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cdsc
25-11-2006, 11:32 PM
Hi i am new to this forum.

My Whirlpool S20DRWW30-A/G side by side American style fridge freezer just packed in, two weeks after the warrenty ran out.

It is displaying the flashing -- for freezer temperature when you switch on the relay clicks and the compressor is running and getting hot but the freezer temperature is only droping 2 degs or so over 3 hours. Any ideas on what might be wrong I dont want to spend 180 on a new pcb if it's something else. Is there any way to by-pass or test the pcb ?

Any help much appreciated, anyone got a schematic/servicing manual.


chris

Toolman
26-11-2006, 12:07 AM
If compressor is running its trying to do the right thing , gas charge needs to be checked . Probably a sealed system with no access for gauges so you will need to crack open the system to hook gauges on , if your a fridgy you should know how to do this if your not get one who does . The flashing display may be from temp being high and will stop if the temp comes down . I dont fiddle with domestics but all systems behave the same way .

Electrocoolman
26-11-2006, 12:27 AM
Hi Chris and welcome.

I presume you have done a search on this site for 'Whirpool'.....there are several threads on Whirlpool American F/F.
Although I do not know this model, here are a few guidelines to check...
You say compressor is 'running and hot'....Is the compressor actually running? It might be hot because it is not starting. You say the Relay clicks...once or regularly? What are the pipes connected to the compressor doing? There are normally x3, but one ends in a sealed end. Of the remaining two, one should be cool (the larger one) and the other should be too hot to hold (the smaller one).
Feeling these will give you an indication of the system 'workload'. Is the compressor making any strange noises?

Are your fans running...there will be a fan in the freezer (feel for airflow), and (probably) one for the condenser (airflow also provides compressor cooling). Is the condenser covered in fluff?

You might have to go into the freezer and remove a panel at the back to examine the evaporator...this is the bit that gets cold....Is it iced up? Does it get cold at all.

A few things to check! Hope this helps.

If all checks Ok then as Toolman says its probably the refrigerant charge.

taz24
26-11-2006, 12:55 AM
You might have to go into the freezer and remove a panel at the back to examine the evaporator...this is the bit that gets cold....Is it iced up? Does it get cold at all.

.


Electrocoolman has said it all.
All I would add is definatley check the evap is free of ice.
Turn it off and leave it for a full 24 hours then turn it on and run on test.
Cheers taz.

cdsc
26-11-2006, 01:10 PM
Hi thanks for the help,

The top of the commpressor bowl is getting hot, main pipe to the freezer is cold to the touch not freezing though. No ice as it stood power off for a couple of weeks as i was away when it first packed in. Fan in the freezer compartment is not running plate at back cold to touch but not freeezing. Checked back pcb everything looks ok but will test the capacitors just in case.

chris

frank
26-11-2006, 07:51 PM
Not my cup of tea but I would guess it's on R134a and the capillary is blocked/waxed. It happened on my Armena a few years ago.

Search past threads on here for blocked capillary

Karl Hofmann
27-11-2006, 01:06 AM
I would expect that Whirlpool would have repaired your Fridge Freezer even though it is a couple of weeks out of warranty as an act of good faith. The only company who has not been helpfull even though their product was only a few days out side of their warranty was our friends LG. Needless to say their crap LCD flat panel TV was turfed in to the skip and I have not bought anything LG since.

Although we have no right to expect them to help outside of their warranty, most companies realise that to shaft their customers does not encourage brand loyalty

Electrocoolman
28-11-2006, 10:05 AM
Chris, Is the evap fan linked through a door switch...obviously you had the door open to check things....try operating any door switches to see if fan then runs, otherwise you need to trace circuit for fan.

cdsc
06-12-2006, 11:53 PM
Evap fan works fine, tried the capacitor replacement compressor runs, all fans run, first 6 ins of the cold evap piping gets iced up but rest stays warm. I am wondering if I have a refrigerant leak or if it just needs a re-charge.

Chris

Electrocoolman
07-12-2006, 12:00 AM
I am wondering if I have a refrigerant leak or if it just needs a re-charge.

Chris

I would think the answer to both these is Yes!

Look to see if there are any signs of oil at any of the pipe joints....feel with fingers.

Hope this helps. Adrian

jamcool
07-12-2006, 12:23 AM
If it needs a re-charge you have a leak,try and find as was suggested.The gas does not run out as some might think,have being asked that question more times than I can count.