NRS BeerMaster cellar cooler

Hi all, Anyone know where i could get some info on NRS Beer-master cellar cooler CONTROLS ?
I am trying to mend one for two lesbien ladies:p (i'm not kidding either...) running a pub in Telford
I saw it in November and found it with the compressor failed. (and controler fine!)
They had the brewery change the compressor for them - but still no cooling !
They called ME out again, i turn up and find a glorious new compressor fitted :cool: --But now their electronic controller in the blower has gone 'haywire' reading +36'C despite the cellar only being +9'C ??!!
I don't think it is the PTC probe failed as warming or cooling the probe gives the corresponding 'rise' or 'fall' of the display reading. The set point is 10'C
but cooling circuit still dead.
I wondered if these controlers had parameter settings in the same way a LAE or Eliwell one does ?
...Or weather i should just order a new controller :confused:

Can only get info from climate centre as they have have them made for them by searle..

Hi

A long time since I worked on these but there is a hidden button around the display to accsess the parameters.I remember changing a few probes so don,t rule it out.

Regards Bernard

Are you sure its not displaying Farnheight,the cellar should operate around 12 C.So at +9 its on the cold side.There is also a liquid line solid valve on the left hand side of blower.

Regards Bernard

[quote=madfriday;87495]Hi all, Anyone know where i could get some info on NRS Beer-master cellar cooler CONTROLS ?

Quote:

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I am trying to mend one for two lesbien ladies:p (i'm not kidding either...) running a pub in Telford


I saw it in November and found it with the compressor failed. (and controler fine!)
They had the brewery change the compressor for them - but still no cooling !
They called ME out again, i turn up and find a glorious new compressor fitted :cool: --But now their electronic controller in the blower has gone 'haywire' reading +36'C despite the cellar only being +9'C ??!!
I don't think it is the PTC probe failed as warming or cooling the probe gives the corresponding 'rise' or 'fall' of the display reading. The set point is 10'C
but cooling circuit still dead.
I wondered if these controlers had parameter settings in the same way a LAE or Eliwell one does ?
...Or weather i should just order a new controller :confused:

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I would of thought they would favour Frigid-aire
systems?
I assume it is a MK3 Controller (a rectangular facia with the long sides horizontal. MK 1&2 Were rectangular with the longest sides vertical.)
If it's of any use I have a set of beer master Controller instalation and maintenance instructions. Which I can copy and mail to you. But hopefully someone will have more relevant paperwork?
I would still check out the return air sensor further, prior to condeming the controller!
Cheers Grizzlyhttp://www.refrigeration-engineer.co...ons/icon14.gif
ADDENDUM sensor malfunction= should the return air sensor develop a fault the controller will display "OCT" for open circuit fault and "SCT" for a short circuit fault. ( therefore you may be correct about the sensor)
Changing the Temperature display units = Press the left button display will be in C , Press the right button the display will be in F.
ALSO CHECK that the control set point is set correctly= Set the desired room temperature by pressing and holding the centre of the display.
After 5 secs the Controller will enter setup mode. Indicated by 2 decimal points.
To raise press and hold the right button. To lower press and hold the left button.
To use the new setpoint Press and hold the centre of the display. Decimal points disappear, unit will control asd normal.
Comp anti short cycle timer ( May be the problem) = Compressor starting will be delayed for 5 mins when the controller is powered up. upon exit from setup mode and from the end of any cooling cycle.

Hi, thanks for the tips, i am aware of the solenoid & the hidden button in the control. I think it only gives setpoint tho.
I think safest thing to do with it is change the probe first...
I would look a right muppet if i changed the controller and it was only the probe :D aaargh!!
Odd tho, if it is the probe -when the display is reading 36deg and set to 10deg it should surely be calling for refrigeration ? - and it isn't !!!!
-another piece of the jigsaw, Sherlock...
I'm pretty sure no-one could have changed it to read deg F
I have enclosed a piccy of the beast.

:p Trying to get a piccy of the two ladies who run the place.......

Quote:

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Originally Posted by madfriday

Hi, thanks for the tips, i am aware of the solenoid & the hidden button in the control. I think it only gives setpoint tho.
I think safest thing to do with it is change the probe first...
I would look a right muppet if i changed the controller and it was only the probe :D aaargh!!
Odd tho, if it is the probe -when the display is reading 36deg and set to 10deg it should surely be calling for refrigeration ? - and it isn't !!!!
-another piece of the jigsaw, Sherlock...
I'm pretty sure no-one could have changed it to read deg F
I have enclosed a piccy of the beast.

:p Trying to get a piccy of the two ladies who run the place.......

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Madfriday
The secret button isn't it's just the way as you say to adjust the setpoint.
The one confusing thing is the controller is designed to control between 0c and 32c.
Therefore if it is in Centigrade it's trying to operate outside it's control parameters- Or not!
If it's reading correctly it's got to be in Farenhieght 32f to 90f.
As you say well worth another visit before condeming the controller.
Or if it's correct and in Farenheight. could it be permenently pumped down with a faulty solenoid valve? Just a thought!

Grizzlyhttp://www.refrigeration-engineer.co...ons/icon14.gif

I had always found the relay on the pcb to be a bit prone to failing.
Is the 'cooling' light on?
If so then check the relay.

Chillin:):)

Hi all, There is no cooling light on at the display, no matter what setpoint at.
Am going back out to site this afternoon with Grizzly's addendum notes - will check if anyone switched to farenhight....
Regards - Andy

If you continue to have problems with the controller,change it for a ID Chill unit from Thermofrost Cryo Limited they cost £23.00 each and are easy to fit and set up

Could we please have a copy of the controller hand book? As we are having similar problems
Cheers

Dont forget there is a delay on these controllers for about 5 to 8 minutes before the sol valve opens. When i got problems with these controlllers i just bypass it with a normal stat. ( prodigy stat ) simple to do. Fans constant. live on one side of the stat, other side of stat onto the sol valve. Problems with these coolers are.... Moter faults. Controller faults. Sol valves ( not lifting/not shutting) and exp/valve faults. Evap coils becoming blocked.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by madfriday

Hi all, Anyone know where i could get some info on NRS Beer-master cellar cooler CONTROLS ?
I am trying to mend one for two lesbien ladies:p (i'm not kidding either...) running a pub in Telford
I saw it in November and found it with the compressor failed. (and controler fine!)
They had the brewery change the compressor for them - but still no cooling !
They called ME out again, i turn up and find a glorious new compressor fitted :cool: --But now their electronic controller in the blower has gone 'haywire' reading +36'C despite the cellar only being +9'C ??!!
I don't think it is the PTC probe failed as warming or cooling the probe gives the corresponding 'rise' or 'fall' of the display reading. The set point is 10'C
but cooling circuit still dead.
I wondered if these controlers had parameter settings in the same way a LAE or Eliwell one does ?
...Or weather i should just order a new controller :confused:

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hi.mad friday.had the same problem last week.replace the probe,and you should be alright.a new panel is £200

just to add to this thread,
i have a bear master chiller giving me some slight grief. temp readingsare all fine. sometimes after reaching set point and going into a fan only/null mode , then temp rising and should then be demanding ,we'll say, full cool the compressor will not kick back in . it seems that the lower of the two pressure swiches is playing up. it the main feeds to the unit are killed for a period of time and then reset all is fine. onewould presume that placing the system in a dorment state is allowing the LP switch to go well out of range after pressures stabilize allowing thesystem to start from scratch...
any of you chaps come across this..