as I posted previously, my thoughts were that this drive shaft has become loose within the gear (and that seems to be the case), ie: the drive shaft, under load, rotates independent of the gear it should be affixed to...d/shaft should be solidly attached to this final drive gear. But grasping this gear firmly and applying a turning force to the d/shaft causes the d/shaft to turn and the gear remains stationary...so that is our problem.
The fix = clean big time (detergent/alcohol etc) to remove grease etc. Push the d/shaft out of the gear, abrade the area that will be bonding to the location hole in the gear and use some epoxy (2 part) glue. Will also apply glue to the external parts of the d/shaft that contact the surface of the gear. Let glue cure well, then reassemble. To test = installing into air con, leave loose so I can grasp the output d/shaft (pliers) and run louvre cycle and (nearly) stall the stepper mtr a few times. If it can handle that, should be good to go... Photos will be in this post and a following one
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OK, the last photo...shows tools that were used...pretty easy to do. Also final drive gear with drive shaft is shown sitting on the g/box cover. I was hoping to show the internals of the stepper mtr because they are an interesting design, alas it's sealed up. I have used stepper mtr's in many circuit designs, haha, but have never split apart small ones such as this. However, I'm confident the repair will be successful... Oh, and thank you, al, for your interest.
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All right then --- please disregard what I noted in POST #67, I GOT IT WRONG. Had a bit more of a think last night concerning the final drive gear and associated drive shaft.
The reason why I assumed the d/shaft had come loose within the drive gear, is that, I can grip this gear and applying some turning force (via pliers) to the shaft it turns independent of the final drive gear.
This final d/gear and d/shaft are meant to be this way, so no problem (I failed to examine other/this possibilities) with this system. REASON BEING, this is a clutch. As the louvres move up and down, they need to stop at their maximum deflection, going down and going up. The way this is sensed, is, by the louvers coming to the end of their travel and applying load to the mtr when they do so, thus, current draw by the stepper mtr increases and the protection cct monitors this and sees current increase above the normal running current. Due to this, supply to the mtr is terminated and stops the louvre travel at its end stops (down and up max travel).
And the d/shaft is located in the final gear drive with a clutch mechanism. When the end stop is reached this clutch engages applying extra loading but not completely stalling the d/shaft, therefore current increase is sensed and mtr power terminated. The clutch arrangement stops damage to the g/box and mtr by using a "soft stop" arrangement. That's why I could apply force to the d/shaft and turn it independent of the d/gear.
Ok so I re-inspected the gears under some high magnification and found that the second d/gear had a few teeth with some distortion on the tooth faces and the gear valleys had closed up a wee bit.
Solution is to try and "re-profile" these areas. Use a sharp bladed cutter, such as in photo (scalpel is best but can't find mine). Scrap/shave away very small bits of nylon that look out of place on the gear face and then open up the valleys buy cutting/scraping further down into the V. Photos show how to go about it. This technique can be applied to any nylon/plastic gear teeth. It is mainly the distortion/bunching up of nylon at the bottom of the V that causes gear binding, gear face correction should occur as the teeth interface with another gear. CLEAN out between the teeth with a tooth brush/running water.
Louvre mtr now works great. I have reassembled and applied cable ties to keep g/box cover in place. Before reassembling, silicone paste (as silicone is nylon/plastic safe) was used to lube all gears and metal d/shaft + bushing. I opted to use a Tarzans grip (shock proof) super glue to secure the cover at the points I filed off + the area where the bracket screw holes are. This should be ok + can potentially remove if need be, will solder if this is insufficient. This glue has full cure @ 24hrs, but should be ok later on this eve, so, will refit and test later tonight....
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Okay, so nearly finished.
What is your next project? We can't have you sitting around idly drinking beer and watching TV now can we?
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Yes indeed Brian, nearly finished, just need to fit the covers.
I have had the AC running at 25 deg C with the "swing" (vertical louvres) engaged continuously since Friday evening. Unit is running beautifully, blower mtr, responsive and quiet and the little vert louvre mtr that I did some surgery on is operating like a charm, no noise and responding to its end stops/changing direction as it should do. Hahaha, so I'm pretty chuffed as well....as it has just started to get a bit chilly down this way.
Haha, Brian, I try not to have too much happening but I just love machines, whether they be electric, electronic, mechanical, pneumatic or anything else. I give everything a go, gets your brain working, saves $'s and alleviates wastage, machines like to live on (so they tell me).
I'm pretty good at the electronics/electrical area (E/Eng), other areas I learn about by putting thinking hat on and from others, in person, or from areas, such as your fine forum board and from reading about other knowledgeable peoples information/experience. So I thank you: Brian, Rob White, Frank, Tayters and al for personally engaging with me and allowing me to post this repair on your forum board. And thank you to the other members for showing an interest for what I've been up to.
Hahaha, it all started with that flipp'n drain hose.... I rarely join forum boards and have NEVER documented my progress for others. This board has allowed me to do so, even though that was not the plan. However, I always take photos when doing a project (keeps conceptual ambiguity in check) and as I was doing this for my AC and submitting this to your board for response to my questions, I thought I'd keep it going. And, I think it fair and just to add commentary to complement the process and photos to keep others informed as to what is taking place, instead of leaving them guessing...what's this geeza up to/what took place there etc.
So, Brian, I really do like to sit around and do bugger all mate, if I can - but that fleshy processor/control board in my head keeps tempting me to get in there and make/fix things.
Now, I'm onto repairing a verge "chuck-out" 55" Samsung LED flat screen tv. It has ghost/double/lines on screen, image issues. Pretty easy fix. Photo #3 is the T-con (timing and control) brd and the x2 (white/black) clamp connectors at the bottom of the brd supply, via x2 ribbon cable, image signalling to the screen. Clean the "finger" contacts on these connectors with alcohol (cotton swab)+ clean ribbon cable interface contacts. Wait until alcohol evaporates, re-insert r/cables into connectors push down clamps to secure x2 ribbon cable, all should be good.
This is a common issue on flat screens, oxide layer (over time) forms on contacts, increases resistance across this contact area. Then we have a volt drop, Mr Ohm steps up, V=IR, across these connectors, subsequently supplying the screen with a signal it cannot process correctly = bad tv night.
I have a lot of experience in circuit design/analysis/testing + repairing to component level (including surface mount) of many varied e'systems. And I would like to stay around on your forum board, Brian and Frank. I (hopefully?) may be able to assist other members with electronic issues. Once you isolate the offender, it's pretty straight forward (even for novices/limited ability in e'tronics) to get it sorted. Failing Electrolytic capacitors (DC ccts) are the nemesis of all DC systems. These caps are about the only components in the electronics environment that have an actual life span (thousands of hours, cost and manufacturer dictate the good ones), all the rest pretty much indefinite (when kept within parameters). Bad caps, will influence all other componentry operation, leading to false diagnosis if you are not aware....
All righty then, I still need to fit the covers to my air con (have fitted filters for its trial run) and re-join drain hose I cut to give d/hose some length....so will be back with some snaps, when done.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
So glad to hear/read that your AC is behaving as it should do, so well done; service/repair proved, justified and resolved.
Projects like yours are always welcomed as we 1st worlders tend to forget that there are many others who do not have the benefit of spare part suppliers/ spare cash or technicians on hand to keep their equipment running. Many times we have had requests from areas such as the Pacific Rim and Middle/Far East asking about PCB component part repairs which we would not consider a worthwhile repair especially has we aren't privy to the electrical schematics of the OEMs. However there are many talented people out there who can/do and will perform these repairs at component level because that it what they have to do.
I have been amazed at some techs in places like Iraq who kept asking questions about AC faults while being shifted from town to town to get away from the war front. One day a picture of a blown motor capacitor and the next day a video of bombs going off in the next street. Nowhere near my kind of working day at all.
Your exercise demonstrates that these things are possible and therefore encourage others to press on, so thank you.
Sadly in this day and age of instant gratification via social media a lot of repairs are performed through the use of a smartphone and a certain amount of abuse, such is life.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
And a great big WELL DONE from me. There is nothing more rewarding when, having carried out a sometimes, 'first time' repair, you re-apply the power and - bingo, it works, sort of moment.
I'm sure that all of us in one way or another, what ever our trade or speciality, have had that wry smile while standing back and admiring our handywork, that we didn't think ourselves capable of.
I can confess to having researched Youtube for knowledge on some non-fridge related repairs that I have then carried out with success and without having to spend a fortune on by engaging a specialist. (last time was re-setting the warning lights on the van dashboard due to it failing the MOT because the Service and diesel exhaust valve lights were showing)
I must admit though that I'm no expert in electronic pcb repairs. I have a basic understanding and have built simple circuits from scratch, changed dry capacitors (daughters piano power pcb) and replaced soldered relays etc. but more involved repairs are way beyond my remit. Finding replacement parts and having the proper test kit are other reasons why I just change boards ;)
Anyway, I'm pleased that you have had success and that your A/C is now back up and working. Time for a tinnie now I expect.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Could we benefit from a right to repair law in all our countries, those shows on tv showing repairs / restoration be it of cars or family heirlooms are getting very popular! Well done again mate!
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
Hey, thanks chaps, I appreciate your response.
Brian, the irony sir, what you wrote, concerning (let's say) 3rd world countries and their access to the spares/technology we are privy to. This was exactly on my mind when typing out my post (#71), wanted to mention it but thought I'd waffled too much. Spot-on mate, there are dudes in these countries/localities that repair just about everything, some under horrendous circumstances, as you mentioned. They really have no option (+ curious minds need to know), and I'm absolutely astounded at what they achieve, with the little they have...
Haha, I read you loud and clear Frank. Yeah, mate youtube has some excellent content from very helpful, smart people...they have helped me many times as well, haha, but not on this one, dang it.
Yes, Frank, good idea to replace your p/supply caps, good onya...you could apply that skill to other e'repairs, no probs. I use a good British Company (est~1920?), so you will have them there , called Radio Spares. They have good quality/range/products/spares (price is higher than local shops), excellent online catalogue. And even here, they deliver (free) the next day, as normally it costs + 7-10 days wait time. The local e'shop is also a great place but may be limited. Keep in mind, any mass produced brds use mass produced components...local e'shop first.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
OK, all done. Thank you to all, I was committed to complete, however, my motivation was maxed, due to the interest, comments, manuals and advice that you fellas provided...much appreciated.
A/C, is set at 23deg/c (will be 8d/c ovr/night) , vertical louvres on continuous....all good. Covers come up well with a good clean, as well.
As per photos, joined the drain hose pvc (cut to extnd d/hose) with some very old (all I had) "clear" tubing (works well), electronics bay without cover, e/bay cover installed + bare complete unit, completed with cover + installed new purifying, deodorising filters.
In photo #3, this cct brd contains the power supply (Lo dc - cntrl cct +Hi dc for blower) and control (processor, transducer sense, stepper mtr drive, system protection ..blah, blah....). The blower mtr has its own control brd inside the mtr housing but takes instructions from the main processor, and also provides feedback from the motor: temperature, position, rotational speed etc.
So, it's goodnight from me and goodnight from him...Tiger(Ronnie)cat
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose
A gentle ripple of applause was heard from around the forum.
If anyone wants to award him some rep points it wouldn't be amiss.
Well done fella, here's to a warm winter for you.
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Re: Fujitsu ASTA24LCC domestic A/C removing drain hose