Quote:
The installation of a low pressure cut-out switch set to a positive pressure should prevent the system running at a negative pressure.
Hi Brian, thank you for your answer. Regarding the cut-out switch, I believe these are used in larger sytems, right? Because at home I have two A3 class refrigeration systems and I'm unable to locate this component. One is a R290 blast chiller with a LBP compressor, and another one is a freezer with R600A gas. I'm trying to make a DIY solution very similar to the R290 chiller that I already have, so LBP compressor, condenser, dryer, capillary tube and evaporator. I am not a professional but I'm reading a lot (and yet I recognize I still have much to learn) in order to do everything at high safety standards. Altought I believe the charge will be quite small, like 50-70 grams, I don't want to take any risks of endangering myself or my property. I am familiar with the procedures required to ensure that the circuit is leak free, that is nitrogen pressure test, vacuum check and so on... However, I would like to understand more about this negative pressure thing. With a LBP compressor you can achieve very low temperatures on the evaporator and very low pressure at the suction inlet. I'm not sure if they can be lower than atmosferic pressure, but they might be. Lets say the brazing is damaged over time, for example someone hits is or there is corrosion (not something that could happen in my case, but still...) what would happen? Air could get sucked in and contaminate the refrigeration gas, right? But I assume the compressor would stop working long before an explosive concentration of gas is formed inside, because it would have to suck roughly 20 times more air than there is propane and a circuit in that condition would never work. Am I correct?