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View Full Version : Diplomat APM6842 - not cold enough







chedz
14-11-2006, 05:14 PM
hi,

I'm just after a bit of advice please, to bin or attempt a fix.

I have a Diplomat - APM6842 fridge freezer, its part of a fitted kitchen behind a door. Its about 4.5 years old so should still work I recon.

Recently its stopped cooling the fridge, it remains at a steady 12 degrees, so lots of milk and food going off. Er'indoors isn't happy at all with me for not fixing it yet :mad:

Twiddling the thermostat seems to make no difference. The freezer is at -11 degrees.


From reading some of the other posts and my limited knowledge it looks like the thermostat or a loss of gas? Anyone got any bright ideas? :confused:

I had a look at the thermostat, it seems the metal wire dissappears into the side of the unit, so how on would one replace this? Is there some way of threading a new one through and connecting it at the other end??? :confused: (does the metal wirey thing connect at the other end somewhere inside the fridge?)

Also I contacted a spares company (speedyspares I think they were called), they told me a new stat would be nearly 60, blimey oh riley!!!! Is this a realistic price, sounds very steep to me.

Final question, is a Diplomat APM6842 the same as a Whirlpool APM6842??

Thanks in advance for any wise words. I'll owe you one! ;)

Chedz

chillin out
14-11-2006, 11:43 PM
Try defrosting the freezer section completely and then retesting setting the thermostat to it's middle setting.

Also make sure the doors close properly.

Chillin:) :)

chedz
15-11-2006, 10:27 AM
Hi,

we tried that, complete defrost and yes the door is shutting tight. Could it be the thermostat do you think?

Thanks again
chedz

Electrocoolman
15-11-2006, 08:24 PM
Hi Chedz,
Yes it appears that Diplomat is same as Whirlpool APM6842. Code number should be 8539755150070/1/2 i.e.ending 0, 1 or 2.

Correct thermostat code is Whirlpool 5031684765157
suggested retail 31.69 .
As the unit is built in to a fitted kitchen has it got enough ventilation and can it get rid of heat? You might have to pull unit out to check to see if compressor is running and then stopping due to overheating. Thermostat is often go/no go. You might want to test refrigeration circuit by bypassing thermostat so that compressor runs continuously.....fridge and freezer should then pull down if all OK with cooling side.
Unit runs on R600 isobutane.
Hope this helps.

chillin out
15-11-2006, 11:30 PM
You might want to test refrigeration circuit by bypassing thermostat so that compressor runs continuously.....fridge and freezer should then pull down if all OK with cooling side.
May I just add (for the info of other techs), this method works in every case I have tried..... apart from one.

A few years ago I was having a problem with a firdge/freezer. When I by-passed the stat everything worked OK, but when left with stat in place the fridge section cooled OK but the freezer hardly worked at all.

All pointed to stat being 'out of range' and cutting out far too soon. Tried other stat, same problem.

System was on R600, so fresh gas was put in. Problem remained. I eventually found the fault, inside the freezer section there was a connection for the fridge evap. This had a restiction in it, chopped out bad bit and reconnected, put fresh gas in and all worked well.

Moral of the story..... always be aware...LOL

Chillin:) :)

chedz
17-11-2006, 12:46 PM
Hi again, thanks for the further info, much appreciated. I'll have a go at bypassing the stat. I tried this once before on a fridge. I used an allen key tapped to a wooden spoon just to be safe. Luckily I did this as whatever I shorted out was live, made a massive flash and melted my allen key.

Could someone give me a tip on how to bypass the stat without killing myself please?

Thanks again
Chedz :)
chedxz

taz24
17-11-2006, 01:22 PM
Hi again, thanks for the further info, much appreciated. I'll have a go at bypassing the stat. I tried this once before on a fridge. I used an allen key tapped to a wooden spoon just to be safe. Luckily I did this as whatever I shorted out was live, made a massive flash and melted my allen key.

Could someone give me a tip on how to bypass the stat without killing myself please?

Thanks again
Chedz :)
chedxz

Do not under any circumstances work on the fridge live. Get access to the plug and pull it out to isolate, don't even trust the switch. Unplug the fridge first.
If the frezer is working but the fridge is not then it indicates somthing other than the stat. Ensure the fridge freezer has only one stat controling it. If it has only one stat and the freezer is working then the stat is ok. That then points to either the comp not pumping correctly or the gas charge being wrong.

Personaly I think you need to get someone to look at it.

Cheers taz

chedz
17-11-2006, 05:14 PM
thanks for the warning, i'd like to isolate the fault as best I can before calling for backup, I'd hate to pay a fortune for someone to come and change the stat when I can do this myself.

Regarding the stat, if the stat was ok, wouldn't the warm fridge result in the cooling being permanently on and the freezer being very cold indeed, -11 doesn't sound that cold to me.

If someone can advise how to bypass the stat I'll give it a go, if that doesn't prove anything I'll call in an expert.

Cheers

Chedz.

my tea tastes funny....oh...the milks off again :(

edit: forgot to say, I won't hold anyone responsible if I fry myself. I promise to be careful.

chedz
21-11-2006, 12:49 PM
anyone able to either:

1. explain briefly how to bypass the stat.
2. suggest where to get a new stat: Whirlpool 5031684765157

Thanks a lot

Chedz
:D

taz24
21-11-2006, 02:16 PM
Regarding the stat, if the stat was ok, wouldn't the warm fridge result in the cooling being permanently on and the freezer being very cold indeed, -11 doesn't sound that cold to me.

If someone can advise how to bypass the stat I'll give it a go, if that doesn't prove anything I'll call in an expert.

Cheers

Chedz.

.


I do not think the stat is faulty. If the thing is running and the frezzer is only at -11 then you have other problems.

They could be

1 A faulty comp that is not pumping correctly.
2 A partial blockage in the system that is not alowing enough refrigerant to flow round the system
3 A refrigerant leak that has caused some of the gas to escape and therfor there is not enough gas left.
All of those faults unfortunatly need the attention of somone with the right tools and equipment to check your fridge.

Cheers taz.

Electrocoolman
21-11-2006, 06:55 PM
Is there a FAST FREEZE switch on the freezer? That should run compressor and lower temperatures. Is thermostat set to coldest ....Number 7 not number 1.

chedz
23-11-2006, 04:44 PM
I kinda ignored the advice above and went ahead and fitted a new stat, it now works perfectly. I compared the performance of the old and new stats, the old one did switch at the right temp, but compared to the new one it wasn't a clean contact, still reading 440ohms. somehow this must have been effecting the running of the comp...perhaps....what do I know.
Thanks for the help, I'm off for a nice cold glass of milk now.
cheers
Chedz


(unqualified Refrigeration Engineer - 100% sucess rate on fixes though :) )
Unqual

taz24
23-11-2006, 09:20 PM
what do I know.
Thanks for the help, I'm off for a nice cold glass of milk now.
cheers
Chedz


(unqualified Refrigeration Engineer - 100% sucess rate on fixes though :) )
Unqual


What do we all know eh?:)
Good news that you got it going and hopfuly at a reasonable price:)

Cheers taz.

chillin out
24-11-2006, 01:18 AM
A bad connection would cause the compressor to take exess current and cut out on overload.

Glad you got it sorted though, thats the main thing.

Chillin:) :)

scooter
12-05-2007, 09:18 AM
Hi, I have the Diplomat AMPM6518. It is recently hovering around 8-10 degrees. Sometimes though it can dip to 3-4 degrees.

I have the thermostat set on 7 (max) and overnight recently it doesn't seem to be cooling from around 8 degrees.

Can anyone tell me:

1. What the fault is likely to be?

2. How to fix it?

I am a novice when it comes to fridges so instructions on how to access relevant parts would be handy. Many thanks.

Electrocoolman
12-05-2007, 12:25 PM
Scooter.....cannot find APM6518....only APM6528. Whats the 12 digit code number (starting 85....)

Is this a Fridge or a Fridge Freezer? Is it supposed to be Frost Free with circulated air (a fan)?

Need more info

scooter
12-05-2007, 01:35 PM
It might be quite old. Its a built in fridge. There's no number beginning with 85. It's an APM6518 Type: HTI2121 Art No: 5954442. Its bascially got a freezer box at the top and fridge. Its a compressor type fridge...And it was made in Slovenia not China which must mean its old. It was in the house when we moved in last year.

Electrocoolman
12-05-2007, 01:59 PM
Hi Scooter, my info is not showing any model with that info. As its 'built in' my first thought would be to pull it out and check all the ventilation holes are clear. If unit can't get rid of heat, the compressor might be overheating.

When unit is pulled out, check to see if compressor runs for long periods or cycles on/off frequently. Is compressor quiet or noisy?

Have you defrosted the icebox? Fridge won't get properly cold with a thick layer of ice on ice box.

When you've finished defrosting, switch unit back on and close door....after 15 mins or so check the 'frost line' on the evaporator/icebox. The 'lines' on the icebox are 'tubes' thru' which the refrigerant flows...by running your finger along the tube you should reach a point where the frost stops. The frost line should reach along most of the pipe. If its only short and doesnt get longer with time then the system is probably short of refrigerant.

scooter
05-06-2007, 09:04 PM
Hi, I've now pulled out and checked everything. The compressor works but seems to be unreliable. Sometimes the fridge is at almost zero (ice in yoghurt stuff), other times it's hovering around the dangerous 10 degree mark. Turning the thermostat on and off seems to activate the compressor. Does this mean my Thermostat is buggered and how and where would I go about replacing?

cableguy
13-06-2007, 02:24 PM
Hi Chedz, i have the same prob. with my diplomat apm 6842, freezer perfect/fridge sitting at minus 10 deg.celcius/beers not cold enough/i found that the air flow is not sufficient, so i have cleared the obstruction, but it is still the same/fridge/freezer 3.5 yrs. old maybe i should get a new stat like you did! was it easy to fit in place??
I kinda ignored the advice above and went ahead and fitted a new stat, it now works perfectly. I compared the performance of the old and new stats, the old one did switch at the right temp, but compared to the new one it wasn't a clean contact, still reading 440ohms. somehow this must have been effecting the running of the comp...perhaps....what do I know.
Thanks for the help, I'm off for a nice cold glass of milk now.
cheers
Chedz


(unqualified Refrigeration Engineer - 100% sucess rate on fixes though :) )
Unqual

Nick1313
08-01-2008, 01:19 AM
Hi mate could you do me a big favour? I changed the stat on my f/f but while the stat was on the table my son felt he was helping and pulled the wires out of the plastic block which plugs into the stat, could you please take a look at yours and tell me which colour wire goes to what. Cheers mate Nick

Steve-T
14-01-2008, 11:36 PM
The alarm on my built-in Diplomat APM6528 keeps alarming :-

1) The door seals are working fine.

2) There is no obstruction of air-flow underneath, behind or above the unit.

3) The freezer works and is not full of ice + the door shuts.

4) Ice forms and then melts on the rear inside plate, as it always has done.

5) Its currently set at 4 degrees and is operating at 4 degrees, though this does go up a bit to 6 or 8 degrees. But the alarm sounds at 4 degrees.

6) Its not over or under full

7) The meat chiller compartment is fitted and is switched on at the control panel.

8) Its 2 and bit years old, having replace the previous one which failed - can't remember why.

Could the sensor be faulty and is there any way of testing it.

Any other advice welcomed. I have been adviced to have it re-gassed. Is this viable, can it be done on site and is it more cost effective than paying out for a new fridge.

Many thanks,

Steve

nike123
15-01-2008, 04:20 AM
How you measured your temperatures?

Steve-T
15-01-2008, 07:10 PM
I'm using a Brannan stand alone fridge thermometer. It has just measured 2 degrees c in the chiller box.

nike123
15-01-2008, 10:45 PM
What temperature is in the freezer?

Steve-T
17-01-2008, 12:55 AM
The freezer is at -20 degrees

nike123
17-01-2008, 01:58 AM
I am not familiar with these fridges, but I presume that alarm is triggered by faulty alarm sensor or alarm thermostat or relay which drives alarm. But I also may be wrong.

Based on your temperature readings fridge doing his job and re-gassing isn't needed.

Gerry36
12-06-2008, 10:59 AM
Hi I have a 6528 with the same problem, alarming all thetime, I have had the electronic module changed, still the same, The unit is insured with DOM/GEM they are now saying there is nothing more they can do, so the fridge must be replaced,but as its over 5 yrs I will have to pay most of costs, the fridge is working perfectly, temps are spot on, is there another senser for the alarm, other than the one for the fridge temp

joescotland
13-01-2010, 03:00 PM
hi
how do I replace the stat on my Diplomat APM6842? I can't see where where I can disconnect it.
Thanks

dan_karen
01-07-2010, 09:35 PM
Hi I am having a similar problem with the same model but view my problem as worse than others because my beer is just not cold enough.

Symptoms, Freezer is OK about -18, compressor appears fine with adequate ventilation yet fridge seems to work one minute and not the next, the coldest temperature I seem to achieve is about +7, yes +7 not an acceptable temperature for beer.

Today I followed advice from this thread and tested the thermostat which is opening and closing the circuit but I am not convinced this is happening at the right temperature. Is it fair to say the thermostat can work one minute and not the next and if faulty will not necessarily cool the fridge enough as it may close the circuit at the wrong temperature, or if the stat is faulty should I also be see symptoms in the freezer which for me is all OK?

Thanks in advance to anyone who offers advice.
Dan

badtoad66
18-11-2010, 02:18 AM
I too am experiencing the similar / same symptoms with my APM6842 and would like to bypass the thermostat to rule it out and would ask if anyone could tell me how to go about this and which wires to bridge etc in order to do it. I have stripped the stat out and tested it in open air at 20 degrees and then placed it in the freezer to see if there is a change in the switching which resulted in no change. Prior to removal the fridge was at about 9 degrees and i could here the stat click when it passed number 6 on the dial. Your thoughts please.